01cummins4ever

Looking for a spot to drill for new draw straw and looks like there is a difference between longbed tanks like @Mopar1973Man and shortbed tank, If I install at the high point the tank which is toward the rear Im not sure there is enough clearance between the top of tank and bed for the DS3 fitting, It looks like I may have to find a flat spot toward the front of the canister as long as I can keep it out of the way of the float. After removing the old draw straw out of basket, I used it for the return line, I was wondering what to do with the old fitting, cap it off or use as a vent

You have temperatures similar to what I see, and I have had similar situations, Are you sure your factory fuel filter is not the source of gelling? That would be the most likely being the factory filter is around an 8 to 10 micron, Does it have the factory fuel heater on the canister? and have you verified it’s working. My factory fuel heater quit on me this winter and at those temps I have had to resort to heating the filter with a propane torch in a pinch to keep it running, until I can get some engine heat going. I used to have a frame mounted raptor and it came with that pre filter screen but ended up not installing the pre filter screen, raptor worked for several years until it crapped out, and I went with a mechanical fuel pump and it has a 24 micron pre pump strainer and even that has not had any affect on fuel flow in cold temps.

Is their an article on how to install a draw straw tube, I am deleting the in basket straw and installing it out side the basket, I know @Mopar1973Man had some post for one but cant seem to find anything

I pulled the trigger on these, I dont know what the difference in the foam quality is but will post the results when I get it together, this seems like a reputable American upholstery company, we will see 1998-2002 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Quad-Cab -Driver Side Bottom Cloth Seat Cover Tan 791321456637 eBay.URL 98-02 Dodge Ram 1500 2500 3500 SLT Laramie -Driver Side Bottom Seat Foam Cushion eBay.URL

Lookin good, keep the pics comming

If you see temps colder than -15 then a heater is bennificial in the fuel canister. If fuel is going to gell it’s going to gell in the filter and plug it. You mostly need the fuel heater at initial start up and until you build engine and fuel heat other than that, unless it’s -20 or colder with extreme wind chills the heater is not doing to much driving around in moderate cold temps I don’t know how the 12v heater is set up but the 24v is a two part system with a thermostat that triggers the heating element, mine is do for replacement but not do to leaking but either the thermostat or the heating element quit. sometimes in the really cold mornings I’ve had to heat the canister with a propane torch to maintain fuel pressure until I got engine heat going, I’m just going to replace both pieces and be done with it, they are reasonably priced.

Snow totals passed 100” for the season so far at my place, still have 2 good months of snow season left not including the May and June snow storms. This last system called the “pineapple express” dumped about 2.5” of water with a foot of new snow. Finally found a easier way to clean the driveway, I thought the youngest how to do it, there comes a point when everything has to be stacked side to side Not much to get excited about but seen my first chunk of gravel since Christmas , a good sign of things to come

I would have to see it to believe it, that trans dip stick looks like a 47re. Although I would Iove to have a gear vendors overdrive, have heard great reviews from them, just can’t come up with 4000k to have one.

No lack of snow here in the southern end of the state. We are just around average here. about 80” so far.

I’m still running the original starter at 320k, The only thing that has been done to it was the solonoid contacts were replaced at around 180k, for a cost of about 10 bucks, quite common for those contacts to wear pre maturely, could have been what your oem starter may have needed. The OEM starters are basically a high mileage item. Kind of Iike my original Bosch altenator, 320k miles and still works flawlesly, that’s an item if and when it goes out I would not trust a chain store replacement and would spend what ever it takes to replace or rebuild as good as original. As as far as the chain store electrical junk, it’s just a crap shoot if you get a good one or not, and the odds not in your favor. They probably spend more time cleaning it up and making it look new than they do rebuilding it.

I was referring to the tank on the truck Being a 2001, does it have the factory heated canister?

