Wild and Free

Describe the "miss", do you feel it "Jerky,lurchy or surging" or hear it or both? Dead miss or intermittant miss ect any kind of details will help. I have ridden in several rigs where folks thought they had a miss and it wound up being the road cracks transferring sound through the rig. it gets tricky with loud exhaust and drone noise in the cab to differentiate some times. Once you point out the obvious it is one of these :banghead: moments.

You do not sacrifice your 4X4 you still have it like normal. But since the splitter mounts to the back side of the t-case you can not split gears in 4x4 the splitter needs to stay in neutral.

You are talking about the Gear vendors OD/Underdrive units. They are built extremely stout but you only have use of it in 2wd as they mount on the back of the t-case. I know of one locally on a 650hp cummins that sled pulls and it has held up flawlessly for years already. I have personally installed 2 or 3 over the years and if you are on the open road a lot they will pay for themselves over time but for a daily driver I wouldn't waste your money. They are spendy and it would take a few years of general daily driving to recoupe the price.

Technically if you put a hybrid HX35/40 it is still on a stock based turbo. Nothing stating the stock HX35 can't be modified. --- Update to the previous post... Your 99 should have came with an HX35 the HY didn't come along until later on. There is an ID plate on the center section and will say HY or hx 35 for a model. The Hx has a boost elbow with a hose attached to it and the hy doesn't the hy has an external linkage that controls the wastegate.

Vanaaken went out of business a couple years ago already and no it would have nothing to do with the lift pump issue.The Vanaaken was comparable to an edge EZ.

Just pull the head and find out like I told you 2 weeks ago.

Yes this info refers to 2nd gens only, i WAS NOT AWARE THE 2ND GEN MANUAL CALLED OD OFF "TOW HAUL" oops hit the cap lock. The 3rd gens have both functions "except for 05" they have or can have an actual tow haul and OD off function.

I have to appologize here I edited my prior post. The 2nd gens are mechanical and Mike is correct in checking and adjusting them, the 3rd gens are digital/electronic.

Not so fast Mike, he has no info on what year rig he has here, the 3rd gens have a digital display. Edit> I need to appologize and correct myself here all 2nd gen do have mechanical indicators like Mike stated and his procedure would be correct, I had a pre coffe brain fart.

I just scanned this thread and I come up with 2 issues, there can be No OD/Tow haul mode in the 2nd gens which brings me to the second point that the builder either misrepresented what he was doing or it is a simple miswording.The 3rd gens have a tow haul mode which does as you state it holds the converter in lockup mode longer so it doesn't lock and unlock as often this was how it worked through 05, 06 is when they offered OD/Tow haul which if you hit the OD button once it goes into tow haul mode if you hit the od button twice it turns od off.This is programmed in the pcm, 2nd gens do not have this and are not capabler of this. you have od on off and that is all. With a modified valve body they up the pressures and can change shift points but there is no tow haul mode.The early 3rd gens up to 04.5 could be reprogrammed to gain both tow haul and od off but the 05 year could not be programmed to get both but there are aftermarket shift control boxes that will turn off OD.

IIRC I gave $26K for my 02 used it had 18k miles on it and wasn't even a year old yet as per mfg date on door stickers.

Nothing to worry about, it is normal, most of it comes from the converter clutches and bands as these 2 are the most active clutch surfaces and do wear over time.

Is it actual shavings or more silt like residue? It is 100% normal for silt to accumulate and for the magnet to have iron silt on it. if it is chunky then there could be an issue developing.

Tell that to a banker or a dealer or better yet your insurance adjuster once it gets wrecked. If it was 40 years old and eligable for "Pioneer" status then I could see the value in its current shape but not now. Its just another hunk of iron on the road.

Well someone wants it awefully bad as the bid is at over 27K so far. thats almost 10k over book value. Nice rig but book price is book price for a stock rig no matter what in my opinion.

I carry a Triple AAA card also a spare fuel filter and serpentine belt and what ever tool would be needed to change each.

