Dieselfuture

With everything off check all fuses and see if there is any draw that should tell you what's draining the battery, some timers may stay on for few hours after ignition is off. Sorry that's all I know.

As screwed up as it sounds it may actually work for a while

Kids play All you have to do is wrap that engine with duct tape so it wouldn't come apart like that

I don't know for a fact but for my previous builds I usually split the difference of the travel and maybe add a half inch to make it longer rather than shorter, if that makes sense. So let's say from when splines go in till they bottom out is 4in, I would make it so that it was in 2 and 1/2 in and inch and a half of free space before it bottoms out. It would be more important with shackle travel, but the way these front end setup with kind of a 4-link there's really not a lot of in and out travel. Hopefully someone knows the exact measurements

Man that's a tough one, if it's truly original you are on borrowed time, even with all the proper maintenance 250k is about an average. Yours can go any moment without a warning. I guess if you truly concerned either have a backup plan for Towing and survival kits, etc... or just change it out now if you have spare cash and time. Thoroughbred is a good place, 2 years is a good warranty, I would go for Industrial Injection as they seem to have good stuff. I often think myself when my VP is going to go and also thought about just changing it out so I know the history of it. As mentioned above start using 2-cycle oil in your fuel. I do use anti gel powerservice in the winter together with 2-cycle, against some good advice. But unfortunately where I live, fuel is not treated very well so I kind of have to.

Oh man we're planning a fishing trip to Canada in exactly 30 days hope the ice will be out

I'm wondering if it could be an injector issue

Don't let nasholes see this post, they'll be changing their theory of relativity and come up with another way of charging us fees for day light savings.

Make sure to check for boost leak behind that snap ring when you're done mine was losing a lot of air from there, took some rtv to cure it. Harbor freight may fave something. Or you can make your own, welding something on channel locks or drill holes in them to put something in.

I guess it would of made more sense if title said (Push starting a Cummins with a manual transmission). It's a bit late now and we're all on a same page. I was thinking maybe something in ecm or vp would not be happy, but guess not.

Keep it coming, want to see if anyone snapped a u joint or something, but mainly it's good to hear there is no ill effects.

Seem to remember someone mentioning this before. Out of curiosity let's say you have 10 people pushing your truck or you could roll down the hill or you could tow it with a different vehicle, can a manual transmission Cummins be pop started, will everything work as it should, lift pump for example. Mainly talking about the vp44 truck but would like to know any info possible.

Must of got some traction, did you pull any stumps out or anyone out of ditch

@Silverdodge how much snow did you get, is it normal for April

Not coming out of gear could still be because of that nut, be nice to know for a fact that he installed the retainer. It can also be something with a clutch or pilot bearing. Also something could be wore out on a fork or missing little plastic pads if this tranny uses them.

Wireing is weak on these, wires get hot and melt especially with bad grounds. Check brake switch on brake pedal and light switch on dash, and grounds associated with it.

It could add to your current leak. When your vacuum pump turns it sucks air in so if there is no line attached to it it will pump air in crankcase creating more blowby.

Doesn't sound too bad, make sure it's got some sort of warranty and a bigger input shaft, early versions had smaller one.

I never messed with blue clips, just took lines lose at pump and injectors

I've always took injection lines out completely in 2 sets of 3, they don't move much so I never tried leaving them in.

I'm thinking if I ever need one I'll try to find a good used for decent price, if unable to do so I'll look for nv4500 and last option would be to put something out of commercial use that will bolt to engine and I'll make everything else work, possibly np205 divorced case as I'm very familiar with them and used and abused them in offroad with different setups, never blew one up.

Go with quadzilla, don't think. You'll be able to detune it with big injectors on take offs with minimal smoke and have all the fuel you need on top end without wiretap.

Could you please remind me on how to, I need it done in think. Mike said something about going in all the way and backing out 1.5 turns

Could you remind me again if you spliced in ground wires for relays triggers or disconnected them on the body somewhere

You can just hang your truck on the tree after you done power washing it to let the water drip off with that hitch