Mopar1973Man

Mighty Whitety is going through the "Terrible Two's"

Hmm... For the Linux Boys out there I just found a free CANBUS sniffer program. http://www.canhack.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=817&sid=f43c48e2719f09e496e87b29c172ea75

Here give you a feel for what you can do... http://theksmith.com/software/hack-vehicle-bus-cheap-easy-part-1/ http://theksmith.com/software/hack-vehicle-bus-cheap-easy-part-2/

Heck I'm already planing on putting fresh rubber on the RV so I can go traveling this summer. MoparMom and I already have a plan at some point to head east into Montana and Wyoming for a trip. If you happen to be in the travel path I might just have to pull in camp a night.

Consider your reason for conversion. If you building this engine for drag racing then P7100 pump is ultimate way to go. But for daily driver I still suggest keeping the Vp44. As for conversion there is possibly a lot of options you'll lose from doing a conversion. (Dodge Truck Body). Remember this may impact your diagnostic abilities of the engine. But if converting to to a Ford or Chevy body then this will simply the install of the engine. Basically need to yank the front of the engine off. New gear case, new cam with 12V fuel pump lobe, 12V lift pump, P7100 pump, conversion injection lines, re-pop the injectors for the p7100 pump, all the throttle linkage and few other oddball things. Like I tell most people it's like ripping off a perfectly good high MPG electronic fuel injection system to install inefficient carburetor on a engine. For drag racing most still go back to carburetors but electronic injection is still far better efficiency than carburetors.

Just right. 14-20 PSI of fuel pressure under normal road load conditions. Should be 7-12 PSI while cranking/starting. Time to pack up and run from that shop because he's clueless. Because the ECM, PCM and VP44 do not get grounds from the body or frame but directly from the battery cable themselves.

Means the data from the ABS computer is being lost or erred while traveling from the ABS computer to the instrument cluster. All ABS modules should be flashed for tire size for speedometer calibration. But in your case withe the bouncing I'm really puzzled not knowing is it the speed sensor or wiring before the ABS. Or is it the ABS communication on the CCD network that is screwed up. Either way you going to need a dealer to look at the sensor and ABS module to be sure. As for the communication the dealer should be able check that with the DRBIII tool.

If your not careful I might end up camping in your yard this summer.

I will validate that... It does turn the wood dark or black in color.

Heck... If I pull that much apart I would of replaced the darn clip.

Well you seen my wood deck. We've been using boil linseed oil and mineral spirits. Over time the wood has blackened but not rotting.

Some sort of data loss going on or CCD Network issues.

I tied mine to tight I can't get to my plug on my gauge. Thanks for the pic.

Yeah... I wasn't impressed. Great low end and then very flat up top. I rather have the UDC but not available for 24V. That's how I got my high idle flash was Bob Wagner sent me his programmer for about a week.

Personally I'm not a fan of the P7100 conversions. More or less like ripping electronic fuel injection off for a old school carburetor. Like the carburetor it was not as efficient as electronic fuel injection. Like the p7100 its very limited it tuning also it has zero timing advancement like VE or VP44 has.

I wish Smarty was that way for the 24V trucks. O.o

Ugh! That's expensive.

I used ground in my setup but it was bit difficult to get hooked up solid. Look closely at the instructions it will show it.

Curious too.

There is a write up for rebuilding the hydroboost. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

Heck I've got a 5/16" bit zipped tied to a 1/8" NPT pipe tap ready for pyrometer work.

Let's say I'm not huge gun buff nor do I want to be. The pistol I have was my Father's pistol he purchased years ago. I've got fair to good accuracy for self-defense. As for the concealing I could but I hate how uncomfortable it is. Being I've always got a fire radio hanging on my left hip a pistol hanging off the right hip kind of balances out my left to right weight. So as for getting into a different pistol, calibers and stopping power, etc. Out here if its animal and you gut shoot the animal most of the time the haul off to die elsewhere or just firing a round or two in the air typically is enough to make the animal change it's mind.

Here is a bit chart. So a 21/64 would be the closest bit to a R.

Dream on... No one want to drive to Idaho. Especially where I live in the middle of nowhere. Yes. It's true I walked away from the shop I was working with being I was having a disagreement with the shop owner. But I can do my own thing and run my own show. I've got plenty of people I can do work for.

Most here suggest Smarty programmer over Edge for CR Cummins trucks.