Dieselfuture

No point just wanted to keep this thread a life for no reason, thanks for the help...

I like ice cream sometimes and sometimes a cold beer and love when i can get free parts

Needs a bath

Grounds are important too. Fill in your signature.

So with all that said, what clutch should I be looking at in future when need one. My guess is I won't see more than 500hp 1200 tq with my 62/67/12 and will probably get a set of 150hp injectors, 75hp now. I don't tow a lot but when do it's usually around 10-12k on few occasions I had close to 16k on a 14k trailer, probably more like 18k combined. I believe trailer weights about 2500. Anyway if I'm towing I stay in canbus tuning using around 350hp just my guess. I don't know what I have now but probably ceramic with no springs to absorb rattle, because it's grabby and when tranny is worm I hear all the gear rattle when in neutral, if I push in clutch all the noise goes a way.

Obviously because we've not that bright...

Edit, like I said no one is laughing at my jokes

I'm really curious what I have for clutch, po said it was just changed before I got it but nothing to special, I never slipped it yet easing in to it but if I try to lunch then it can slip. Guess I'll find out some day.

Report back after a while with difference in temps between oil/antifreeze just so we can all compare our experience

Can you remind me what BG is, I know it's not BJ which could cure BG for a while.

Yes you can use tranny temp sensor and T in where oil filter is, but it's a waste of effort, I did it and oil was always about same temperature as antifreeze. About 10 degrees higher then antifreeze from what I remember. I now put it in my tranny.

@IBMobile ha cool smile's you post@Mopar1973Man need to add some more to options

You guys.....

It will be a slow go ha ha, but maybe you can pull some stomps out for your naighbors.

May also want to fix your problem that fried the ecm before you put new one in

Airating oil is not good, that should show on pressure guage but the guage may not be accurate. Need a mechanical one to verify. Never good when crank is touching oil, dentist must be good size, when motor runs a lot of oil will be up top.

Not telling

The one you're not supposed to touch needs to be torqued to 89 in/lb before you put hold down in place, it has a lip that it bottoms out on, then you torque the other one to 89in/lb

Unless copper washer isn't seated therefore the lope and fuel from crossover tube not mated right going in cylinder. Crack injectors on at time and see which one doesn't do anything

That would more likely be the Big O ring on the injector itself

@BBHD looks like your clutch pedal gets excise it needs

I don't like paying triple amount for batteries myself but that was my opinoin on solution to corrosion. I have leadacid in my truck too and regularly checking up on them.

I'm sure a lot of it has to do with sunlight

AGM or Gell batteries

I wouldn't go above 1800 on pump stretch, just no reason to. IMO.