01_Cummins_4x4

This is what I use with my MX and it has worked for ABS on my buddy's 07 Cummins ABS, and the 4th gen RAM hemi 4x4 I had for everything on it. https://alfaobd.com/

Any aftermarket parts house starters can be defective without much use. My buddy bought a new parts house starter for his 07 6.7 and it went out twice in less than 6 months. He had to switch to a Denso starter to not have any more issues with it.

The gas truck wiring will be different than your diesel wiring harness. You really need to install your original complete harness and related electrical components from your original cab first, and use your original PCM.

What year is the cab that you installed on your 02? Did you use your all the existing wiring in your cab that you took off, or did you use the donor cab wiring? Did you use the original PCM from your old cab, or use the donor cab PCM? IIRC if your donor cab is 98.5 - 99, or a 2000 year, you will probably want to use your original wiring from the cab you took off. I think 01-02 are the same, but you will still want to use your original PCM because it is programmed to your VIN of our truck, and will have all the factory features enabled on it.

It seems as though Blue Top has not been very responsive for a while now. I'm not sure what's going on with them.

If you have a dremel with a cutoff wheel, you can make a regular screwdriver slot in the head of the PSG stripped bolt to remove it.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

It's just the 5.7 but someday I might a wild hair and decide to rebuild it into a stroker motor.

I installed my Geno's winter front cover in front of my radiator, condenser, etc. a couple weeks ago in anticipation of the winter temps arriving.

I just hauled my friend's 2000 Durango 4x4 on the car trailer on snow and ice back to my shop so that I can diagnose and fix his P1784 trans trouble code issue. He already had a brand new TCM installed 4 years ago from the local trans shop, so I'm kinda leaning towards the Low Reverse solenoid switch or a faulty wire in the harness as being the issue. Right now when diesel is almost a $1 more a gallon, I'm still driving my 97 4Runner SR5 3.4 5 speed 4x4 because it's easier to drive and I just replaced the heater core and valve cover gaskets on it last week, so the heater in it works awesome now.

I sent that to my brother that just traded his 2019 Colorado 2.8L Duramax off for a 2020 Jeep Wrangler 4 door 4x4 with the 4 cyl turbocharged engine.

Nice Challenger! My brother had a 2019 Challenger Black Top Edition in Destroyer Grey. He ended up trading it in for a 4x4 diesel rig as he lives up on the mtn at our family's ranch. Here's my 2010 AWD Hemi Charger

Welcome Colton!

I would think the valve seals have probably hardened up from it sitting for long periods of time without being driven.

Hopefully you can at least get it power washed before the weather turns too cold. I wouldn't like to see you arm pit deep into that oily mess to work on it. So much for those clothes after working on that truck if it can't be cleaned beforehand. Do you at least have a heated shop to work on it in to swap the motor out?

If the driveshaft is whining, then there's definitely something wrong with it for sure. Hopefully it not being 100% is the cause of the seal walking out of its spot in the case.

Wouldn't that oil leak be considered a gusher? Damn what a mess that is! Power washer with hot water to the rescue.

Sycostang, I just noticed that your Amber Brown color wrap is close to the factory 01 Dodge color PVL - Amber Fire Pearl, which looks to have less brown in the paint code. I'm thinking about repainting my 01 with this Amber Fire Pearl color!

I haven't drove my Cummins much since redoing the head gasket again this last spring/summer, because I ride my Harley when the weather is nice. Lately since it's colder now, I noticed that my Napa 190* t-stat tends to bounce around in temp while driving down the road. It will be at 190-195* and then sometimes I see it drop down to 183*. I'm used to a t-stat staying at the temperature that it's rated for, so I don't know if this is an issue or not. I still need to test the blend door yet for full travel of hot and cold. I did time the blend door actuator when I installed the heater treater, but I might just buy a new actuator and install it.

Also, the lifter galley cover gasket only goes on one way. If you install it wrong side out, it will leak A LOT of oil in a hurry.

I'm trying to find the info that I saw a few months ago, but a certain year or years of Chevy Duramax rear driveshaft is supposed to fit our long box pickups with certain u-joints. I'm still trying to find that info again.

The leak detector dye should still remain in the system, and is probably the easiest way to locate a leak vs using soap and water. Yes, the water drain is located on the passenger side firewall below the PCM. Make sure that it's not plugged up and can evacuate any condensation in the evaporator core.

It should. I had it cleaned, decked, and new valve seals installed when I installed the Fel Pro head gasket in Oct 2021 and it only had 4k miles on it.

I swapped out the crappy Fel Pro gasket that blew out between cylinder #1 and the front of the head. I ordered and installed a brand new Cometic MLX multi layer stopper steel head gasket .067" thick # C5855-067 I ordered a 10 Oz bottle of ARP Ultra Torque head stud lubricant to ensure I had plenty of it.

Could this be the issue why my head gasket blew in 5 months? With the stock HX35 turbo on a HO 5.9, Quadzilla Adrenaline and 100hp nozzles, the boost would rise much-much quicker than stock and I believe the combustion pressure was too great for the head gasket