Good find and info for all.:thumbup2:Turbos also overspeed due to a plugged air filter. Use a vacuum cleaner as an example.When you put your hand over the hose to block it off most think it is working harder. In reality it is not working at all anymore as it went into a no load situation and it speeds up because it is in a state of vacuum with no air to pump. So to put it back into terms of a turbo when you have a restriction or plugged or dirty air filter it reduces the amount of air its pumping or creating a vacuum and its being pushed at the same rate it will overspeed and many times will cause damage to the turbo.

Well there are 2 issues here, one is that the pins in the obdII connection are the most prone to getting stretched open and or pushed out of the connector. This is a super common issue.Second the snap-on scanners can not do or see nearly as much as the OEM diagnostic tool.

Flush the power steering system and put synthetic fluid of your choosing in it. I am Amsoil crazy.I would break down and take it to the dealer and pay the 50 bucks and have a factory diagnostic tool hooked up and go from there. I know it goes against our beliefs but some times it is way easier and faster to find issues that way as the factory reader can see most issues and or narrow it down at least. I see so many threads where folks throw hundreds or thousands into just swapping parts rather than pay the 50-75 buck diagnostic fee and then replacing a 50 dollar part. The dealers are not always wrong or bad. They are in business to make money not to give away free information.:thumbup2:When it comes to a rare issue like you are having it would pay and save time to do this. You would be utterly amazed at what a good tech can read with the diagnostic tool when it comes to wiring related issues. I have had a DRB in my hands at a dealer that a friend of mine works at and they are extremely impressive even to me who has worked with other scan tools over the years.

Just for reference Volkswagon doesn't want their TDI's to idle at all, start them and drive them easy for a couple miles and then normally. They emphasize and repeat this all over the owners manual.Personally if its around freezing I just wait for a minute or so and then go easy for a couple miles if below freezing I let cylinder temps get built up a bit usually let it at minimum run until grids quit cycling then go easy for a couple miles. If the temps are above 50 I let the oil pressure come up and go, if I am pulling a trailer I will go easy first couple again.Having been around pretty much every application a diesel can be in and working on them I have seen no adverse effects or any shorter engine life by starting them and just putting them to work in cold weather without much warm up.

When an injection pump dies there is no set symptom but rather many goofy symptoms each has its own way of letting you know it day has come but as said above the pump is dead already so no need to dwell on it just time to swap and get a fuel pressure gauge installed to help possibly prevent the next pump failure due to no fuel.

I can guarantee his spider gears were about as red as the rim after doing a one wheel burnout like that, his carrier and spider assembly are junk now too.

I have read through both posts here and at dts and nobody has asked the basic questions.Did you do anything to the rig before this happened replace vp44 ecm or add on any accessories that tapped into the wiring ect?How long have you owned this rig and did the gauges quit while you have had it. Reason I ask Is I did some research on ecm interchangability a few months back and found that the issue you are having can come down to the wrong ecm on the engine. Different year ecms will install and the engine will always run but the primary issue with having a different year ecm is the gauges do not work as well as some other functions like cruise ect.Make sure all pins are pushed into the connectors as well grab every single wire and make sure it is snapped into the connector at both ends. This is a common issue. also it is good to get a replacement male pin to insert into every female recepticle, I deal with this on certain pieces of equipment on a regular basis. the female recepticles can stretch open and will create a non contact issue so by inserting a male pin into every single female socket /recepticle you can feel if it has a snug or loose fit.

From my days at a gear shop it is actually more important to put a trans temp gauge in a manual if you tow heavy than it is in an automatic. You would be simply jaw dropped amazed at how hot manual trannies get when working them hard. If you don't tow heavy then I wouldn't worry about either a trans or fuel gauge on a 12v.Going 5 inch just adds weight and takes up more space under the rig and costs more than 4" which is good to around 800hp. There is absolutely no need for 5" on our rigs no matter what anyone says it is nothing but a bragging point. There are rigs running over a thousand hp on 4" exh.

Well my wife and I did a huge house remodel this last spring and bought all new stainless steel kitchen appliance and have spent a fortune on about every type of cleaner and found nothing that would clean them up without leaving streaks ect.Well during thanksgiving I had a conversation with some retired folks who work in church kitchens with lots of stainless and they said what works best is the cheapest and simplest product yet.Buy Isopropyl alcohol and put it in a spritzer bottle. It cleans it up so easy and streak free it is amazingSo those with the same issue here is the tip of the year.