Killer223

personally i think EPA is trying to nail them to help pay for their own screw up in colorado on the animus river. the fine they are putting against VW. who and were do the "Billions" go? not to me, or you, but their own pocket. i hate the EPA, they dropped the ball on the road salts here in AZ that are killing all the trees along the side of the roads were used. another bureaucratic BS CONTROL of the government.

clean oil is the best one to run that meets the oil spec requested by the engine. one that still has the additive pack after your desired run interval.

i love my wifes cooper cs4's but they stopped making them. we have 80K on a 70K mile rated tire with a good 10+K miles to go on tread. i'm sure the cs5's would be great. we live in AZ at 7000 feet, so snow we do get. they do great in all weather.

i know my truck is the AAM axles, but my joints made it 220K so far. i have the upper right starting to get loose. i'm thinking raybestose are the best option for me. price wise i think they are a good option with decent reviews.

your right foot will decide weather you have to replace the clutch i would think. everyone told me i have to rebuild my auto with a programmer, and 60K later it's doing fine,

so i know my truck came with 134, but i'm getting ready to reseal the system, and well. why couldn't i run r12? i have a few cases of it. i do have the 134 as well. just wondered why i couldn't run the r12. i does cool faster and colder. thoughts?? you can convert the r12 system to 134 just by the fittings on the hoses. so the internals should be capable of running the r12...

you might not have to rebuild the gun, most times adjustment is all that is needed.

not sure the model of gun, but they have a needle and seat, you should be able to take the front of it off like where the tip screws onto. i think it's a 9/16 i may be wrong. some debris may be in there or it might be time for a rebuild kit for the gun as well. \good practice is to soak the gun in lacquer thinner as a few hours/days as well then wire brush or high pressure wash it off when the paint is all gooie.

does the siphon tube have a rock guard on it? if not you need one.

i wouldn't take the hoses off. when i pick up a used one, i run the lacquer thinner though it for about 45 min to an hour, then i put in fresh thinner and re run for another 30 min or so. the filters are cheepish, get the different mesh for latex, oil, lacquer. if you plan on runnig latex and or lacquer though it get two separate pressure hoses and guns. that way you never contaminate the lacquer with latex bits. post some pics if you can so i can see what vintage you have. i have 3 395's but they are all the same era. soem good tips to have on hand are 411, 515, 517. the smallest being the 411. oil and lacquer tip. 515 for interior latex, 517 exterior tip. the way the tips numbering works is say 411/ the first digit 4, take that number and double it. you'll have an 8" spray pattern, 11 is the orifice size. you want to keep the gun 8-10" away from the substrate for an even spay patters., and over lap your pattern by half. if your getting heavy line at both ends of the pattern then you need more pressure or thinner material. or maybe a new tip. make sure you keep the filter in the gun clean as well. no need for a new hose unless yours has a hole in it. or you want to add one. the longest i think the 395's can go are about 100 foot. to be a little more clear. run the lacquer thinner through the machine for about an hour. both with the prime leaver in the down or prime position, and then in the flat or pressure position. with you pulling the trigger on the gun.

i can walk you through or make videos on taking the pump apart if you need.

you can take the intake tube off and clean it, or just get a few gallons of lacquer thinner then set it to prim. let it run for about an hour. the packing kit to rebuild it is about 30$ and it's really easy to do. make sure you put some throat sleeve oil where you see the piston rod going up n down. when you store it not in use for more then a week or so, keep paint thinner in it with pressure on, no rust and it's when you leave the pressure off the the paint dries out in the packing cause air can reach it. the 395's are great little rigs. the knocking sound is the ball and seat at the bottom. when it won't prim that little ball is what has some debris not letting it seat. do the lacquer thinner for a good while then do again with clean thinner. i have 5 airless sprayers and i do this method to all of them every fall. and i store mine with lacquer thinner in them all winter long. the ones i use regulatory get normal paint thinner for the cold nights. any more question let me know, i am a professional painter by the way.

there is a good dealership in Cottenwodd AZ that usually has a good selection of 2nd gens. i got my first cummins from them, best car buying expierence i've ever had. http://courtesyautosales.net/CottonNewandusedcars.aspx?clearall=1

i think i would use urethane before lacquer.

the panels have dropped in price in the past 5 or so years. if you want totally off grid get batteries. else you'll charge the grid and they'll pay you .0002 cents per KwH and charge you much more. a guy i work with has 15 panels, no batters and his sumer time electric bill is around 8$ (we live in northern Arizona) built a log house that was 100 % off grid and it has 30 panels and 10 batteries. price wise, i have no idea, but i'd sure as heck do it if i could.

careful, some cities have banned the burning of coal in city limits. here in Flagstaff, you can't burn coal within the city but the county guys can. i think it's cause the smell. i used it as a all night log type.. got hot fie then put as big of chunks in as i could let it burn all night. Here one has to be a card caring native to get truck load of it.

i love my wifes car 12 civic. get 35+ mpg. great visibility as well. the next one will be a diesel. be it cruze, jetta, bmw. i'm not afraid to buy new as i keep them for about ever. used i'd look into a toyota, i have a 93 4x4. 5 speed, it only gets about 19-21 mpg wise. but the rumors are true. like zero maintance. i change the oil a few times a year and drive it. if you don't need 4x4 then 2 leggers get well into the 30 mpg wise. even the older 22re engines do great. and they can be had for next to nothing. back in highschool i had a 2wd toyota diesel. best darn truck i had. sold it with 1.2 million miles. 3 clutches, lotsa tires and that's about it. if i were to venture into the cross over world. it' have to be a honda pilot. decent ground clearence, awd. and lots of room for range toys. the crosstour might be what you saw. i'm not a fan of it, small mirrors. not overly easy for me to get in and out of. everyone is different though. the second would be a jeep liberty.

yeah and to see the trail it took to get to that loacation. it's amazing what they did back then. here are a few more. first is an old air pump, with what i think is a flathead ford. and more the the rock crusher. elevation was around 10K and a narrow little trail getting there. they hauled these beams one at a time and some took a week or more to get into place. rough life...

i don't top off that far. only let it click off 3 times. always get fuel from sams club unless traveling. this trip i went from Flagpole az, to payson, to Phoenix, then back home i'm happy with the results. i dropped to 65 mph, and tried to keep boost under 10. edge set 4.

your the first to correctly answer CSM.

I'd have to agree, today seeing awesome mpg's. What are they upside down?

the pic explains alot.

well here are a few of my CO trip. Ophir pass was the bad on in the truck. but we made it and did fine. some others. who can tell me about this crank shaft? what does it go to? and now for some awesome views the snow was still 4+ feet deep in june. this was around 10K feet and our camp.we boondock. is that the correct term.

Bummer, i've got 3 for the 16" second gen trucks. check junk yards?

their web site tells you to cut holes in the HVAC box. i't better to just remove the whole thing. i think it's about the same time wise.