Me78569

You can' t compare psi between 2 different sized turbos. psi to psi the 62 is going to flow more cfm.

no need. but if it makes you feel better go for it

wind sure makes it suck fuel.

We are not planning on doing any more production at this point. The last switch we had stock of sold friday.

P0216 is normally always a bad vp. Look up the codes in our article database and run through the tests.

No issues. The high idle switch doesnt add timing it only makes it so the ecm uses higher base timing in the winter

Codes?

@Quadzilla Power please see @Otto8335 response. @Otto8335 I am not in control of any of the app stuff so I am of very little use to you in regards to this.

Yep

an extra 2x worth of fueling on a stock injector truck. canbus only ( no wiretap ) is ~65hp over stock on a stock truck canbus plus wiretap is ~150-180hp over stock on a stock truck

No

much faster warm up. other than noise there is no drawback

Yep,. Easiest way would be to jam a resistor into the iat plug to trick it into thinking it was always above 40*f out. That causes other issues though. I would say just live with it

@Quadzilla Marco any news good or bad about loading tunes on Idevices at this point? @Otto8335 you downloaded the file and emailed to yourself correct? then tried to open from attachment into the iquad app

Do you have air to match? 6 x 016 will outflow the vp. 6 x .013's will do ~700 hp with the right air

have you tried this?

load your smarty up with another flash that is not "cold weather" and use that. I believe some of their tunes don't have it enabled.

do you want 6 cyl high idle? You can't have one witout the other.

yep, the ford focus was too reliable.

tie rods are in. I also fixed the issue of the cluster and light module having the VO rather than the cluster and ews having the zcs.

I don't. Use the wiring diagrams in the articles section to tell you what wires at the ABS plug. Test for ohms at that plug. Jump the plug at the pumpkin using a paper clip. you should get near 0.00 ohm from the abs plug. if you don't then you know you need to replace wires.

I finally got around to getting the ABS/DSC computer programmed to know it is a manual transmission. Took a few hoops as there are 2 types of modules in the E46 platform, Pre facelift and post Facelift. They use a different method to store the vehicle order / options list. Since my car is swapped some of the modules are pre and some are post. The DSC computer was a Pre the cluster was a post, so there was no automatic way to get the coding and index info without manually telling the program what was what. Anyways I swapped in the old cluster, read the vehicle order codes, wrote them down, then manually told the program what the codes were and reprogrammed the dsc. I now have traction control on and off enabled E-LSD ( dunno if it works or not, but I will find out) Tomorrow I am replacing the tie rods.

Verify that the wiring going from the abs to the rear diff is good. I used a paper clip to jump the rear sensor plug, then used a multimeter to ohm from the ABS. I was getting high resistence. In my case the issue was the junction behind the front drivers tire. It is tucked up in that area and can get beat up with road stuff causing the wiring to degrade.

RV 275's are tiny. to the point of the stock fueling being fine for the lug down testing done. 7 x .009's and stock fueling will not pass the lug down and opacity testing. add 7000' altitude and things change. you would not pass unless you put the Smarty in 1/2 power mode. My 7 x .012's with my quadzilla daily tune ran cleaner during emissions testing than my 7 x .009's and the smarty on 1//2 power mode. It also made ~2-3x the power. I don't remember exact details anymore, but it is posted somewhere.

Dont think its app i think its gear mph and boost