01cummins4ever

@Russ Roth, I’m sure your no stranger to this path, stay strong and keep the faith, prayers can be our only answer and go along way, prayers sent for you and your family And to all of us others battling the aches and pains of getting old

Have you checked for boost leaks? they can lead to excessive egt’s. well it looks like @Me78569beet me to the reply, but anyway message sent

When fully loaded with my fifth wheel I have the rear end loaded to the max on pin weight, I have never had to go above 60 psi on the bags to level things out, when empty I generally just keep the minimum of about 5 psi. in the bags, you will like having these, it really helps on the heavy loads to keeping it level and reducing sway

^^^^^^ I did mine this way too, without the T, glad I did. The Schrader valves are mounted on a bracket zip tied to the receiver hitch

Looks like your on the right track fixing that rust, after 18 years my truck finally showed a rust spot about the size of a dollar bill in the lower door corner, it’s not all the way through yet but just starting to bubble and flake, I’ll be cutting it out and welding in a new patch, luckily it’s in the rocker panel area where it will be easy to paint match. Keep us posted on your progress

I installed the old school drawstraw the same as @Mopar1973Man did it at the same time when I did the fuel boss, I just wanted it as simple as possible, it works flawlessly, I cut the length of straw off the bottom about 1/8 of an inch too. Just for a trial run after instal I ran it to town where their is a few stations and went until the fuel light illuminated and watched the lie o meter until it said I had 30 miles left, I chickened out and pulled into a station and dumped 32 gallons in. Before I went this route I had a draw straw in the fuel basket, I’m sure I cut it to short as I would start sucking air at a 1/4 tank, Then their was the time I backed down the boat ramp with a 1/4 tank, with my old set up, truck was idleing as I was backing boat off trailer then it just quit now every time I hit that ramp truck has a half of tank or better, it’s fairly steep

Welcome, and it really sounds like you have done your homework and are of to a good start on your truck, As my experience with the 47re, a single disk billit TQ at minimum for the Hp increase your after and towing at the same time, but anything more I would suggest just going with a triple disk if getting into heavy duty towing and leave room for more power in the future, Im not to Keen on shift kits but a well built valve body with the ability to lock up 2nd is vital when towing along with a good trans cooler system. Like said above @Dynamic would be a good resource and it looks like he is in your neck of the woods Im on my 3rd 47re in the last 18 years, should have just built it right the first time, and it still ain’t

Maybe @AH64ID can help you out

Yep, member that one too lol!

those LiL’ Red Express Trucks bring back memories

Why do I see a “cars theme” center console pad in the future.... since my truck is an auto, my right elbow is always looking for a place to rest

Glad to hear you made it ok, hopefully you get some moisture soon and help with all the chaos,

@JAG1 I’m glad you guys were spared from the extreme fire danger, you just described the forecast we’ve been under for the last several years, It’s not uncommon anymore to see a hundred thousand of more acres up in flames somewhere here in the state, It sucks dealing with it and all the smoke but in reality I believe it’s just nature’s way of thinning out the overgrown forest, they all bounce back in time we just have to accept it for what it is cause you ain’t going to stop it. Ons side note it’s been in the high 80’s here in the mountains of Colorado, yesterday it was 85 at my place at 7500ft. Tonight a cold front dipping down from the north, they are calling for 6-12” of snow where I live. ( ya it’s still summer ) We shall see, it may put out some fires if nothing else

Did. You guys roll out a whole new EPDM on the roof, I’ve seen where that could be a tedious and labor consuming job, Just wondering because mine is showing some light weather cracking, I might try some of that brush on sealer if I can find something that works well and looks good These are a godsend when it comes to roof vents, I like them for the fact you can leave your vents open all the time, even during rain or going down the highway

