01cummins4ever

a little late to this party but while I had my truck in the garage taking care of some general maintenance , I tackled the ground mod while I was at it. I did it pretty much text book according to @W-T and @IBMobile instructions with good results, here is before, not to bad but room for improvement. And after

I agree with the above too, those vacuum lines are easy to knock loose, especially if you have had your hands near them, done it myself, the one that comes off vac pump and didn’t know until blow by was blowing out like a freight train.

Yes sir, that’s the way it’s done. Free wood and good labor. While getting my 6-7 cords in, It’s pretty much mandatory that my dad gets his 3-4 cords of oak at the same time, usually myself, son or brother and nephews help with that. He’s 85 and still will go out and cut a load himself if no one around. He also keeps a 3-4 year stock pile ahead too.

I wonder if the bypass valve is hanging open a little, maybe a small piece of debris, just a small micro size piece of debris can course that valve to give you trouble, Just take it off your return line and take it apart and inspect and clean real good with brake clean. You might also check pressure with a mechanical test gauge to verify your gauge reading

No, not normal, let it idle for awhile and take it for a good ride, Possable you got air in the system. It should build up pressure within a second or so.

I agree the 3/8 line is fine, 1/2 would be way over kill, the fuel boss will keep the supply no problem. Upgrading the small 5/16 line from the fuel filter to VP is a good thing.

That already happened to me too..

My M12000 warn is a pulling beast but will struggle with pulling large trees up to the road, mostly if they get into into a bind or the big limbs dig into the ground. I use mine quite a bit with firewood. but other than that a great tool to have, just slow and easy and don't over work them I really don't see much difference power wise between warn and the cheaper china brands, I got friends that run smitty built and super winch, but warn does have really good customer support, Which is nice I guess if you spend 1500 bucks on a winch, I did burn out a motor a few years ago, still cost me 400 bucks for a replacement motor.

I agree, excellent article, a must have especially if you double tow behind RV.

I have mine straight mechanical, with a 24 micron pre pump strainer also available from GDP. I still run the factory fuel canister for winter time fuel heating purpose, Fleetgaurd fs19855. Check with Glacier Diesel Power, Richard has dual fuel filter set ups too,

I think you will be well within range even on the first set you quoted, but having the 0-60 boost might be good in case you add more HP and increase boost later on, never hurts to have a good buffer zone on your max readings. I think I paid around 350 for my 3 set of isspro, but that was several years ago and the pillar mount was extra. I already had the fuel pressure on the column, but the column mount is nice to havre if you want a fourth gauge, In the pic it looks like it blocks the Speedo but in reality its not to bad. As far as installing the pillar, you just remove the existing pillar and install the new one in its place. How ever to get a good tight fit I did add a 2” long machine head screw at the top of pillar, I just drilled a 1/8 or 3/16 hole, forgot what diameter, through the plastic pillar into the Apillar frame of body, it really snugged the new pillar mount up tight check out Genos garage web site, they have a good selection of gauge mounts.

Good point on the traction on snow, If one is Leary of driving on snow, 285’s May not be s good option, generally on un plowed roads or hard snow pack I use 4 wheel high being truck is a little squarely in the snow, but my Cooper Discover ATP in 285’s have aggressive tread that handles well in the snow and slush, but on another note, if one does not want mud and snow down the side of truck 285’s might not be a good choise as they do stick out past the fender some. I have thought about fender flares but heard they could be a rust trap. Ive been running the 285’s since I got the truck, I think I’m just scared to try something different, I bought my truck with 15,000 miles on it in 2003, The guy I bought it from drove off the dealers lot and straight to a tire shop and had these rims and 285/75/16’s installed, it came new with the painted steel rims with trim rings, but I’ve been running with these ever since , they just seem to fit good

I have been running 285/75/16 for the last 17 years with no clearance issues

This what happens if you breed a Dolorean with an El Camino

The wife and I are headed out this morning in the rain, sleet and light snow to get load # 4. Should give us about 6 cords by the time it’s all stacked and split. The forecast is calling for 10-20” in the next couple days. Might be my last trip up the mountain, probably going to have to buy the last load or two.

I bought a bottom chest for my son from Lowe’s recently, paired it up with an existing chest bought from sears a while back, two different shades of red

You can get the fuel boss in a complete kit, comes with 3/8 fuel line and all necessary JIC and Parker push loc fittings, just let Richard at GDP what fuel pick up unit you have in the tank and he can set you up from their. I just kept it simple by using an old school draw straw in the tank, an in line strainer and factory fuel filter canister for fuel heating purpose since I run in the cold country, It will suck the last drop of fuel in the tank if I let it. If one wants extra fuel filtration, 1/2” lines or after market fuel heaters GDP can set you up with that too.

^^^ I agree with the above, the fuel boss and customer service From GDP is excellent. I have my pump plumbed with no electric priming pump, so far havnt had a need for one. I do use an inline strainer installed pre pump to catch the debris, It don’t come with Kit but recommended, GDP does stock them.

I still have a long way to go.. got maybe 4 cords so far, 3 more to go, so far we been enjoying a nice Indian summer, bad thing is we haven’t had any measurable precipitation in 5 months, still out cutting wood in my T shirt, It literally 65degree for the high, Then in the teens at night. Crazy weather

Here we do it with a 7 pin plug, that’s all I use, here’s a pic of typical 7 pin, text.txt As far as the fridge, No, they are powered by propane or shore power (120v) which ever you have available, The only 12v power you may need is to trigger the gas igniter but generally they are not powered while in transit.

On a short bed a slider hitch is highly recommended,

I don’t see anything wrong with that, that could be Main Street in any small town here in Colorado. If I saw you Id probably shake your hand and say thank you. Its the morons that park a foot away from the curb and leave their extended towing mirrors out that make my job of transporting oversized heavy equipment through towns stressful enough

If your going for a 5th wheel around the 7700lb. range, with the average of 20% pin weight formula you should only be around 1600lb. on the hitch, your truck should be quite comfortable with that.

Glad it’s working for you, it’s a good feeling when you know that you won’t be sucking air if ever caught with a low tank. I just used the flat quarter on the bottom of tank for a measurement on my draw straw with a slightly beveled end, that was with it empty on saw horses

If you have access to scales where you can weigh axles separate. Weigh your truck axles first without trailer, then with trailer weigh all axles again, then with the second weigh figure the difference on the rear truck axle and that will be your pin weight. If if you have a 4x4 srw. Shortbed with an auto trans, Im guessing your payload is around 2400lb. or so, the max pin weight should not exceed that, better if your under that weight but depending on the mods to your truck, like air bags, overload springs, tires, ect... will depend a lot on your truck and trailer handling. Factory weight ratings are not an exact science but more of a guide, but still I would not exceed them by to much. here is a pic of my last weigh at the local cat scale with truck, then truck and 5thwheel to give me the pin weight of 2100 lbs. Another consideration is the axle rating on the trailer, you should have plenty of head room between the max axle rating and the actual dry weight of trailer to accommodate your belongings and still have some wiggle room without overloading the trailer axles . Say something like 3,000lbs. between the dry weight of trailer and what the actual trailer axles are rated for