Mopar1973Man

You've got to be kidding. That tiny car could never pull that massive trailer around safely.

Back in the shadows...

Batteries only freeze if discharged. So as long as the batteries are fully charged they will not freeze.

I just reach back and pop the connector off. I've also got big gorilla hands too.

IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse. It's the one in the funky clip. This fusee powers the OBDII port.

Here is the acronym hover feature.

Yeah I learned that lesson. Now I pull up in front of the fire station door so the building is blocking the wind.

Even my daily commute to work it would take at least 8 miles or so to reach full 190*F. I know the 1/2 mile trips to the fire station are rough. So when I'm done with my fire call I'll drive away from home another 5 miles and turn around to come home giving me 10 miles of operation time.

Another 40A from what I was told. But now you'll never know its just a lump of melted plastic.

Adjustable AirDog & Raptors have issues with the regulator setup. I would pull it out and inspect the regulator. I'm glad of my setup is just a simple ball and spring.

It appears like that red tab moves downward into the socket even more. That's why the notch. Kind of one of those to push while you pull.

Once again called out for another fire call. Been a busy winter time. Well this one was owner caused. Vehicle had a electrical issues and blew out a 40A fuse which the owner admits changing the fuse. Then he said the vehicle started and ran but rough. So he shut it down and hooked pu a battery charge and went in the house to warm up. Turned around to see fire rolling out from under the hood. His wife call 911 and myself and he was using snow to attempt to control the fire. Went I got there the fire was mostly out and quick blast of a dry-chem fire extinguisher kill most of it. Then I snip the battery cable and ran back fired up the pump and douse the remaining embers glowing. Lesson for the day. If you blown a fuse you better find out why the fuse blew before stuffing another fuse in the panel.

I got to say "Thank you" to MoparFreak1988 for setting up a killer deal for a set of door hinges for mt truck.

Cowboy that crowd last till after 10pm MST last night I was checking now and then and at 10pm it still had 4 people chatting.

Bit harsh isn't it?

Even worse is see ASE certified mechanics that are lost working on a Cummins.

The fact of creating enough heat to completely burn the fuel. Cold engines tend not to burn all the fuel completely leaving fuel to push past the rings or tar up on the valves. (Tom bet me too it!)

Nope. I run on riff raft roads up here all the time. That course stone that is really jagged. Only seen 1 flat from a stone. I run 99% in 2WD even in the winter time I rarely ever even use it.

As for me if I'm short tripping I will attempt to extend my driving time by driving past my stop to allow the engine to fully warm up.

The cooking of the PSG is mostly the alternator noise. I've only found a very small handful of people that actually seen the overheat code on the VP44.

Because on the 1998.5 and forward there is no cam lobe to drive pump. You'd have to change cams.

I'm curious of the changes you get...

Overflow valve is the fuel leaving the rotor as far as what I can figure out on the body ports.

LiveOak (and others) just hover over any dotted underlined word and it will tell you what the acronym is.

But the volume rates are much lower than most electric pumps. http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html I know ISX will argue this article.