Mopar1973Man

The fact of creating enough heat to completely burn the fuel. Cold engines tend not to burn all the fuel completely leaving fuel to push past the rings or tar up on the valves. (Tom bet me too it!)

Nope. I run on riff raft roads up here all the time. That course stone that is really jagged. Only seen 1 flat from a stone. I run 99% in 2WD even in the winter time I rarely ever even use it.

As for me if I'm short tripping I will attempt to extend my driving time by driving past my stop to allow the engine to fully warm up.

The cooking of the PSG is mostly the alternator noise. I've only found a very small handful of people that actually seen the overheat code on the VP44.

Because on the 1998.5 and forward there is no cam lobe to drive pump. You'd have to change cams.

I'm curious of the changes you get...

Overflow valve is the fuel leaving the rotor as far as what I can figure out on the body ports.

LiveOak (and others) just hover over any dotted underlined word and it will tell you what the acronym is.

But the volume rates are much lower than most electric pumps. http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html I know ISX will argue this article.

Cowboy... I went ahead and sent a mass email of your last post here. So lets see how many people start looking at the chatroom.

Here is the pictures... PM sent To Moparfreak As for now I got the door adjusted back for now it now seals fine and no wind noise. But I would like to fix it correctly some day.

Yes. It a thermistor. But like my house system runs on the very same thing. It's got a temp sensor that monitors battery temperature and adjust battery voltage properly for the current battery temperature. This is one of the reasons I can get 10 years from standard lead acid batteries. It's even more critical for sealed batteries because if there are overcharged and become gassy the the moisture is lost and there is no way to maintain electrolytes. Here is a great example. Here is the Temp probe lead it sandwiched between the batteries. Here is actual voltage which is higher to compensate for the cold garage. Then here is the temperature adjusted voltage.

I'll get it fixed I'm sure. Just got to get rolling this morning and grab some wrenches and tweak the existing door enough to get seal. I'll do some calling around next week for a set of door hinges.

Here you go..

As for the K&N filter now let any Joe Schmoe wash that K&N filter 10 to 20 times and then do that test again I bet money that it fails hard core.

Ekk... you get cold Tom. Are you close to your 100*F offset from inside to outside?

I've got a engine hoist that might just do the trick. Yeah... I'll give that a shot in the morning.

The trick to the battle is to have proof of what you talking about. Find it from like Cummins or a manufacture. But to go to a forum fight without ammo is a lost cause... Now you just bickering and arguing with people. That goes back to the days of the 2 cycle oil theory. I remember studying for days hunting for facts and figures on that subject. You might have to do the same thing too.

I see lots of forestry roads but rare to get stuck. I'm not running over sized tires at all but 235/85 R16. I typically aim for a low budget AT tire like right now I've got HiFly's on. But again since I'm not running oversized tires I've not had most of the problems that owners with oversized tires typically do.

Well at this point and time I'll do the tweaking to at least get the door to seal again and keep the wind and snow from blowing in on me. Yes. It was like driving around with your door hanging open.

For as long as we both been on the Internet we both have seen our fill of "Class Act's" out there. Like on CF I've got a few people I've tossed into the Ignore bin because I'm tired of there mouth. As for the Admin site I'm just going to walk away because there really isn't anything there noteworthy about the site. Now and then there is a good tidbit. Other than that just idle chatter and b!otchin'. Like over on CompD there is another rude bunch at times too. Then hop over to the RV site I hang on too. (No offense...) There is bunch old farts that think they know everything. I think the only reason I don't get attack there is being a moderator. But I'm getting tired of the same old hum drum what's the best tow vehicle (Ford) and what the biggest 5th wheel I can put on a 1/2 ton truck. Seriously you can't fix stupid....

How hard was it to get the hinges off?

Alternator stays going with the grid heaters. With my truck running in 3 cylinder high idle and exhaust brake on it can actually roll coal every time the grid heaters hit. As for the external regulator remember you've now lost the battery temperature sensor that regulates battery voltage by temperature of the battery. So on a cold morning the cold temperature read by the sensor would increase charge voltage even more since cold batteries are resistant to charging. Then the same is true in the summer the battery temp sensor would turn down the charge voltage to prevent gassing the batteries with excessively high charge rate. This is why the old school regulator where given up on. Because the old school regulator based its charge rate on the temperature under the hood. So if you running with a winter front you might be charging to low. Then if the cold air blowing on the regulator it might be over charging a already warm battery.

The door on fast inspection looks good but the top hinge is pulled away from the body a bit. Looking closer at the bottom hinge its got a stop in it where the upper hinge doesn't that I can see of. Door appears to be forward slightly and outwards on top.

Absolutely.