Me78569

4k tune is also posted in this section

The beta release for 4k was 2 days ago so you don't have v2 tuning. the old 4k tunes are not smooth...they are a race only tuner. I would NEVER recommend the 4k box if the truck touches the street. load the beta 4k tune if you like, it's hosted in this section. it's much smoother, but still a race type box. If you want smooth power you should get a standard ADR Honestly the 4k box is the wrong tuner for your application.

What tune is loaded on the 4K? V2 tuning or older tunes? What are your custom tuning settings? Why do you have a 4K box without supporting mods like springs, rods, and studs? that's asking for trouble.

really comes down to if you have a skill you can leverage from home? The whole work from home thing is great in theory, but in practice it tends to be much much easier to make money at a job someplace. Skill sets that lend themselves well to contracting - coding - web management - various consulting - some form of art / design of niche nick nack stuff so what skills do you have that you can leverage into making money?

Rock Auto for none speciality stuff

Like I said you charge too little for your expertise

You are already gonna be in there doing studs so I would say just do springs and rods for peace of mind. Rods aren't really needed springs are quesitonable, but as with all of us we tend to build and build and build. I like knowing my valve train is in good shape, I never rev out to to 3700 like the Quadzilla can do, but it is nice to know that I can stick it in 2nd and not worry.

First time in my life I am happy to see the emissions test notice in the mail. Time to give the state money. I will be curious how much power I put down with my %100 clean tune.

so what was all that 8 hole talk?

Honeslty just one with a good warranty, Test it when you install it and go from there. If you have a good alternator shop local go talk with them.

10 to 1 odds on Weston. I still need to find time to chat with him about 8 hole injectors hahaha.

I think Mike's point is if you have to add grounds to resolve a serious issue, then there is likely something else going on. Adding a gorund is not a bad thing, but expecting it to be a cure all is risky. Always ask yourself, if this was an actual issue related to a lack of ground wouldn't OEM have added a Ground? Just don't jump to the "add tinfoil ground" bandwagon without taking a indepth look at what is causing the issue. There may be a situtation where a new ground is required, but I find it way more likely that something else is going on to cause the need for a ground.

The sentence in red tells me you should do it right the first time, even if it isn't %100 needed. I would personally do them for piece of mind if you like it wrap it out ever, well at least springs. However I would put studs on the list as a requirement. without being able to control fueling or timing you REALLY want to have studs holding the head down once you stepup in fueling. 47re + llift + big tires = a TON of load that you are gonna be using the skinny pedal to get around. high load + low rpm + aftermarket injectors = stud time ( at least in my mind)

Upload to youtube and post the url in the reply box. It will embed and it doesn't chew up server storage.

Yea you need to flash the box. the Iquad is only the window into the box.

code 121 is related to your adjustment of the apps Code 1693 is saying there is another code code 602 is that other code telling you that you have a tuner flashed to the ecm. however your shifting issues has nothign to do with the above codes.

meh doesn't matter either way.

Dynamic is our trans guy, I would suggest you follow his recommendation.

Here ya go

Pulse screen custom tuning variables are as follows Custom Tuning variables for the Iquad with V2 tuning the big perk of the V2 tuning is being able to tune fueling commands lower than OEM to make your truck run %100 clean.

When you can ditch the pv screen and get the iquad dongle. It is %100 compatible with the box under the hood and you will open up a world of tuning.

Here are the part numbers https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2002Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=362 page 362 (linked for you) Parts 4(52118500AB), 24(56028196AB), 29 (04617210) to get all the solenoids. I would go with the borg warner solenoid. I have used cascade transmissions to get the parts with good luck.

use the part number lookup tool we created https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

high idle switch installed or no? I would get some dielectric grease and grease EVERY connection under the hood making sure to cycle the plugs a few times to ensure that the grease gets in there good.

The WTS light has 2 roles, Role 1 is to tell you that the ECM is booting. Role 2 is obviously to let you know if the grids are firing. The two do not happen at the same time. When you key on the first thing that should happen is the WTS light should flash on then off ( if warm). If it is cold then the light will stay on as the grids are cycling. If you key on and never see the WTS come on then it means that the ECM is unable to boot and the truck will likely not run. Same goes when you program the ECM you will see the WTS flashing as it is being programmed. Point being that the WTS light is an indicator for more than just the pre heat cycling.