Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Check out this video...
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Boost should be correct. I'm not sure why the calculation is off. Horsepower is going to be calculated flywheel power. Loop is a gasser function. Timing is also a gasser function.
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That would be it. The truck ended it life in a mild traffic accident. Still running but CajFlynn didn't want to mess around with fixing it up again. So it was sold the last I heard but it was still a running engine.
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Well I've got wet spots along the bottom edge away from the actual seal. I'm not certain if if the cover leaking or not. So why chance it. I'll pull the cover and clean it up. Not a huge deal yeah it's going to add some time but like I said before I'd wanted to grab some gear case pics.
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Any flash work has to be done with a DRBIII tool. So... You are more or less stuck to dealers unless you find someone with a DRBIII tool but that will be rare outside a dealer.
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Your not going to get kicked but 12V mechanical lift pumps come up short on the upper end of RPM so they don't flow as well at high RPMs as they do with lower RPM's. so they aren't all the great either.
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I've been multiple trips over 1,400*F and my old DiPricol was holding together fine for 10 years.
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I've not notice any changes in vacuum just the oil leaking.
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...and a bit Gimp'ing the image together and.... Now Dorkweed can't hide no more... LOL
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Yea... I got my seal today and the silicone to do the cover. I figure I'll just pull the cover so I can get a good photo shoot of the gear case and internal parts.
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As for mine I've replaced it twice now over 240k miles. But as for after market clutches it works just fine with my Southbend Clutch and no issues as of yet. First one wore out like you said it would self engage. The second one started leaking fluid in the cab and sucking air back in making it a requirement to pump the pedal to get the clutch to disengage properly.
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I tend to agree with both above posts...
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Make sure to talk to the dealer and be sure they are competent for working on Dodge Cummins Diesel. It not the same as a gasoline car. There is differences in programming and the different computers. Some dealers don't understand how to properly re-flash or update flash most vehicles.
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Heck at this rate I'll save a bunch of time on the seal too. Thanks Guys...
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No. VP44 stayed in.
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Same here...
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TFaoro is right. Just the HO and SO series pumps. SO pumps have high volume and HO pumps have higher pressure. Typically most stay to stock standards in replacement unless your aiming to get every last bit of power then most switch to SO pumps.
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Yeah... I'm going to pull the cover and reseal the gear case completely. It won't both me a bit. Q: MnTom the gear case cover is just put on with silicone (grey) correct?
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Write up... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/469-vacuum-pump-rebuild
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Another way is to dip a q-tip in the manifold. The shavings get snagged up in the cotton q-tip.
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OMG... All the horror stories of how hard it is and troublesome it is to rebuild your vacuum pump. I did mine from start to finish in 2 hours taking my time. No more oil leak from there now. But now I got to get a front crank seal and replace it. I left the power steering pump attached and just yanked the vacuum pump. Man this is such a easy job to do... I'm going to make a write up...
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I know those trucks its just a dump valve on the rear brakes to prevent locking of the rear brakes. You might check over that assembly in the back as well. As you get measurable heat from the rotors and drums? Just want to verify actually is all 4 wheels. I would tend to agree with MnTom to check the vacuum booster.
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If the transmission is already built up and weakness taken care of then you can tap and turn up the box. But stock transmission I wouldn't do more than a untapped box of any flavor.
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Out of all these names I see floating around here come on people post up your pics lets see who you are. EDIT: I even added more pictures to my original post.
