Mopar1973Man

Welcome to the site. Sorry about the profile limits that in place till 20 post and they are automatically lifted. This is makes unfavorable for spammers. If you work on getting economy and efficiency up the horse power will come with it. Like myself I'm just running little +50 HP injectors and a Edge Comp. Still running stock 3" because there is absolutely no need for 4" since all economy drive should be done at 5 PSI or less so there is no back pressure anyways. But my current high mark. Cmg (Current MPG for the Day).

Absolutely right. The MAP sensor is reporting the boots pressure to the ECM and sees pressures above 20 PSI and it starts cutting back fuel to keep from exceeding boost limits. So a boost fooler (minimum) or a actual performance module like Edge or similar would do much better because now you can calculate fuel tables above the ECM knowledge. This is why the wire tap is required. Other modules that don't tap the wire are going to be limited to 60-65 HP period.

Works better attached to a engine and pumping fuel.

Correct. Normal alternator should be roughly 0.01 to 0.02 AC Volts. AC noise tend to burn up transistors and diodes that where designed for DC power. This creates excessive heat and things start to fail and burn up. Also PCM and ECM can fail from the same problem. Another version...

Probably even easier that the pump isn't on the truck anymore. (The last that I knew).

Ummm... Yes, that was what I was figuring on is that most VP44 owner won't have a clue where a P7100 idle screw is at. As for the VP44 it doesn't have a idle screw at all. Even the stop screw on the APPS sensor is NOT a idle screw. The idle is completely ECM controlled as long as the APPS sensor is providing the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) for idle then the APPS sensor is ignored completely and the ECM controls idle on it own by software. VP44 injection pump is completely fly by wire there is no throttle attachment to the pump like a P7100 injection pump.

Not pushing oil other the breather either. Never drips nor is there oil splatter under the truck. Nothing even close to this...

Nevermind... AT 3am I'm pretty blurry eyed...

Don't even drip in my shop. No. Because the tube is near engine heat for most of its travels.

Hold on a sec. Pin weight of 1,100 pounds which is 20% of the 5,500 trailer weight. My rear axle is only around 2,860 to 3,200 with GAWR of 6,084# so... even using my high number 3,200 + 1,100 = 4,300 pounds... Hua? Nowhere near axle weight rating. Just adding the front and rear GAWR is 5200 + 6084 = 11,284... Here comes back the 11,000 number you mentioned... Which now re-run the tow check its 5th wheel 12,300 and conv. trailer is 12,500 again.

Ok. Rephrase the comment not excessive blow by. It doesn't blow the cap off nor dance in the hole. I would rather go by compression test than blow by. I've laid under the truck with it idling and it just lightly puffing a light vapor out. Nothing like the CR engines I've seen so far. Unscrew the cap and POP watch the cap go flying... As for information I'm going to talk to Lindy tomorrow at work and see what he's got to say. I really doubt rings and pistons. Runs way too good and no noises. MPG are still up to spec just oil usage is up.

Exactly... No catch bottle on mine.

Then I'd better sell my Cummins and buy a Ford...

GVWR of the trailer not the truck. I'm rated to tow 13,400# worth of trailer. If I input your numbers then everything is way off. Max 5th Wheel Towing - 6,500# (Right!) Max Conventional Towing -10,400# Still way low from book.

Same here glued all fitting and used a threaded down pipe.

Well if your worried about injectors then just pull them and have them pop tested to verify there condition. Like myself I'm getting some oil smoke now most likely from bad valve seals. But for hard starts you might have air in the fuel lines or weak compression. More here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/40-basic-diagnostics

I'm using air brake line for my gauge its rated to a burst strength of 600-800 PSI. Copper is risky because 9 times out of 10 the vibration will crack the tubing. Cheap oil pressure tubing (nylon) typically fails from heat and becomes brittle. As for isolators they tend to always skew fuel pressure readings.

Personally I would run the HX35 over the HY35. Cooler EGT's and better flow of exhaust.

Just think of it 78.09% of compressed air is N2 Nitrogen already. The other 20.95% is O2 oxygen. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmosphere_of_Earth

The other truck sounds like a cab and chassis. They typically have a solid axle with king pins. Now the standard Dodge front end should be control arms and coil springs.

Pretty darn close here...

Yea... Sorry to say all the fiddling I've done with my fuel system I can say it's a one way trip. There is no pulling that fitting out again you'll have to cut thee line and re-press the fitting back in. Might bee time to talk to Eric over at Vulcan Performance and getting another length of hose before your start.

It's on the the very back of of the P7100 injection pump. Look at the back there and see the bolt and jam nut.

Just check the compressor wheel standard up/down movement but no rub. Then no movement in/out. I though about pulling the turbo and checking the manifold for oil. Right now I'm looking for possible ideas and start gather up stuff to handle the project.

Here is another good tool.... http://rvtowcheck.com/