AH64ID

That's it. I got it from my local Cummins shop.

Mine is a Fleetguard part, let me know if you want the number.

So I guess Castrol gear lube is a no-go for 3rd gens.

Who doesn't make a full synthetic 75w-90? The owners manual for my 05 states that synthetic 75w-90 is required.

Other than a 3rd gen with a stock manifold/turbo sounding like a wet goose fart, you won't hurt a thing. The turbo does the same thing with or without a muffler.My turbo spins for 20+ seconds after shutdown

I run Amsoil in every location on my truck except brake fluid and coolant.

Good luck!

Update that baby! Better economy, less smoke, quieter engine, and PoD if you desire. It's free.

Don't forget that boost is measure of resistance, and not flow. So 5 psi on a 12V head is not the same as 5 psi on a 24V head, just like 5 psi on my truck is a lot more air than 5psi on 05 with a stock cam/turbo.

That's only true if you don't have a wastegate in operation. With a wastegate you can hit max boost at less than max power. The boost gauge does show work better than an EGT gauge, but the pyro is just as important for motor longevity, if not more important.

I'm doing it at 50K mile intervals.

Smarty is another option, and when UDC is released for the VP's is will be really nice. I don't know about 2nd gens, but on 3rd gen's Edge has a reputation of running hot, and superchips/hypertech are cheap. Adjusting on the fly is overrated. Set the tuner for the max power you want/need/can handle and drive with your right foot.

SyncroMax is designed for manual trans trucks that take ATF, but it does list the NV5600 as an application? Seems odd, it must be a syncromesh of sorts. My dad has it in his G56, so well see how it does. Syncromesh is specifically not for the NV4500, but for the NV5600 (among others). I can't find a Royal Purple Syncromesh, so which are you using? Royal Purple lists Max Gear 75w-90 as their fluid to run in a NV4500. It needs a 85w-90 GL4. I am running Amsoil MTF Syncromesh in my NV5600, all of 9 qts with my fast coolers.

Congrats! I know you have been wanting that installed for a while now.

I don't have any experience with them, but I am curious what you find out.

There isn't much to add, other than if you just block it off the ECM will modulate accordingly. EGR effects timing, duration, and the amount of clean air allowed in the cylinder. If the ECM thinks its working its going to try to use it, and I am not sure that's better for the motor. There are people that claim no issues with WMO in their CR, but add a little common sense and well.... As for Cetane, I know first hand my CR does not like it. I get a noisier combustion and a cold motor clack that is very annoying. I can run a 2-3 point increase and be fine, but go above 3 and it's a no-go. But based on some research Cetane is not worth it, lower HP and lower BTU's. I do use it once or twice a year when I will be idling a lot, or slow speed for a long time (i.e hunting and wont break 20 mph for several hundred miles).

The other issue is that it tries to add EGR it blocks off the clean air with a butterfly valve. This would increase EGT's beyond what stock had designed. I really don't see this as being a safe mod.

Big difference between unplugging the EGR and just inserting a block-off plate. The ECM knows there is an EGR malfunction, and this acts accordingly when it's unplugged. That is not the case with a block-off plate.

A mild tune would be fine with a single disc SBC OFE. Much more than that would need a double disc for longevity.

It's not 2009 sofwtare, but updated 2007 software. If your going to run a tuner it may not be worth it to check, but without a tuner I would have the dealer make sure you have the lastest revision. A tuner/deletes will help the turbo last longer, from soot build-up related issues. A tuner, improperly used, can cause turbo failure due to overtemp, overspeed, overboosting. But a 60 hp tune, even a 120, won't have those issues unless you live WOT on the autobahn.

I'm not super smart on VP Smarty settings, but based on your sig line I would try the following. Comp offSmarty S03, Revo Software SW5, Torque on 2 (1 if you get too much off idle smoke), Timing on 2, Duration on 2. Then up the duration until you are happy. You could also up the timing a little more, but remember that injectors themselves advance timing by getting more fuel into the cylinder sooner, thus igniting sooner. I wouldn't run Timing 4, 3 would be the max.

$2500 for a turbo!! Don't tell me you had the dealership do the work? There are much cheaper ways to install an HE351VE, you can buy a good used one for $300-$500. Or an upgraded version for less than $2500. Deletes are the best way to keep the turbo's alive. I see your truck in an 07, do you know the last time it had a software upgrade? The 07 software was the hardest on turbos, and from about 09 on it's been much better. That isn't a mod I would recommend. The computer will still be modulating the EGR valve and expecting exhaust gas to enter the cylinder. Timing and other parameters are setup for a mixed intake/exhaust and not for clean air.

What did you find?Were you able to pinpoint it to a certain coolant temp?

Yes, the DMF is the weak link in the OEM clutch. A solid flywheel and upgraded clucth is needed for added power. Whether you need a single disc or dual disc depends on hp plans.

Try swapping the crank and cam sensor and see if the problem follows.