Mopar1973Man

When you return you better look into resolving it correctly this still only a band-aid fix to the bigger problem.

Small problem with any bleeder system. Where do you think all the heavy debris goes to while bleeding the brakes? It drops to the bottom of the calipers. What happens next is the debris will start to wedge up the calipers and start the binding issues. So flushing or bleeding the system is only half of the project. I would still take all 4 calipers off open them up, wash them out, and reassemble each one. Like I'm due also for brake fluid change myself. Another way you could do the bleeding job is to pull all 4 calipers. Then squeeze all 8 caliper pistons back in with the bleeder screw open. Allow the system to drain by pull the hose free from one front and one rear caliper. With the hose disconnected the debris can't enter the calipers. Then close all the bleeders. Reload the system and bleed the system out. All brake fluid should be changed every 30k miles.

How about this... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/78-brake-fluid-change

Was the truck test drove with the alternator disconnected? As for new alternators the do fail out of the box. I've seen 4 in a row fail out of the box. It's also possible for a diode to lose a good solder joint and intermittently surge AC noise. As for APPS shift mods (filters) it still suggest against them. They truck ran for over 12 years without it. It means there is something failed still and adding a module or filter is a bandaid cover up. As for the error code you creating a short to ground or a short to 5V basically creating the error code (P0122 or P0123) so if the APPS signal is within span then no codes.

I still say skip the ATS bandaid. 99.9% of the time it's still the alternator.

Yesterday afternoon we lost power so I was helping a friend install gauges in his truck. So when the power went out I rushed home to shutdown the A/C and water heater. On my way back down to my friends place I was thinking I bet the fire tones go off. So I tell my friend that its going to happen sure enough the tones go out for a power line fire. I'm less than a 1/4 mile ride with my ATV to the fire station. Off and running. I picked up Engine 11 and proceeded to the fire. Long story short my quick actions of getting there first and knocking down the fire kept it down to about 1 acre. USFS was highly impressed. Then I get home there is still no power but the inverter is functional so I hop in and get a shower I'm cover with soot and ash. So I was invited to the Chief's house last night to to have a get together. So stayed till about 11pm. I roll home and my neighbor is super bright. (Not!) We are in a Stage I fire restriction where no open fires are permitted. He's got a bonfire burning. There is no telephone service, no power, and no way to contact 911. Really bright. I lay down to go to bed and then they start shooting off fireworks. (Freaking really smart now). Nothing I can do... Crawl out of bed this morning 6am to "Diesel" stuffing his beak in my face. Ok. So crawl out of bed and sit in front of the computer. Barely get 2 cups of coffee down and "Page Tones go off again. This time a house fire. So I run down stairs and get dressed and grab my radio. Off and running to Station 1 to grab engine 11. Again I manage to be first on scene again. Fire was knock out by some Indians that where firing in the river across the road. Needless to say I called off all other crews and waited for the Fire Chief to show. I watched and carefully inspecting the wall where the outlet blew out and started the fire. We are very thankful for the Indians that did rush over and put the fire out. So we spent another 3 hours carefully inspecting the wall, attic, and crawl space for fire or embers. So sad to say I'm exhaust... I hope the radio stay quiet but I doubt it. Some will be stupid this weekend. (Engine 11)

Injector o-rings or front seal on the VP44 are your 2 sources for fuel leaks. There is one other which is a bad injector(s) that are stuck open. Just like a CR engine if stuck open it won't change much other than make it hard starting. The bad injector will blow fuel spray on the cylinder walls instead of the piston bowl .

I'm currently running with my BRAKE and ABS lights on. I know my front sensors are bad and need replacing. As for you Hex you issue is going to be a rear sensor being your speedometer.

Cowboy stopped posting about it in the spring. Cowboy is the one that was gathering the group up and getting the chat going. So no there has been any chatroom activity in about 2-3 months now. If you want to start it you can...

Nothing to hide... I'm 44 years old (October 26, 1970).

Might find one in the FSM. IIRC.

Shiny snail... How about the engine? I seen a lot of part pictures how about pictures with the parts assembling? (Yes I'm picking on you!)

Talk to Cowboy he's the one in charge of chat nights.

Absolutely!

Oh feel the love being tossed around here.

Here is my setup with 3" exhaust and NAPA muffler. Notice the cab is really quiet and the note is way different. No drone.

Cool. Might be a winter time project.

About a one hour job to run though the seals on the lines. But if they are not leaking don't mess with them. You might grab a UV light and look over the system quickly looking for UV dye. If the low side port is leaking a cap will not stop the leak. I've been lucky a few times to cycle my lo side hose on and off the fitting a few times and get it to seal again. If not then that hose will have to be replaced.

Would some be kind enough to create an article of this information for the different generations of trucks?

One day I'll have to the valve seals in my beast that doesn't look too hard to do. Curious who's valve spring tool is that it not Torky Tekonologies.

If the key doesn't move with finger pressure then it should be fine. But if it does move your best to super glue the key in place. I've had them spin up on me and block the shaft from going in. Then careful pull it back out to re-seat the key with glue. Make sure the arrow is pointing towards the pump.

Like one gent called me with a CCD network issue I told him to cycle all the plugs and magically it all went away. So maybe the same thing is true.

AirBag system has a problem. The computer will only reset the issue after the repair has been made. It might just be a bad connection. Go over all the airbag wiring and double check all connections. DANGER! Make sure to do this while the battery is disconnected. Also make sure to disconnect the battery and leave alone for at least 10-15 minutes before starting work. I would hate to see you get injured by deploying a airbag by accident.

Yesterday getting ready for the 4th of July Fireworks fires... My new Engine 11 Ford 7.3L Diesel.

Your title states... So I've been looking at ways of improving your MPG's being that is the subject title. If it was change to "Water/Meth Injection for Better Power" you would get a change of answers instantly. But I've been designing my answers to fit the MPG angle that the title suggest and making power a secondary category. But never mind... I'm backing down...