Me78569

how does the turbo spin? is it free spinning? exhaust side leaks? dragging brakes? is the wastegate adjusted or is it blowing up right away?

ok, I don't see how cruising egt's could be that high due to tuning.

have you done a boost leak test? sounds like you have one or some sort of issue post changing the turbo and injectors. how does the quadzilla's default tune run? if that doesn't go like stink for you and cruise nice you have another issue.

Housings came in today Opened up the h7 bulb hole to 35mm for the d2s shaft to fit Easy trick to getting a nice hole drilled, get the right sized hole saw then use a socket as a guide that matches the inner hole. Used a bit of masking tape to make the socket fit nicely inside the hole saw. D2s 5.0 tomorrow Cant wait to see how much better the d2s are compared to mini h1 and the mleds

Nope the batteries are wires in parallel.

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/ take a look through the code troubleshooting.

Nah.

one iwth a 6 point harness.... lol

Glow shift doesnt really have a good rep so i dont know if i am inclined to believe the quad is more or less accurate

accurate enough. All gauges are going to read differently. Some people report it is the same as their mech, others report it is low by 100* and so forth. same goes for all gauges and sensors.

ordered so far. New headlight housing New turn signal housing Morimoto D2S 5.0 new control arm bushings New trans mount bushings Hopefulyl the last 2 will solve my shift clunk and my steering wobble on brake.

I figure I should start a thread, if for nothing else to fill my time. Per my other post I picked up a 2000 BMW 323IT. From the factory it came with a M52b25. stock 168 hp and 181 ft/lb torque, AKA slow. the PO had the insight to swap in a M54B30 + 6 speed from a BMW 330i ZHP. Those put out 235hp with 222 ft/lb torque. needless to say it is a good bit quicker than it was stock. Car has some issues that need to be addressed, but it is rust free and in pretty good shape considering the age. First thing first was the rims, they were from a 5 Series BMW so the offset was incorrect resulting a rubbing with too many people in the car. Bought a cheap set of 3 Series rims off craigs list and threw them on. Next the PO swapped in some Xenon headlights from a later model 325it, but he did not swap in the aiming function so they pointed down to the ground all the time. I am not a fan of everything that would need to be retrofitted to make them work so I ordered some stock halogen housings + morimoto D2s 5.0's projectors to swap into place. I will be using the OEM ballast and bulbs so it is a "cheap" swap. Other things to address 1. front suspension needs to be replaced 2. clunk in the rear on shift makes me think the rear bushings are aging so I will do those. 3. paint needs to be cleaned up and clear coat fixed 4. oil level sensor is on the fritz 5. OEM radio needs to be put back in so steering wheel functions work again 6. headliner needs to be fixed. Once that is all sorted I wil move onto stage 2. which is a few more ponies A low boost turbo setup ( 5-8 psi using a hx35 sized turbo ) should get me in the 300 WHP range, which is more than enough for me.

There is no 1697 that I see verify your codes again 1698 1694 1687 ( guessing) I'd start by putting the truck back to stock and see if the issue goes away. Typically bus errors are related to a short in the ccd wiring or something on the bus that has failed.

Have you looked at our hosted tunes? https://mopar1973man.com/forum/185-standard-quadzilla-adrenaline-tunes/

Grey smoke means your tune needs more timing. Psi at idle is likely the jumper in the box or a map sensor that is old and reading bad.

2000 323it that was swapped with a m54b30 zhp 6 speed drive train brakes etc etc etc Ipaid too much and it needs some paint r&r on the clear coat, but no rust and it drives great.

I am still working on this. I think I may have finished last night. The issue was 2 fold. the gallon trip was never designed by myself to save on key off. took a bit of a rewrite to make that logic work.

Posting the youtube video on the how to Common areas for leaking 1. intercooler boots 2. intake shelf gasket 3. grid heater gasket. Steps: pressurize the system, to ~ 5- 10 psi using the setup in the above video > next use soapy water in a spray bottle to soap up the intake track. start at the turbo and work your way to the intake side of the engine. Spray and watch for bubbles in each area. View full Cummins article

i'd lower the rear personally.

Yep the injectors are fine, but they won't do squat for power unless you keep the ecm from defueling. Thus you need a boost fooler and a boost elbow. I would HIGHLY suggest at least getting a quadzilla xzt tuner as it will make the timing map much better than stock and it has a boost fooler built in.

You need a boost fooler and a boost elbow. Without that the ecm will defuel and the wastegate will open. You wont notice much difference in power without doing the above.

without someway to boost fool there isn't much to be done to increase power. I would skip the HR pump, sell it and buy a tuner.

good to know. I remember thinking about going this route and decided not to due to the rated lifespan being ~%50 of the 9004

Glad they work for you. Keep a spare set of bulbs close. The 100w halogens have a pretty short lifespan rating.