Mopar1973Man

For the friend yes because I get free freight on parts from the local part store.

My daily problems...

I'd love to have on in my truck just a 5 speed version.

If both batteries are disconnected you must recalibrate the APPS.

Wash it out with water... (Please don't do this it will do damage to a diesel... Just trying to be a bit funny)

Also congrads on 1k posts... But as for stop and go travel I usually look for routes that reduce the amount of stop and go. Even if you can shave off 2-3 stops but add maybe 1 mile you'll still come out ahead. As for hills you'll find that backing off and using 1 gear down typically will gain you slightly more MPG's. Like I know I can climb most all 6-7% grades in 5th no problem but drop to 53 MPH and climb in 4th I normally gain about 1-2 MPG over staying in 5th. I use the feedback from the ScanGauge and the EGT's for gearing choice. So if I can climb the same grade at the same speed but 4th (1:1 ratio) is 150-200*F cooler in EGT's typically the MPG are just slightly better. Kind of like riding a bicycle. Yo can ride a bicycle in top gear on flat ground but still climbing a small hill you feel the amount of power you must put out to continue. Same holds true for the truck if you can slow slightly and grab a gear down the load is lessen and MPG's improve typically.

Rather odd just gave them a call as well and it only a BLM restriction along the US95 area from New Meadows toward Grangeville. It not a USFS yet. The gent I talk said this coming week it might change again dues the dryness in the area. But he did mention the Yes Payette USFS did post the sign and yes the fire restriction are imposed current in my area. (Zone 4). Give it time it will change again. As far as I can say even my Fire Chief is held to the Stage II restrictions as well.

Might check again Payette has the No Fires LED sign up in Payette forest with the sandwich board there too. Right at the top of smokey Boulder Mile post 171 roughly. Nez isn't till Pinehurst.

Different issue. Low freon is at the other side of the spectrum. As freon pressures drop on the lo side the the temperature continues to drop below freezing point which the lo side switch cut off the compressor. The lo side switch is designed to prevent freeze up of the evaporator. So you need to add freon to bring the lo side pressure above 30 PSI typically charge to 35-40 PSI to get a solid locked compressor and a system that is sweating. Typically with lo freon you'll also see low hi side pressures as well like 100-120 PSI which isn't enough pressure to work the orifice tube. About 200-250 PSI is about optimal for our trucks depending on temperatures of course. But to be bumping the high side switch is because you heated all the freon above normal like in my case in a hot shop, door closed and hot engine warming everything up. Then start the truck and have a unlocked fan and pumping freon till it overheats and no longer can stay with hi side limits and start venting. (>450 PSI).

What coolant temps are you running? How about boost and EGT's?

Now you understand the feedback I use to gaining MPG's. Now if you set up the Scangauge II to display MPG, current MPG for the day and Current MPG for the tank then you can see the effects in all worlds. Also toss IAT up and watch the effects of IAT vs. MPG.

Correction. Need to see above 1000*F to burn carbon off.

I just ran into this problem but I'm pretty sure I know what happen in my case. What had happened was I made a trip to town and put my truck back in the shop and closed the door. Wasn't but a short time later I get a call to do firewood hauling. I pulled the truck out and set the A/C for MAX A/C and proceeded on hitching up the trailer. I start noticing the compressor pulling really hard on the engine and cycling rapidly. Thought that was odd I got back in the truck the vents were blow warm air. Compressor still cycling. Then I head the compressor struggle and then started venting freon. I knew then what was going on I shut down the A/C and left it off till I was rolling. I did open the hood and look and the fan was FULLY UNLOCK and barely turning. So what has happen the freon was preheated and pressure were to high and kicking out on the high side pressures till it got so high it was venting to protect the system (around 450 PSI). After I was on my way and got coolant up to temp and the fan was partial locked now the A/C worked just fine the rest of the day. So now experiencing this and seeing post in the past about warm A/C at stops I wonder if the fan is not properly locking and keeping air moving and the high side is shutting it down. Another possible occurrence is using Quickie Can with the hose included those typically have a oil charge with them and it possible to over charge with too much oil causing that problem. I've seen where condenser coils are so packed with bugs that air doesn't flow and freon temperatures and pressure sky rocket. Like today I took the time and fired up the pressure washer and slowly worked my way across the condenser, intercooler and radiator being careful not to get to close to the coolers.Today again it reached a 100*F here at my house. So keeping radiators, intercoolers and condensers cleaned is priority. So if your fan clutch is not locking properly to keep air flow moving the condenser will for sure get too hot and drive the high side pressure to trip the high side switch. So think air flow when the A/C is getting warm at stops.

Check this out rather cool.

This picture might be listed as a bit border lined... Click show button to see...

No joke. Pun intended...

Ummm... You might want to read... http://www.autoblog.com/2009/12/28/coolant-color/

Welcome to the family Vini. As for the signature... Upper right corner of the screen is your user name "vini" now click on it. A menu will popup. Select Settings. Now on the left side should be Signature. Click and fill it in. As for 6.7L help talk to AH64ID or Wild & Free they are both good 6.7L tech on the site. As for asking question ask lots of question and be afraid of being a bother. That's what we are here for to help other people learn about their trucks. Again Welcome to the Family!

Talk about getting 4 cords of firewood in under 3 hours. I delivered 2 cords to a good friend down the road and bought 2 cords for myself. So I've got a great guy in New Meadows named Mike Dezey. He has his own logging business. So when there is a damaged log than isn't going to accepted by the mill he cuts the damaged chunk out and hauls this stuff home. Then turns around and sell red fir for $100 a cord or $200 for my trailer load. Spurce is $80 a cord. But with Stage II fire restriction this is a awesome option but even his pile is running out.

Hmmm. The thing is checks are out of date. Like I'm also converted over to all electronic means of payment as well. The problem is hackers going after large name brand stores more so. Like I've had my debt card hot swapped twice now. Because of the fact I had used it in different stores like Home Depot and WalMart. Even if I used a credit card still in the same boat. So I stick mostly to using the debt card for bill payment with the phone company and other things like this. So far I've never had a single issue with PayPal or my debt card usage paying the bills. So if you created a donation page on your site and linked Paypal to that page then you have a means of collection. Then you'll have to bind the Paypal to bank account preferably separate from the actual operational account (if your worried). Like M73M has it own account and Paypal is bound to it. So transferring fund back and forth can occur. Typical 3 days to transfer fund either way. In the past I was doing the long and hard way issuing a check, actually travelling to the bank to deposit the fund, then writing out the check and mailing. Pay for the fuel to travel 40 miles to deposit the check, then pay for the checks to be produced, etc. Way to much involvement with to many hands to lose the funds or be late with payments. As for checks they found ways to ink wash a check and re-write it out for thieves own purpose. So is a check safer?

From what I can find it a cruise control error always high. P0577 1T: Cruise Control Switch Signal High Input http://engine-codes.com/p0577.html

Vais01 do you happen to have a full listing of those codes? Maybe be worth publishing in the article database for others to see.

In the winter time when I was working at my fire station on vehicles I would drive away from the house another 5-10 miles to turn around come back home. This provided two things... One a good charge on the batteries because once the engine temp came up the batteries charge better. Also getting the engine to full operational temperature.

So I guess its time for other to go out and ask other members "What's up?" and see about coming back. I know some folks have sold there trucks or having other family issues.

Hate to say it but way better diagnostic tool that ScanGauge II. http://www.obdlink.com/ But ScanGauge II is a way better trip computer. Here is my old post... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9895-obdlink-lx-and-android-tablet/