I would think that the other truck had pourley maintained fuel filter, or even running to fine of a filter. even water in the tank can have the same effect on clogging a filter that gelling does in cold temps. especially after filling a tank that has standing water in the bottom and your just stiiring it up and running it through the system. I’ve had 2 instances in the last 3 years, the first was when I pulled the factory canister off the summer before to clean it and forgot to plug it back in I was reminded one cod winter morning when my truck died ideling warming up in the driveway. The 2nd was a few weeks ago, same scenario but I was watching the fp gauge slowly go down, it was -15 and I knew what was happening. In a panic mode I ran in the garage grabbed a propane torch and started heating the filter canister and got good pressure back until I figured I had enough engine heat to help warm the canister. When day light came I was checking things over and found that I had a blown fuse for the fuel heater and also drained some out of the water separator valve and noticed I did have excessive water in the filter. with my fuel boss running off the crank in front of engine I have been tempted to insulate it just for gereral practice but with all the fuel volume running through I just don’t know if it’s nessesary, I usually just grab what ever is handy at the time for a winter front. sometimes it’s a mud flap stuck between the radiator and charge cooler or a piece of card board, this year I grabbed the welcome mat off the front porch, fit perfectly

Generally treated fuel is mixing #1 with #2, diesel. Depending on the mix ratio is what determines the cloud point in which diesel will gell. Around here in Colorado it’s usually around 25 to 30% # 1 and they advertise it to being treated to -15. Anything under that your basically on your own. I still don’t trust what comes out of the pump and add my own treatment,

^^^^. same here, I upgraded from my stock single headlights a couple years ago with the sport headlights from DAP, The headlights themselves are of good quality, I’m still running the bulbs that came with them but I know they leave room for improvement, I would be interested what others have used for bulbs.

Where’s the snow

I tend to not spoil my truck with plugging it in all the time. one thing it can double your electric bill if not careful. and I like to know my truck will start when away from power on the sub zero mornings. But lately when below zero, it does get about 45 min.to an hour on the plug but that’s just cuz she is showing some age, Other than that it’s been nothing but grids

Ya, with a CDL thier is 0 tollarance no matter if it’s medical or not, still illegal on the fed level. @Mopar1973Man I’m sure you’ve done the research on the situation and with all the driving you do, Is cannabis legal in Idaho for med. purposes ?

Yes, it is very loose without anything attached to it

The lever on the valve should be positioned at 12;00 (sticking straight up) to have max fluid flow. If I remembet right with the rod attached on both ends it sets at about the 3;00 position (level) as the weight from load pushes frame closer to axle it forces the rod and lever upward. thus opening valve up. I can take a better look at mine, but I left the rod connected to the lever and disconnected it from the axle mount then tied rod off with zip ties with the lever in the upward position, I just don’t remember how I tied it, I have been meaning to install the bypass kit but it’s one of those out of sight out of mind things lol

It even takes quite a load on truck to get it to activate to get full fluid flow to the rear brake cylinders, I just disconnected the rod and keep the lever in the 12:00 position. I done this a few years back and havnt had to mess with it and like the way my rear brakes apply under just normal driving. You could do the bypass kit, its a cleaner look but results are the same, I would suggest disconnecting the rod first and see if you like the results before doing the bypass kit. I have read where people have done this and experienced rear brake lock up but I havnt had that issue in normal braking but only in a hard panic brake situation and then it was nice to know they were fully applied

That sounds like a hell uv a good plan Mike, take care of yourself first. Without your health nothing else matters, I too am a hermit out in the back country and would not have it any other way. Glad your doing better. and welcome to the world of ageing, sometimes it dont come easy but beats the alternative.

We had a few 08 and 09 Ford F-350 and 550’s in our fleet at work and finally got rid of them all, way expensive As far as why I chose the Cummins, I bought it back in 2002, and had a 6.5 Chevy diesel from mid 1990’s era (junk) before that and I just come to the inclusion that the in-line 6 diesels were the proven tried and true Industry standard for longevity. Having messed with some old Cummins and cat v8 diesels driving big rigs, I just could not bring myself to own one. and the little 6bt and isb engines had proven themselves in the 12v and 24v market through the 90’s and that’s when I dove in and purchased my truck used, 1 year old and 15,000 on the clock. and have never regretted it. and besides I would rather buy 6 injectors than 8 the less moving parts the better IMHO

I dont think I could live with snakes in the house. I freak when I see a garter snake Im just a dog person. I get to bored and lonely with out them

I will have to look into this set up, It seems reliable. I’ve looked into the wireless but seems you have to spend 400 bucks to get a good one. and even then they can loose signal with a long camper

@IBMobile Where did you find your camera, I’ve been wanting to get one