Dieselfuture

I'd have to agree but when I had my Mustang I blew that t5 enough times got tired of paying shop every time and was told same thing "it's pretty complicated that's why not everyone wants to work on one and those that do want to get paid" well I ended up tearing one up part and fixing it myself, and few more times after then got smart and sold the stupid thing. Didn't like autos at the time, liked shifting gears. But moral of the story is, with some effort anything is possible. I blew 2nd and 3rd gear and main cluster shaft every time I hit nitrous button lol, at that time it costed me about $300 in pars and before 800-1000 when shop did it, and I brought tranny in. Guy actually offered me a job there after all the talking we've done. Same place I got some parts for my monster truck from, when I was building my np200 combined with np205 and I reversed some stuff internally to have different ratio and having both shafts come out of lower end, later drove to his shop and he couldn't belive it, said just when he seen it all lol. Sorry got side tracked. Maybe you can buy a used one cheaper like @dripley not sure what he spent

That's what I meant in original post, I don't think I worded it correctly.

Cash and guns Just kidding, maybe. But in all honesty, very similar to you. Plus air compressor and tire plugs. Used water pump not sure why, thinking about getting a vp too, some filters, used belt etc, some extra oil, brake fluid...

I was talking about this picture

Just do it, we got your back

It looks like some one added 2" block on top of factory one and leveling kit up front. And maybe got rid of overloads for softer ride

I spent 1000 just on the head, but I had to put in new guides and do the valve job that added up, plus pressure test and mag it. And it was considered fair priced. So be aware if guides are wore they will call you and ask you your plan. Or just throw it back together. Just saying seems a bit cheap especially with new studs. Plus labor, something ain't right.

I would shop around and compare before committing. And make sure they don't just do brakes as everyday thing and just need extra work, I'd go to a machine shop first that actually works on motors every day and can do their own machine work. Unless you know some good back yard mechanic you can trust. Not easy to find good help at good price, that's why I'm still doing what I can myself. Seen to many a fu.. it it will be alright just put it back together.

It may take a bit for brushes to wear in place and it should go down, but if it's been like that for a while something isn't right. Are you measuring at alternator and all accessories off including grid heaters. Edit, ignore this post I looked at decimal point in wrong place, though it was .12 not sure why. Good news for you though.

Are you pulling tranny or are they and if you're doing 3,4 synchros might as well do them all and check bearings etc, it's going to be dissambled for the most part. I'd definitely put new seals and whatever else wears. Labor on just tranny be at least 800-1000 just guessing here. Plus parts and if they have to pull it out. I would also check pilot bearing in flywheel maybe replace just because and inspect clutch. Heck might as well do rear main seal too. You'll know more when you get it out.

Qwadzila.... pretty much every sensor is viewed life. Or obdlink can do same https://www.google.com/search?q=obdlink&oq=obdli&aqs=chrome.4.69i60l2j69i57j0l3.5061j0j7&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Man I don't know where to start here. First get rid of k&n and put bhaf on. Nozels are part of injectors, they are threaded on injectors, so when you buy a complete set (it would say from dap) they come complete but you will need to send yours as a core or pay a core price, if they aftermarket or have aftermarket nozels they won't take then as core, make sure you ask before purchasing, that goes for any seller unless they specify it in description. If you just get nozels you unscrew yours and screw new ones on but to make it right you need to pop test them so they all pop at same pressure and flow test them, a complete set from dap will be ready to put in motor. So if it says 100hp injectors it means they are 100hp over stock, rv275 means they are 275hp total. For higher boost you need at least a boost fooler or I would recommend qwadzila Adrinalin with v2 tuning. HX35 will be ok for a while with 100hp injectors and you can tune it to what you want with the qwadzila. I'm not even using my waste gate on my hybrid xh35/40 plugged the hole that goes to waste gate and set defuel on qwadzila to what I like. Qwadzila came a long way in a passed year and in my opinion the best tuner for a vp44 truck. Few years ago I was thinking about buying something else but thanks to @Me78569 and combined effort from this site and few guys that qwadzila made it to the top and I'm glad I kept it. Fill out your signature so we can help better.

Always nice to have little rewards like that.

Yes didn't even think of mentionin gthat lol, though everyone was aware of it. Apparently not

are you using right flash with right profile, I've used quite a few different android devices and all show same.

I hear you, took me couple of weekends, I'm too anal about everything plus it took most of week for shop to do their thing with the head. But what's wierd is when I helped my friend with his race motor, we threw that thing together over a weekend and didn't think twice, ran like a raped ape

Can IAT do that @Mopar1973Man I know you said it does things to timing map.

But don't you just unplug it from the battery, I believe we're discussing putting in a toggle switch on the negative for relays, small wires that trigger them. Maybe not I don't know

Sounds like u joint in axle shaft, not sure why you have one in glove box

I'm going to have to try it on mine here pretty soon and see what happens, planing on just disconnect ground for relays and if it works I'll put it on toggle switch, just wondering if one switch is sufficient for both relays

What happened to the original one, took a bearing out running low on oil?

That sucks but a good thing too

Did you had to rebuild it at one point

Yes codes first, but at idle with no TPS input ECM is in charge of that. Maybe cam sensor maybe something else, I would definitely check for excessive AC noise.

Don't just replace alternator with part store alternator they are junk for most part, either have yours rebuild by a shop that does it for the living, assuming yours is still original, or buy one online original or good quality aftermarket. Not sure if yours is Bosh or Denso, I had Bosch on mine and Denso will fit, not sure vice versa, don't see why not. ECM Rebuilders place out of Florida seem to been doing good. Start reading these articles that pertain to your problem if you scroll down you'll see reputable ECM rebuilders https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/