01cummins4ever

Where are you measuring your fuel pressure at? I would be very reluctant to mount anything directly or near the VP. here is how mine is plumbed, the bypass valve is used for a regulator mounted in the return to tank, this keeps the fuel pressure going to filter at a steady 16-18 psi

I’m not familiar with the Assassin but the 17-18 psi would be a good target. The 7 -25 psi sounds way to much of a pressure swing but you maybe on the right track by switching pulleys. Did the Assassin come with different pulleys? On the FuelBoss the 24t is on the pump and a 12t. Is on the crank. that makes for 16psi at idle and 18 at wot. Also don’t know if Assassin requires it but the fuelboss is adjusted with a very loose belt, but once roatating it tightens itself up, the deep ribs on the belt keep it from slipping. This eliminates strain on the pump

You don’t need to worry about head studs unless you get into the 400 + hp, I don’t think you will see a noticeable HP gain with the HX but will do better on egt’s compared to the HY, I agree with the above on the HX + rv275’s. without any supporting mods, especially if running a stock 47re, if so stay below 300 HP range. Your stock exhaust will be fine with the HX.

A smart car would not have hit it

I would be interested in your thought on that

These look like a direct bolt on for our 2nd gen. Looking at the install instructions for these it looks like they sit directly on rear axle and connect to inside of frame, that’s kind of what I’m looking for. @Towrigdually how did your install go, any issues?

I would not live without my fuel canister heater, it’s the stock one for the 2001 24v. The first place to prevent gelling is the filter, being that’s the first place fuel is going to gel, running a 8 micron filter vs. a 2 micron helps Im also big on fuel treatment , the diesel Kleen in white bottle works for me, ( but do your research on them) being most stations around here treat to about -15F. I just like to add a little extra assurance. mixing #1 diesel with your #2 diesel will also help but at the same time drys out your fuel from lubercation. When distributors mix their winter blend all they are doing is mixing #1with #2, usually at about 20 to 30% #1. but then again depends where you get your fuel, probably 90% of the people behind the counter dont have a clue what they are selling.

Thanks for the link DF, it looks like yours mount on that perch on block ? The ones I’m looking at looks to mount directly on axle, maybe I’m missing something

I am in need of getting some air bags installed due to my load requirements these days, I am running close to the max payload on my fifth wheel pin weight and have noticed handling and stability issues that I didn’t have before on my older configuration. anyway I have been looking and not to break the bank going to keep it simple for now and maybe get the on board air and controller later if I feel the need. For now I carry air compressor in my fiver so I do have access to air if out in the boonies. I have looked at these linked below, anybody have any experience with these or some similar. They both claim that they don’t work with fifth wheel configurations but I called them about that and they said they will work with some extra drilling? https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6537 https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32082

That’s because they are not designed for 27/7 use. If your looking for the long term you need to go solar and use the generator for back up charging Anymore I think it’s a blessing when the power goes out, we don’t mind being unplugged from society. We just use the kerosine lamps and the wood stove burns 24/7 anyway so we always have heat. I used to have a cheap 3500w generator that would power up the well and that thing could be heard a mile away, but if craped out and I haven’t replaced it yet, I think they sell them at harbor freight for like 300 bucks new. My Honda eu2000 is not enough to power the well. If it’s a true emergency we have a river running through our front yard so water is always available . Winter time it’s a little tough to find running water being it’s froze over, but would be doable if needed.

0 degrees F. Is my cut off point to plug my truck in, and with that I will only plug in for a couple hours before I start it, ( the block heater will run the electric bill up in a hurry) it will start at -5 or -10 without plugging in but I like to give it a little help in those temps yet I don’t want it to become addicted to the cord if you know what I mean. Cant help you on that but maybe @Mopar1970man will chime in

Although 14 F. shouldn’t be to difficult for a start, you may try letting the grids cycle twice before you start it, without further diagnose it may help in the meantime. you can check the heating element in the air intake by checking for 12v when grid is activated and then should go to zero as soon as grid is cycled off, The housing should also be warm to the touch if heating element is working, and it looks like @dripley sneaked in while I was typing again, but you get the picture

That is a lot of filter for our application. That primer will come in handy to fuel it up when servicing, but it looks like it will do the job, I believe that’s a 4 micron filter. Although I don’t think it would work for me, being that I need the heated fuel canister for the winter time I do like having the ability to drain water in the factory canister too. But in 18 years I’ve never seen the water in fuel light on either and I have tested it to see if it works and it does.

