Me78569

meh I've had a suction cup mount for ~10 years and never been bothered even when I was pulled over.

Yep don't worry about it. You might have a aging Map sensor causing the issue. Early trucks pass a KPA value directly, which is easy to read, late trucks have a weird offset that I dont need to bored you with explaining.

The quad is reading what the ecm is seeing until 16 psi then it starts to add on top of it. late trucks appear to have this issue more so than early trucks, but I have only ever been able to chalk this up to odd ECM behavoir. as long as the reading is stable and not jumping you will not see an issue.

it is in the orginal thread

Just around the block. Did it nicely.

Finally got time and $$ to do some work on the living quarters Roof got rubber coating paint. Still waiting on one more roll of ethrenabond tape the. We will finish the roof and it will be leak free. Got 2 chairs and steps built, we also built a counter for the stove and food prep. Put in cheap flooring from home Depot. Total about$350 to do all of it. Still need to do walls but I am done until next payday.

put a switch in, if you just ground it out it will throw a CEL after ~20 minutes. switch pins 1 and 2 together. you can see the wiring on page 2 of that post.

Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (like 4 hours) trying to figure out what happened. If I let the truck sit for a minute or 5 off i would get line pressure and could move the truck about 200 ft before losing all gears again. However when i would lose all forward gears and the truck was stationary i would only be able to rev the truck to 2000 rpm (basically felt as if it was in neutral) but if it was in park or neutral i could go balls to the wall 3700. So after quite a while a friend towed me home and i couldn't find anything on what my problem was. There were only about 5 forums were people had the exact same symptoms. One of them suggested it was a clogged filter and everything settled back into the pan after being off for a few minutes. So $6 later in a new filter and some new fluid i had laying around it was once again going better than the day i bought the truck. This is when i began thinking of the weird rev to 2k in drive but 3700 in N or P. I also noticed when trying to do a burnout or 4x4 launch in the past 2 years of owning the truck i could only build up to 2000 rpm before it started cutting fuel, then upon launch it would start bucking (I'm sure we've all been there) then pull like a mule. This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option. I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask Wiring at the PCM Tapping the BK/WT wire at pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set. What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line. This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code View full Cummins article

The ecm does not report values higher than 204*f on the data link plug under the hood. It literally reports hex value of 0 for anything higher than 204*f. Not an issue that can be fixed rather a limitation of the system

You should look at the datalogs that show what the S03 does for tuning. I am really not a fan of it. you would really benifit from some tuning. Quadzilla or Udc pro. %50 throttle snap take off while towing my gooseneck WOT take off

A ton of datalogging. The s03 became my least favorite tuner.

it may not have had the keyless stuff put in from the factory. It was a option, I beleive it might require a ctm as well as the antenna etc.

Here is the thread that covers the s03 tuning and what each level does. If you thought sw3 was good just wait until you run something that doesn't stick timing at 18* when duration is at %100. Try the edge with low boost fueling set at 1 and roll into it. Putting timing at 30* really helps.

Yea the setup was very air limited. The entire thing seemed rushed..

Vp trucks make power in the 1800-2600 rpm area normally, this is why big singles dont work well, by the time the engine is pumping enough air to get the turbo moving you are out of RPMS and power falls off. For 500 hp with wiretap, 62/68/12 with some 7 x .011 or 7 x .012 injectors. if you are going to wiretap down the road then 7 x .011's would be easier to tune the smoke out of.

7 x .010's are still the best pick for a 500 hp truck in my mind. you have to run duration alittle harder plus wiretap, but they dont require huge tuning working to get them clean. if you dont want wiretap then I would be looking at 7 x .011's or so. As for tuning your choices are quadzilla with V2 or udc pro. Quadzilla is much cheaper and easier to get your mind around, but not as thorough of tuning as udc pro.

yea like I told you on smarty resource that turbo is not going to do what you need it to do.

they didn't bother to clean up the 7 x .012's just they threw fuel at it.

they are prob the same ones we have hosted here Really though guys it will function no differently than any other android device. It is just a Kiosk app, you can download one yourself if you like and setup the exact same thing.

The monitor is just an android tablet that has a kiosk app created that runs the normal Iquad app. Then they wrap it in a fancy bezel. I would just wait for Quadzilla to release their new screen. I can't believe they sent the kid home on a stock turbo... I am also glad to hear the numbers between the default tune and the custom tune. Sounds like he picked up 30hp by increasing timing to 30* vs the default max of 27* I always wondered about that.

got a link to the video?

I doubt they are talking about the same adrenaline. The communication between the box under the hood is very specific to the Quadzilla stuff.