Mopar1973Man

Myself included. I like to attempt to keep the truck looking good.

Thanks... Surprised how the bracket turned out and how well it fit under the hood.

Basically the clutch switch provides the ground or power to the starter solenoid relay. So I would suggest you fix the switch or replace it. I would test all thee fuses under the hood with a ohm meter and verify the fuses all have 0 ohms of resistance. I've seen fuses crack and become a open circuit and not appear blown with the black burn on the window.

Here is your P0237 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low This will give you all the diagnostics to test out everything...

I know that Dripley had done a full dash replacement (I'm pretty sure). There was a few other members that did caps on top.

JL Welding wanted me to post up for him. So here it is... http://www.yeahmotor.com/trucks/off-roading-rc-trucks-go-big-or-go-home/

That's why I always suggest pulling both the field leads (green and blue wires) and the alternator fuse because now both circuits are completely dead.

Like here is what I would pickup right now since its a fair price. It's universal coolant so it can go either way. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Antifreeze-Extended-Life-Universal-Gallon-Full-Strength/_/R-NAF1EXT_0417578537 A matter of fact we use the same stuff down at the shop.

I know LMC truck got something but their site is being slow for me right now.

Now you know why I did it. Being that even Eric was suggesting that I remote mount the fuel pressure sender off the engine. Might as well do both senders (boost pressure and fuel pressure).

This isn't caused from the coolant but the lack of changing the coolant. Over time the coolant becomes corrosive and starts eating metals in the cooling system. All the coolant does is prevent boiling and freezing. As for pH level that can only be resolved will system flushing. The coolant becomes corrosive from every time you crank the start your passing a high current through the block and charging the cooling which like a battery more the charge the more acidic and more dead the battery the more like distilled water.

Nope... Not happening. I'll find a dash cover or cap one way or another.

I've installed lots of clutches but never seen any of this kind of damage. I never measure and on rare time I've been known to install clutches without a alignment tool. But I always look to see if the transmission mates up with the bellhousing normally and fully before putting bolts in. I've seen people with over 2 inches to go and get longer bolts and pull the transmission in binding or not.

Geez... I'm not getting break here. Well just finished my gauge project and now found my first crack in my dash on the passenger side of the truck. I was doing a bit of surfing the forum and links of dash providers seem to of gotten old so I'm going to ask all you what you used for dash replacement, caps, etc.

Sometimes you got to diagnose things on the fly. Like I'm suggesting to another Dodge owner to hook a fuse line to the alternator BATT post and bring it in the cab. Then hook up your digital meter and watch the AC noise level in flight and see if the noise comes and goes like the transmission does.

Finally... I got all my wiring, bracket, and other little things done. What I'm loving is both senders are not on the engine at all. I've installed the snubber just after the needle valve. Boost sensor is also relocated on the bracket. Used all push-lock fittings and 1/8" air brake line again. I love the daisy chain electrical plugs awesome idea. All electrical securely connected and tied down. Once again Thank You Eric @ Vulcan Performance for the wonder gauges and the custom bracket.

Possibly. But I doubt it though...

I typically stay away from HOAT (Orange coolant). I tend to gravitate to the Yellow Universal or Green that was original to the truck. Yellow will mix with both and very very common out here locally. Green is a bit less common and can only be mixed with yellow. Orange (HOAT) is very rare and expensive also can be mixed with yellow but prefer to keep the coolant changed so the pH level stay closer to 7.

By chance do you have more of these?

No different that my 5 mile round trip of plowing driveways with my ATV in the winter time. It's only cold till you say, "Snowmobile" then its no longer cold.

Personally I coat everything in engine oil. Grease is absolutely messy next time you lean your arm on the battery or your chest. (Yuck!) As for the boil over you need to verify the voltage of the batteries and make sure they are not over charging. Might check for error codes (battery temp sensor). Might pull the driver side battery out and check the battery temperature sensor for damage. This is what controls the charge rate of the alternator. The colder the battery the more voltage and the warmer the battery the lower the voltage. This prevents the alternator from over-charging the batteries causing the boil over.

Time to do some alternator bench testing. That would be my first thing. Second I would check the blue wire for matching positive voltage of the battery. The green wire is the variable ground from the the PCM controlling the field. Then I would do a voltage drop on the charge lead to verify the lead not damaged or weak. How about battery terminals and main cables? I've seen butt load of vehicles with absolutely mutilated terminals and wires corroded.

Any error codes?

The Brown Truck came! Well I managed to rough my gauges in tonight and I'll get them finished up at work in the morning. They are functional and appear to react with some delay. But I notice in the program software there is a value for adjusting the update delay. I also love the red warning lights I will be getting a USB program cord very very soon. As for getting the old DiPricols out that was a feat of magic. Got all the old plumbing, tubing and electrical out. Then started stringing wires. Like I said I roughed in every thing tonight I'll get my bracket mounted in and then get all the wiring tied up neatly. But I got to admit the EV2's are worlds over the old school DiPricol's I had. Now lets see if all my design work pan out for another 10 years of gauge service.

Hell no. I still argue with my boss about selling K&N filters. (Gag! ) Mopar1973Man -> <-TexasCTD