A dual feed gas/propane would be nice to have but would depend on your readily available fuel source . Gasoline will be more reliable in the fridged temps, propane might be stubborn to start at temps below -10 F. and not start at all at -20 F. In a true emergency I would rather have gasoline at least it’s more readily available, We do have a propane fired generator at one of our remote shops where I work it’s a big Cummins generator powered by a 460 ford converted to propane and is inside of shop. It’s plumbed into a 500 gallon propane tank that’s used to heat the shop and hard wired in with a transfer switch that auto trips and starts the second the main power fails. Its never failed to start except once when the propane tank was empty, It’s a nice set up, but very expensive. and very loud too. you don’t want to be inside that shop very long when that thing is running at wot.

Following, but listening to your original video and all the different possibilities, just can’t pin point it. Maybe you can shoot us a better video, I had a hard time hearing the first one,

@wil440 Do you mind sharing what filter head and filter you use? I have been pondering with installing a hand primer at the inlet of stock canister, not a pressing issue, but one of these days will get around to it. Just haven't found one yet That looks simple enough to install I haven’t had the need to prime when I change filters, I just drain the factory canister before I remove the old filter then put the new one in dry, then fire truck up, their is enough fuel in the injection system to start and filter primes it’s self. Truck usually chugs a little before filter fills up, but been pretty lucky so far.

With 330k on the clock, and with my current average of 17k a year since new and my current age, I will have two milestones to celebrate when I hit 999,999.9, I will also celebrate my 95th birthday and only 67 more oil changes to go at 10k intervals

No need for an electric pump anywhere in the system with a mechanical pump, don’t matter if it’s an Assassin or fuel boss, They don’t loose prime ( unless you have a leak ) even after initial installation priming is as simple as pre fueling the filter with filtered fuel or spinning the fuel pump with something like an electric drill. regardless, the mechanical won’t leave you sitting or chasing electrical bugs Sad

Looks like they fit good, definitely a good option

I have the ccv mod too, I routed the down tube to discharge on top of front yoke on differential. It stays somewhat wet but hardly ever makes it to the ground. Of course if you park with nose uphill it might increase the drip a little but I usually park flat.

The last time I was experiencing a harmonic sound like that, it was in my work truck (Freightliner) you could only hear it in the cab, and it was rpm related. and the noise just started during a trip, I even called a mobile mechanic to meet me at a truck stop, we could not pin point it in the engine bay or anything. you could only hear it from in the cab and it vibrated the seat too and sounded like it was coming from exhaust, mechanic said probably the exhaust resonator came apart ( I didn’t even know I had resonator in the exhaust) but I went with it and decided to finish my trip and live with the noise, it seemed to help with the window rolled down, but about an hour into it and almost top of wolf creek pass, it let go and I immediately figured it out, lost a few gallons of oil in about 10 seconds until my engine shut down. I will enclose a pic of what happens when exhaust side of turbo blows out. And truck was running fine and no loss of power except for the noise, you couldn’t even here it through the turbo

I agree with mike on the auto’s. exhaust brakes can be used, just more involved and expensive on the 47re, without the ability to lock up torque converter it would not be effective and just generate heat. a modified valve body and a smart controller or a lock up switch may be the way to go. pulling heavy I think it is worth it, especially on the safety side, but just for a truck pulling its own weight, not sure if it’s worth it. You can buy a lot of brake pads for the cost of an exhaust brake,

I can’t figure out how to post from phone either, but messing around with it did manage to bring it up on the iPhone. A while back I was learning a new lap top and on this site I was scrolling around and came across it. Their wasn’t much their and as I was clicking off I accidentally joined. LOL !! Still could be an interesting forum, learn and see some pics of different camp spots and who knows maybe meet up with some members

At the very least install a good in cab fuel pressure gauge, even though the fass ddrp is not known for long term longevity if its supplying good fuel pressure you can roll with it until it craps. I’ve used electric pump in the past, then upgraded to a mechanical pump and never looked back. you can get a single gauge mount on the steering column if a double or triple mount is not in the budget .

Ya, I’m glad I did this as I was testing my batteries because of Slow hard start when temps dropped bellow 10 degree F. I found the drivers side battery had a dead cell, probably been running on 1 battery for the last month or so, and as I was checking drivers battery ground to engine cable, I was going to soldier a new lug on it until I opened it up and saw this I did new cables and terminals a few years ago, all except for this one, time got away from me and never finished it until now, so I got this one buttoned up with new cable and lugs and a new military terminal like the rest of them