01cummins4ever

Kinda makes you wonder if this was a rental truck, like from enterprise or something, They are known to take hitches off so people don’t tow with them, The mileage is in line with their trade out criteria too

I take it that the Geno’s dash bezel is not a slip over but a full replacement?

This is probably covered in the Mopar Dodge Chrysler forum.

Glad you got it figured out, that is a clean looking truck

Did you re seal the entire roof with Dicor, and if so did you do the two part system with the pre cleaner, just wondering as I’m getting ready to re seal my roof, it’s showing signs of weather cracking and discolored, just want to get at it before it gets to bad

No pic at the moment, but I have 3/4 inch deflection in the belt on both sides with it in the relaxed position, I’ll try and check it later the way the directions state

I can’t see the pic, it won’t show up on my phone, but here is the belt adjustment instructions from fuel boss ) Setting Belt Tension: Slide pump to center under the harmonic balancer. Install the timing belt around small pulley then around large pulley. Adjust the pump so that there is JUST ENOUGH tension to keep the belt teeth engaged. Proper tension for the belt is LOOSE. While this may seem odd, this is a cogged timing belt and requires zero tension to stay engaged. Grab the pulley on the pump and rotate it to place tension on one side of the belt. There should be a loose bow to the non-tension side of the belt. If in doubt, looser is better! Any tension on the belt will cause early pump wear and seal failure. Pumps that show shaft wear from over tension will not be covered under warranty.

No, I'm not running the hobbs switch or even a secondary lift pump, I would try and bypass the hobbs system and see if that tells you something, here is a diagram of my set up, It seems to me if you have a failure in the hobbs switch you will force fuel to run through your stock lift pump, although your fuel pressure seem to be acceptable it shouldn't be dropping on acceleration

Not quite sure on the Hobbs switch but I can see the potential for issues, I think @IBMobileruns that set up and keeps it deactivated, He can probably fill you in on that, I just run straight mechanical, and an old school draw straw in the tank outside the basket and no needle valve, just a snubber, fuel pressure jumps to 16 the second engine fires, been going strong for several years

I would think a band adjustment would be in order. Most likely the external adjustment bolt on outside of transmission, controls the 2nd gear shift I believe, It’s quite critical on the tolerance, I had the same issue as you describe on my first transmission, unfortunately the band was wore to far for adjustment

The only one I got is in the thread that Ibmoblie posted, Its kind of tight with a short bed, If you do not have the spare tire you would have all kinds of room

@Red Ramblerglad you saved yourself from replacing the fuel pressure sender unnecessarily, Although 14 psi. at idle is nothing to be alarmed about the declining fuel pressure on acceleration is, Your bypass valve could be the culprit but for a rude test you could try to clamp off the line before the bypass valve or simply give the valve a few love taps with a wrench of something and see if your fuel pressure jumps any, Do you run a pre filter/strainer in line before the pump?

I kicked the idea of replacing my stock cooler with an aftermarket vs. leaving the stock cooler and adding a derale fan cooled, I went with the latter and got the derale 15960, with the fan on a toggle switch when I want it on,It really keeps the temps under control, the only issue is in the coldest of the winter time I Cant get over a 100 degree on the trans fluid, unless I’m pulling something or driving all day. The fix for that would be to add a cross over in the line before the cooler and by pass it in the winter, other than that it’s perfect for summertime towing. I never seen that mishimoto in my search, but have no regrets with the derale

Personally, I would start with verifying fuel pressure with a test gauge and go from their, before replacing parts,

Looks good. and a proud looking woman too If I build anything in the near future it will probably be out of recycled lumber, I walked into a homedepot the other day and could not force myself to pay the price for lumber, turned around and walked out empty handed, thinking it might be time to invest in a portable saw mill

I did this with the LMC a few months ago, Here’s a thread from the install that might help I should have got the bezel too, mine wasn’t cracked until I removed it, I should have expected that with the 20 year old plastic

I will confirm what IBmobile says, those work great, I used them to change out decals on semi trucks at work, just be careful not to burn the paint, I can usually get them at the local car quest or Napa since they carry body shop supplies. If you do start to burn the paint a heat gun and a good razor blade helps too

Even 275’s will smoke a little when xzt is set on level 3, nothin major but you can control it with your right foot, you do need a boost elbow, the xzt has the boost fool so it don’t throw a code, you should see about 30 psi. on the boost I think 300 hp is a good ball park figure if upgrading a stock 235 hp motor

I did the RV 275’s, and quad xzt at the same time a few years ago, I seen about a 1.5 mpg that put me around 19.5 to 20 on flat highway, around 18.5 on hilly roads, After the injectors settled It seemed to loose about .5 mpg or so, but still not bad and better than the 17~18 I was getting before, but that was also on summer fuel, Like others say, The adrenaline is good if you want to play the tuning game and get it all dialed in, but not for fuel mileage alone, the xzt works well if you just want to flip a switch

nice... I'm sure some pics comming soon

That’s a lot of tractor, are you going to get a trailer to transport that beast

yep, and orange is about the same price as green, but keep in mind no matter what color you get you better have a dealer that you can trust, even if its a little farther out, they pretty much own you, at least until the warranty runs out, New tractors are nice, they are meant to be a lifetime investment, just make sure you get one big enough for your purpose and maybe a size or two bigger for future upgrades, I do like my 28 year old Kubota, even though I run her hard sometimes, I wished I had few more ponies under the hood, I just keep it maintained and I'm sure I can see many more good years, I really do enjoy the smell of black diesel smoke and fresh plowed dirt in the morning

Do you still have to drill holes in the water to go fishing

Ya, I remember your thread on rebuilding that, just wondering how that turned out, never heard much after but now I Know why At any rate keep the faith and things will turn around, women can be crude creatures, and I really mean creatures too. Kids are the best of all