Killer223
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Everything posted by Killer223
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remember, 80% of them just sit. and are used 4-5 times. then once or twice a year. nothing wrong with used. always replace teh bed with a pillow top. the couch is not big deal. Whats the intended use for the RV? hunting? back woods camping? trailer park queen? -
adhd.
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that's a great portion of the video. have you seen the whole thing? zeitgeist 1 and 2?
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yeah until we get more info what he's lookin for it's hard to say. i know mine loaded is 13200 last time across the CAT scales. but i have toy hauler 5er though and 140 gallons of water, 50 gallons gas, food and beverages to last a family of 4 a week or more. and firewood in the bed of the truck. a Commander Max, lawn chairs, it adds up fast. but i gotta say it's WELL worth it.
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do you have atv's? or toys? bumber pull or 5er? i'm a fan of Artic Fox. they have toy haulers with built in generators. very nice feature. ive seen a few Tangos that were ok. don't be afraid to buy used. wife n i got our current 5er for 5K. the genny had 120 hours. two new 6V batteries, all i did was buy 4 Hercules tires, and repack the bearings, replaced the roof vent covers. it's a great trailer. and very spaciouse. for us with 2 kids. and it'll fit our Commander MAX inside. i've added solar panels as well. our awning is 18' on the side and we can lower the rear door and have a bug screen down for another kinda outdoor patio type thing. our first was small. 12' so we learned by the 3rd one 33' (current one) to buy more then you think you'll need. it's worth it. we only boon dock. never been in a "camp ground" per say yet. try and get the biggest fridge you can. try an get one with flipped axles if you plan on off road travel, get the 7 gallon propane tanks. look for the 16" wheels. we like the weekend warrior line. when you were looking at bumper pulls. we wanted a forward bedroom, was well worth that feature alone. the added storage under the bed was awesome to have. something our 5er does not have. i have more thoughts depending how this advise is received. just clicked your links. http://www.johnniewalkerrv.com/rv/las+vegas+nv/keystone+traveltrailer/7650/keystone+springdale+240bh i would stay away from. it has a special matress that you can only get from them. not a standard queen. that alone would shy me away from it. and i don't like slid outs they are HEAVY!!. of the two you posted i'd take the Colman. layout is better bed access is better. i also like the fiberglass siding. that none of those had. personal preference. here's one i'd consider. http://www.lasvegasrv.com/used-travel-trailer-rvs/2004-thor-wanderer-260rk-1273267 here's a really nice one. i would give this one some serious thought. the layout is excellent. http://www.lasvegasrv.com/used-travel-trailer-rvs/2005-thor-tahoe-30-ms-1266362
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book everyone should read, Modern money mechanics. read it a few times to let it sink in if need be. thanks for the link.
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i've got the tools. i'm just lacking the education and sometimes the drive.
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i think when i need major work done on my truck i'ma give Mike a plane ticket.
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i pay cash for everything. i've been audited a few times for slapping down 10-25 grand in 100 $ bills. now i write a check and let the bank handle it. the feds don't like cash because they can't control it. wife and i financed our first car together. before i was educated, through Santander at 16% after 4 years it still wasnt' 1/2 way paid off. we sold that and got a cheep 1990 ford Probe GT. saved the cash and got her a 2012 civic, saved more cash and got my truck's. house is paid for. Dave Ramsey is a brilliant man to listen to.
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http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-36671-Pennzoil-Transfer/dp/B002M589TA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456846041&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+jug+pump i'm looking for a better one. this one takes FOR EVER. maybe an electric/air operated one. but same idea.
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To change the T-case fluid is really easy. i went shopping and picked up 3 quarts of Valvoline transfer case fluid. i know the manual calls for ATF+4 but well i didn't listen. ***NOTE*** ALWAYS remove the fill bolt first. it's a Allen wrench of size that eludes my thoughts right now. All to often i've seen people drain the t-case first then can't get the fill bolt out. now after that's been removed, you can safely remove the drain bolt and drain the t-case. i put a larger red funnel under mine to help guide the fluid through the skid plate. after it's drained. reinstall the drain bolt, and start pumping the quoted 2 quarts in. Just as my rear dif i filled mine about 1/4 or so more then the suggested 2 quarts. reinstall the fill bolt. Clean your tools. enjoy total time about 10-15 minutes.
