Mopar1973Man

Welcome to the family. Make sure to ask plenty of questions. No dumb questions here and most people here will dig up any information you need. You should not get "Use the search function" or "Google it" for answers... So pull up a comfy chair, cup of hot coffee and get to reading. If anything you don't understand please ask!

During reloading with gear fluid I suggest you load the diff completely full till its running out. The find a large area and do several tight figure eights. Then check your level again. I typically load mine till the fluid runs out the hole slightly. Then checking fluids is really easy. Loosen the plug, tip, if fluid runs out its full, tighten.

Edge EZ have had issues with the circuit boards corroding and shorting out from water / moisture problems.

Ok... Good I just wanted to verify that fact. Way too many people just leave it sit and rev the engine up with a heavy foot. But now you also need to address the pressure fail. 3-5 PSI is more of a typical span of pressure fall. 8-10 PSI is rather scary. Like myself with winter weather I'm seeing 2-3 PSI drop in the cold.

Here is a little article I made up for electric fuel pressure gauges. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/458-electric-fuel-pressure-gauges

Oh my... Heavy amount of snow and now serious warm up. Bad Deal...

If is a belt pulley issue just pull the belt off and hand test each pulley you'll know if you found a bad bearing.

I have to ask is this 2,000 RPM's in neutral or actually rolling on the pavement?

I tend to agree I would park the truck till you can get at least 10 PSI on the highway. Now I would be looking at checking the power to the lift pump and be sure its a good 12V when the truck is running. Then check the Edge Juice fuel pressure sender against a mechanical gauge. Really common for electric gauge sender to get damaged from water hammer. Mechanical gauge at this point would be your friend. If the pump is still running and not producing then I would replace it under warranty.

Now we are putting faces to the names now.

I typically grab a pair of vise grip needle nose clamp off the supply hose. Then when done just release. Then bump the starter and re-prime the system. Nothing fancy.

Bad diode? Check you AC noise levels just for the sake of tracking it down.

Like YabbaDoo pointed out there are more than just Guys here there are a few ladies too. Like YabbaDoo and BluePine are the two ladies I can think of right now.

That was cool that you all got together...

Not voltage but the IVS has to be ground on the idle pin.

Works on auto and manuals transmissions just fine. Remote starter doesn't hook to the IAT or ECT sensors. It doesn't press the brake pedal nor the throttle. So I also call BS on the dealer. You need to find a dealer that is more intelligent.

This is what's bad... People start doing the swapping of parts and never exactly know what had failed or failing and continue to install parts till its fixed. This is a very expensive method of repair. I'd rather invest money in a few tools and bench test properly and know without a doubt what has failed and deal with it properly than guessin'.

I've used that before. Not bad but not chemical resistant. I had a old 51 Willy Jeep I painted under the hood and the floor board with that liner it did OK but spill brake fluid, fuel or oil on it and it tends to peel up.

Ordered? Ok so what did you pay for it? From who did you order it?

Hmmm... I might have to get my tripod out and do a bit of video with the camera tomorrow or the next day.

I've updated the article to provide link back to these post and the photo of the blown diode pack.

3 cylinder mode is done by telling the ECM not to fire. So the electrical pulse is not present. So the solenoid slaps closed and no fire is give for said cylinder. Then next cylinder the solenoid is fed a signal to fuel. Mostly the ECM that does this. As far as I know there is no way for the VP44 PSG unit to do drop cylinders on its own. Still in all pop testing and compression test are much cheaper than a VP44 replacement.

If engine coolant is over 140*F it can't start 6 cylinder or 3 cylinder. If engine coolant is over 170*F all 6 cylinder and 3 cylinder modes are cancelled till coolant temperature falls below 140*F. So it not going to be a injection pump or ECM thing. But... It's very possible for a injector(s) that is pissy or pop pressure is off to create a misfire condition. It very possible for a cracked piston to create this problem too. JL Welding was the one that comes to mind that spent huge amount of money chasing misfire problem that turned out to be a cracked piston. Hence why I'm still suggesting injectors being pop tested and compression test.

Opps. Typo. Didn't Hurt. Post corrected.

Thank you! You are the first person to supply good photos and test data proving without a doubt the alternator diode issues! Thank you!