Mopar1973Man

$1000 dollars is a lot of cash to toss down a turbo that may break your tune. So very common for people to upgrade turbos and not have the right combo of fuel. Then turns the truck into a smokey bomb that is nearly impossible to drive the city. I'd love to upgrade again my limits are because of the exhaust brake mounts to the back of the turbo.

Fuel contamination? Wrong oil used? I'd consider changing again yourself. I know it not cheap to dump 3 gallons of oil out. But the insurance is priceless. If it's fuel contamination you should smell diesel fuel in the oil. Most likely a injector issue if so. So you would have to resolve the injector(s) issue first. Very rare have I heard of engine oil entering the power steering pump and visa versa. This is why I asked about the P/S fluid and its color. It might be pushing oil into the P/S pump but I'm not sure how?

MAX A/C, A/C , Bilevel, Floor-DEF and DEF are all A/C modes. Floor and Vent are NOT A/C modes. Overheating... Cooling system is rather simple. Drain and pull the radiator. Look at the face of the radiator. Is it it all plugged up with oil and grime? (Crankcase vent issue). With radiator drained out looking into the tanks of the radiator is the core tube all corroded up with scale? (Coolant failure) Pull your thermostat and replace. Use either a Cummins (high dollar) or NAPA thermostats. Keep the 190*F. Do not use a 180*F.

Smaller tires do help quite a bit in steering and handling. Also reduce the amount of wear and fatigue on steering parts.

If the fluid is black then its oil pressure getting into the Power Steering system. If the fluid is normal honey color then the power steering fluid might be just old needing changed.

Typically I run the engine for short spans of time to flush the steering gear box and the hydro boost out of old fluid. But I normally pull the line from the back of the power steering pump and cap the pump nipple to keep fluid in the pump. Then route the return line to a waste bucket. Fire up the engine. Then while it running I bump the steering wheel left to right to open the power valve. This only takes a few seconds to pump out. So shut down will happen rather fast. Then reload and tab the brakes on the next run this flushes the hydro boost out. The I hook back up the return line and re-fill. Typically cost about 3-4 quarts of fluid to get it flushed out.

Added the pic for ya...

??? I'll have to look at which hose I'm pulling off my pump but I always got flow of fluid start starting the engine. I'm due to change mine so I could get out there and get it done...

I would of done the diagnostic when it occurred it might be a intermittent correction issue or broken wire. So now you got to wait again till it occurs again.

Last time I ordered a vacuum pump rebuild it was $13 buck at Cummins. Just remember the 12V tappet cover will not have the bracket for the ECM to hang. Catch Can for crankcase vent? I would skip that personally. 12V tappet covers don't really slobber much at all. Even my 24V crankcase tube barely slobbers.

That's sucks...

I've always just pulled the line at the power steering pump and cap the nipple. Then routed that hose to a waste bucket. Then flushed the system.

Like mine are the same way and clean them up with Scotchbrite pads being its only plastic your not going to cut into the metal. Just make sure to rinse off the debris before installing.

I running a 3 micron on the AirDog 150 and a 10 micron in the stock can. Still holding 15-17 PSI fuel pressure with no issues even in the dead of winter.

I've seen several of them seize the fan clutch be locked 24/7 like that.

So what's the downside to the changing the compressor wheel and machine work?

My beast it weighs in about 8,000 pounds but 31 foot long. So far in all the travel I've done with it here in the state. I typically set the cruise for 55-60 MPH and vary between 11-14 MPG. Typically when I'm hitch to the RV I'm in no hurry at all. So climbing grades typically I back down to 3rd gear. I've done a few time pushing hard in 4th and barely keep it around 1,100*F over 7% grades. But I'm in a no hurry mode with the RV so speeds are typically like I said 55-60 MPH. My last trip to St. Maries Idaho I varied 11-13 MPG. Being the first day I was in winds most of the day heading north. Then 2nd day it was milder and calmer. But mostly twisty highways and tight corners pulled 13 MPG. 3rd day leg home I kick the cruise for 60 MPH and climbed the last leg home at barely 11 MPG. There is also the ST tire factor also water factor. Most all ST tires are only rated to 65 MPH also my water tank 50 gallons is at the very rear of the trailer so a full water tank typically adds a bit of wag to the tail for me. Again I'm in no hurry. EDIT... GCW is ~16,800 pounds.

Run through the erase code diagnostics.

I really do love my quiet 3" pipe now. Totally drone free and got a gnarly turbo spool noise now. It just sounds wicked. Like my trip I just got home from going to St. Maries and back. very enjoyable time towing the RV. No drone. No excessive noise. Good exhaust brake function. Good MPG's... and just plain ol' Good Power! I'll admit pulling Whitebird grade and Lewiston grade both in 3rd gear and about 30-35 MPH. I wasn't in any hurry nor did I want to run 1,200*F on the pyrometer up the grades. In 3rd it pull easy and stay much cooler like 900-1000*F. If I was in a hurry I could of grabbed 4th and push the pyro the whole way up and pulled 45-50 MPH. Even running 3rd Gear I was still passing OTR trucks heading up the grades. But the ol' HX35W with the exhaust brake and my fuel management setup has be wonderful. Still having issues with tires breaking loose 2nd and 3rd gear if I'm too heavy on the throttle even towing the RV.

Little Chinese Wire Hose clamp about 3/4" diameter and one mile of travel. Turbo destroyed... So when I went shopping for turbos and trying to find turbos that worked with my existing exhaust brake there was nothing. I was constantly turned away from upgrading from all the vendors. So I spent a little over $800 to have the existing turbo, cleaned up, rebuilt, and spun balanced by Industrial Injection (Via GOS Performance).

I can't replace it with anything else because of the exhaust brake. But yes I ate a turbo a while back with a hose clamp.

Depends... I would do some study work with fuel logging or to use a tool like ScanGauge II or UltraGauge to get MPG readings to so you can base your tuning on live numbers.

Like even my old school rig won't trigger full lock of the fan till at least 210*F. I do know that its partially locked at temps above 190*F. So I would still suggest changing theromstat first and trying again and see what happens.

At least you got it resolved. Like said above pay it forward to keep good karma going.

Like on my trip I adjusted my Edge Comp down from 5x3 to 5x2 to control smoke. It was nearly smokeless travelling. While towing I was averaging between 11-13 MPG between days with head winds and climbing 7% grades and calmer days with flat ground.