Wow! A 2nd gen mega cab

Here’s how I did it, done this a couple years ago during the winter, I didn’t use a template nor did I have another truck to measure off, you really don’t even need a tape measure either after removing the overhead console and headliner, I used a spade it the same diameter as the factory holes that are punched in the sub roof, this is just to get a mark dead center of the hole Then just drilled with a small pilot hole up from the bottom Then I moved to the top and drilled down with an 1 1/8 hole saw I used these factory teardrop lights off a 96 dodge they came with the factory harness too. If you are using this style you will have to move the light forward of the hole about a half to 3/4 inch to allow more room for the screw holes around the large hole The gaskets were also in good shape, and just to make install easier and mess free and if I had to change a bulb in the future I did not use any sealant either, couple years later and no leaks

All I can say is I’m still running my original Bosch and now at 340000 mi.I’ve never done anything to it and it’s never exceeded recommended A/C ripple either, I also never have disconnected grids as they get used quite frequently here in Colorado even in the summer mornings 40 degree or below is fairly normal. I have done the w-t ground mod just for good measure and becouse it just makes since to an even electrically challenged individual like myself. With that said, If my alternator was to give up tomorrow I’m not sure a Bosch replacement would give the same performance being its just a gamble as with the quality of everything else these days, However if Im in that situation I would definitely look into the nations alternator being that they have a robust reputation, they are a bit pricey but if you’ve had to buy two or three alternators you could have paid for one. Just buy once and cry ? once is the way I look at it. I would think along the lines of a good alternator keeping your electrical system up to par is key

the Derale 15960 paired with the ATS 4+ deep pan, or another equivalent is an excellent set up to control the trans temps. I’m grossing 21.5k pulling the passes in Colorado and keeping the tranny temps right along with the engine temps, It drops to 160 on the flat roads, that’s also running the factory heat exchanger and factory cooler up front , and measuring the temps on the trans out put line. I like the idea of the GV gear splitter but really don’t know about the reliability of them either, and while quite pricey too, Im not even sure if there is room with a shortbed and 4x4 either, although it would be nice to split the OD down a half a gear, It seems that the factory OD is a bit to long legged with the 3.54 gearing even running empty, but when towing I pretty much just keep it locked out,

That makes things difficult I would opt to run the DP02 lift pump until you get things ironed out with the 150, I know the hard starts can be hard to deal with while putting a huge strain on the starting system, Ive been their, I’m sure it will get figured out, we will just keep poking at it

In a simple Answer, No. The VP will fire off the injectors with O lift pump pressure as long as your system is primed. and engine cranking sufficiently. The ECM and lift pump do not even come into play until engine is started and idling, This is why if you perform the bluechip VP test by basically hot wiring the VP to the battery it will fire off and idle while taking the ecm out of the equation. The lift pump is programmed through the ECM to give little bumps of pressure during pre starting situation but isn’t really necessary if engine fires off immediately, more less just to compensate for fuel being used to start the engine and then once started the lift pump will run full bore. This usually happens so quick you really don’t notice it if your truck starts and fires off immediately like it should, @Leaky88 Does your truck fire off instantly when hot while the lift pump is disabled?

And I thought you were serious, M73M just making it convenient for you,

Done my foam and skin a little more than a year ago. Well worth the investment, Foam was a little stiff at first but broke in after awhile, I remember just having under 300. In it for the foam and skin, I went with a company called autochampoftexas, The skin was an exact oem replacement

that is just awesome, Good friends and good memories Thanks for sharing

What are you trying to accomplish with this? It seems that if you try and cut off the return flow you are just going to create excessive pressure, Not quite sure if your issue is pressure related or not After long hard starts does truck spit and sputter until it clears up, or does it idle and run normal even after a long hard start? A few different scenarios could be playing out here but leaning toward a heat soaked psg on the vp or possibly a slow and wore out starter not allowing good compression, I’m not sure if the tach will even register during cranking, I know mine doesn’t register until it fires off but it would be hard to notice being it usually fires in the first second or so. Just something to look into being its been known to solve others long hard start issues

So much for social distancing, That seems to be a common seen at campgrounds