Dieselfuture

^^^^ yes, plus some soil is very corrosive and if left in hard to reach places will rot things out.

So who's going to be first to make this work and simplifie it I like the idea of 3 position toggle switch that IBMobile suggest, and rec/fresh can be delt with later. Edit Which diagram above will work with 3 position switch? And is there a colored one someplace @Mopar1973Man ? I'm not too strong in this field, but should be able to manage once I get going.

So has anyone attempted this yet, I've been fixing other thing but now catching up. I'd like to know also better way to deal with this hvac system. Is @IBMobile suggestion a best way or is there other ways like @Mopar1973Man is thinking, or are you guys talking about same thing.

Blend dor is at very top oh hvac, it controls fresh or recycled air, old cars had a cable that you could put it anywhere. I still prefer all mechanical, I'd love to use windshield air without running ac, I need to find that relay mod that @IBMobile suggested to me a while back so I can have ac on a toggle switch instead of coming on when dodge engineers decided it should. I feel like I'm forced to something I don't agree with lol. Edit Never mind, found my tread

All it took for mine is a contact and plunger kidt, starts after half a crank.

I now have 7x10vco 320 pop, 62/67/12 hybrid, and v2 tuning and I love it. More then I need to brake stuff if I'm not careful.

If you're clicking happens more than the evening it could be cricket But seriously I had something similar happen and then it went away all by itself in my car I want to say was some sort of an insect The only other thing I can think of is a relay

Only for few hundred miles, so yes I can't speak for long term. This is what my pattern look like with regular Pop pressure, so increasing it a little bit should make it fire later and put it more in the bowl

Welcome, you have a journey ahead of you, but when all said and done you'll have a very nice truck. I would not put a sump in, I would modify fuel basket or buy one already modified for 1/2 inch lines. Do it all in half right off the bat and don't look back. For the price difference I would go with Fass 150 titanium or better yet mechanical that is driven by the belt off your crankshaft. You'll need gauges, fuel pressure, egt, boost are probably primary ones. If you get a tuner get Quadzilla with V2 tuning. 75hp vco injectors would work well with hx35 that you have and Quadzilla. Be sure to overfill your transmission with correct synchromesh fluid whatever it is you decide to use, I'm using Amsoil currently, MTF. Pennzoil synchromesh is available almost everywhere and works well too. You want to try and squeeze one extra quart in transmission after it comes out of bottom of fill hole, most people just take shifter Tower off and put it from the top. I would change fluid out asap in your transmission and for that matter in everything else, like antifreeze, power steering fluid, brake fluid etc. Check all your wiring, especially grounds. Put new batteries in if needed do both at the same time. Check your alternator for AC noise/current, 0.03-0.05vac is ok, anything over is not good. Do a ground mod that someone will post eventually. There is a lot more to learn It'll come with time, be patient, don't try to order everything now to save time, you'll have spare parts laying all over that way. It never ends, but the journey is well worth it.

I had mine whipping oil at 120k that's when I bought my truck, drove with rtv in front bolt hole for maybe 6 years or more and had 154k when I finally changed it because the leaking got bad. I did change all fluids when I first got it though. When I took head gasket off it was missing chunks in more than one place, I'm surprised I didn't have more problems.

Oh man, here we go.... dont let @IBMobile see this sorry I couldn't resist.

It's got to be a twin thing

Yeah 16th to an 8th toe in

How often you change your power steering fluid

Yes to change seals and torque rockers but not to adjust valves, only one of those cylinders will be adjustable

Mine is right at 8000 with me in it

Yes but it does take some tinkering. Look through tunes posted above and try a couple, then fine tune from there. I have 285/70/17 3.55 and on hwy I average 18-20 depending on speed. I just put a set of 7x10 vco injectors in and seem that I can get better milage but haven't put enough miles on yet to know. Something isn't right if you're only getting 12mpg.

That's what I asked dap to set mine to and so far I love it, no smoke at all on idle. My tune starts at 80 now even on my previous tune starting at 86 it was not that smokey but definitely more power then the 75hp I pulled out.

I've never had sac injectors so I can't say much, but from what I understand they are dirty. Your truck definitely got some haze, almost looks white. If it happened after changing injectors then that may be the problem. Who did you get it from and what pop pressure are they set at. I just installed a set of 7x10 vco from dap set at 320bar and I have zero haze and very little smoke on start up. Was there a reason for sac vs vco.

I split my balancer in 3 with marking paint starting on TDC #1 and rotating crank with alternator (backwards) used backwards firing order. Worked good, then I doubled check valve lash when I was done using overlap method. Plus doing one cylinder at a time let's you torque rocker arms down without force from cam. I guess it's the only way to do it anyway without dropping valves.

It should run on ether regardless, but personally I would not use it. You need to do hot wire test on vp44 to rule it out. Make sure you're getting good pressure at vp, but it shouldn't really need much pressure to start as long as there is fuel to it. Now as soon as it starts you should have no less than 14 and I would not go over 20psi. 15-18 is a good place.

I can't stand voicemail and the amount of time it takes to get to it, text is better than that. And most of the time it will be a message like, hey it's at so and so call me back. Really???!!! If it's an emergency call me more than once then I'll know, and if I'm not by the phone it doesn't do anyone any good. Edit I'm talking about people that you already know well not new contacts.

Possible but I didn't see much in there when I took it upart, had a little bit but wasn't hard, more like sludge from not changing fluid since new lol. So I don't doubt it.

So more then likely ecm is not reducing pressure for starting purpose. You really need to get it off the ecm and on relay, ecm will trigger relay. Then do delay relay mod also to eliminate hard start. So you'll add 2 relays to accomplish this. I'm not sure where that right up is, but someone will post it momentarily, I hope....

I like factory steel rims for simplicity and durability but I'm using 4th gen alloy rims from a 3500