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Changing rear differential fluid in a AAM axle So to start off this is my first article, So please bear with me. First I did was locate the fluid I wanted to use in my differential. seeings how i didn't have a posi or limited slip, Any dino gear oil of the correct GL-5 rating would suffice. I picked up a 2 gallon jug of travelers 80w-90 gear lube that is GL-5 rated. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-multi-purpose-gear-oil-80w-90-2-gal?cm_vc=-10005 I also picked up 2 cans of brake cleaner spray. Side note: 15w-40 oil was on sale for 9.00 a gallon. i got 6. After getting home, I parked on level ground as you always should when working on the rear differential. Tools need was my trusty impact drill with a 13mm socket. The gasket on the differential is a reusable one so take care when removing. i started with the lower bolts and worked back and forth across the cover. Eventually the fluid started leaking out into my drain bucket. After letting the fluid drain for a few min. I removed the remaining bolts. Inspected the fill bolt and magnet on it. It was surprisingly clean. The fluid color wasn't as bad as I thought it might be being I had 38K miles on it and the manual states ever 30K miles. I sprayed the brake cleaner in and let it drain kinda flushing out the old oil and metal residue. Inspected the backlash and bearings. Nothing was of a concern so I placed the gasket on the cover with two bolts going through to help hold it in place. Reinstalled the cover by starting each bold BY HAND first. then my impact tightened things up. Removed the fill bolt with a standard 1/4 inch drive ratchet and set the pump in the jug and started filling the differential. after 4 quarts mine wasn't spilling out the hole, so about another 1/4-1/2 quart went in. I don't think it'll hurt anything. Replaced the fill bolt and cleaned up the tools. Drive it around the block, check for leaks. all is fine today. The front differential should be similar you just have to jack the truck up and let the axle drop so you have access to the cover bolts behind the track bar and steering linkage. Read my other article about the fluid change on the T-case. Total time about 15 min. Pumping the fluid back in takes the longest. questions? comments?
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i get the same thing, as with my edge gauges, the battery Volts can be 14.8 and the gauge on the dash says well below 14 till i get above 15 mph. i think it's the computer that sets the dash gauge, i haven't worried about it one bit.
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so this weekend i'ma change the oil in the rear dif, t-case. not doing the front dif as i checked it and it's color is still nice and clean looking, i know i spins all the time but under no load maybe kept it cleaner longer. for the rear the manual calls for a synthetic 75-90, will the normal conventional, 80-90 be ok? i have a few gallons of this on the shelf. the t-case calls for atf+4, however my 93 toyota calls for atf as well and i use 30 weight non detergent oil in it. would that be ok in the tcase on my dodge as it is in the toyota??
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then 3rd gens need better filtration. the 6.7 however i think had better. do the normal blow buy test on a warm engine. for the 5.9 03-07.5 you'll want to check the HVAC doors. the door switches usually stop working as the wires between the doors and jamb brake. the usual balljoints. thanks all i can offer. me personally i'd stay away from a modified truck. i buy STOCK!
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if it's stock then you don't need gauges. it's stock and won't really hurt it's self being stock. try and get them up to operating temp as soon as you can and for as long as you can.
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i'd have to say if you plan on hotshoting or being a tow pig i'd leave it stock as can be with added fuel filtration.
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sorry to resurect an old thread, but i have questions. as like many i don't get the numbers game with turbos. i have a factory stock early 04. is there any way to get more air flow from my stock turbo, like a change of parts or do i need a whole new turbo? i have an S06 and will get UDC? if needed. i get rather high egt's on any of the software. i tow right now with stock tuning.
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The government does what they want. as you saw, 99.9 % of the people were to scared to speak up. these few did speak up and they will be silenced. step out of line in this country and you will be silenced. JFK, Lennon, MLK, Waco, ETC. have to give them props for standing up for what they believe in.
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seeings how the two other two stroke posts are locked i am starting this one. http://www.fuelexpert.co.za/2strokeoilindiesel.php http://www.fuelexpert.co.za/2-stroke-oil-in-diesel-technical-study.php thoughts....
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for as heaters go i have yet to find a better one then http://planarheaters.com/diesel-air-heaters-planar they seem to be great heaters. had on in my old 28' 5er with 10gal tank and it was amazing compared to propane on usage. soon as i get the gumption to swap one into my new 5er i'm all over it. this guy has some very useful info as well. http://globalcamper.blogspot.ca/p/4x4-dodge-ram-camper.html
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we could make the trip if it was earlier in the year. the kids are back in school by this time. sadly we will be unable to join in the fun. looks to be about 950 miles. and google says 14 hours. but dragging a trailer would be much slower if i wanted over 8 MPG. in 2017... will try and pan for this.
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i have two 100w solar panals on my 5'er one roof mounted one mobile. they charge 2 6V golf cart batteries. my TV is a 19" led from walmart Elament that just to happened to be 12V. even though it comes with a 110 cord it converts to 12V so i made an adapter to a cigarette lighter, that and a 12V portable dvd player with video out works great to keep the wife n kids occupied during the rain events out camping. changing all the lights to LED was a GREAT saver of batteries. with this setup i can run about a week with no generator use unless using the microwave. we have AC but never use it. and the heater we use a big buddy heater hooked to the trailers tanks. it's a lot better then the on board furnace.
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i'll do the best i can. if i get time away from plowing.
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my plan for the next few days.. for science.
