Mopar1973Man

I might be over stepping my authority but I'll say there is a few board members attempting to create a core part program for the members on the site.

Here is what I found... Personally I would step down one more to 235/85 R16 and then you right on again. http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-calculator/

If the speedometer quit then your rear sensor quit. Appearance is meaningless. What matters that the sensor can produce a proper AC sine wave that ABS computer can use also that the 3 sensors all have the same frequency. If on is different that means that one is tripping the light and needs replacing. ABS system requires all sensors to match in frequency.

KFC seasonings... A little something I found on the internet and I've modified my version a bit from this design. 2 tablespoons paprika 1 tablespoon onion salt 1 teaspoon celery salt 1 teaspoon rubbed sage 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon ground allspice 1 teaspoon ground oregano 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon basil leaves, crushed 1 teaspoon marjoram leaves, crushed finely Directions Combine all ingredients as listed in a small jar with a tight fitting lid (baby food jars work good). Shake mixture to combine. Stores for months. Keep out of direct sunlight, heat and humidity. I personally season my chicken directly with this mixture. Taste really good!

Better off upgrading to a HX35W turbo then using the boost elbow on the HX35W turbo. Your Upgrading from 9cm2 to 12cm2 exhaust housing and better EGT control. As for the VP44 I have a hard time buying a VP44 for less than $1000.00 typically there is some sort of hidden issue like warranties, it wasn't rebuilt at all, maybe rebuilt but never calibrated and re-used a old PSG unit. As for the part number I'm not sure at all.

System isolation. If the field wiring and the charge lead is disconnected there should be near zero or zero AC noise. Normal alternator is 0.01 to 0.02 Volts AC Marginal alternator is 0.05 to 0.09 AC Volts FAILED alternator is any voltage above 0.1 AC Volts.

Here you go...I ran these on the truck for 2 years and about 35k miles.

Scale your axles loaded with the RV. Like my front axle is about same with the RV. So I can keep the same pressures empty or loaded. So this is a good reason to check axle weight empty and loaded then you can math out what you need for tire pressures.

After 5 years the scrubbing has wore the rear tires down. So that why I'm going to replace mine. But I don't buy into the requirement of having to have Maxxis or LT tires for a trailer tires. Like my RV is 15 years old and never seen a blowout during the prevent owner nor myself.

Not I... RV is running on TowMax ST's and the Utility Trailer is runnning on Maxxon ST's.

Here is the article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues

More information http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Meadows,_Idaho

I would attempt to mount that compressor some where dry and low dust levels. Sure would suck to ruin a compressor drowning it with lots of road water or lots of dust to ruin the piston.

My last set of Load Range G's were a speed rating of Q (100 MPH) and yes they where ST tires. http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/VOMA/SOLID-TRAC-RADIAL-A-S-TRAILER/23024

Trade sensor with someone else first before buying a $100 dollar sensor. At least verify the sensor is truly the cause and not a bad TST box or wiring issue. Cleaning the sensor will do NOTHING. 0% of all MAP sensors that have clean have ever fix any issues.

Like my TowMax ST tires (Loard range D's) on my RV are 5 years old now. Coming due for replacement. Then my BigTex trailer is 2 years old with Maxxon ST tires (load Range C's) as well. No issues with either trailer and limit road speeds well below the 65 MPH limit of ST tires. If you trading up for LT tires watch the specs closely. You might gain on the speed angle but lose on the weight capacity also side wall strength.

Yes. Make sure the Edge Comp is unplugged before flashing. This just ensures there is nothing to goof up the flash process.

Here is a example of how crowded. Went to Council, ID to take care personally stuff. Drove along at 55 MPH and ended up behind a semi and two other vehicles driving slow because it just snowed few hours before. Roads are just wet. But from my house to Council, ID in 1 hour exactly for 52 miles. Then got done there and turned around and went to Grangeville, ID and taken care of more up there. Idaho county is the largest county of Idaho State and it only got 1 traffic light in the entire county. Crowded??? Where? Go to a large city like Boise, ID and you'll see crowded.

Join the club but I found that excessive pressure in the front promotes the wondering issues. Like scaled weight is 4,400 in the front. 4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57.8 (58 PSI). The only change I've done is drop 5 PSI from the math to 53 PSI.

Still say you've done a good job restoring the body paint to a good level of appearance for a rattle can.

Not bad at all for what I see on my monitor.

The best solvent that I was told for peeling all that baked on carbon and junk is Carb Dip. Just make sure to remove all rubber part before dipping.

Now try doing the tire pressures like Wild and Free suggested it will change the way it runs too. Shocking but true.

What year of truck you want? I might just have what you want...

Where I'm at there is so little traffic till summer time then it gets a little busy but still not bad. Hard to get crowded when you have to either live on the benches of the canyon bottom above flood level or find a way to built at the top of the canyon and plow your own roads in and out.