01cummins4ever

Your transmission in stock form should handle an edge ez or quad XZT and some RV 275 or equivalent if you use it wisely. Very important to keep the trans temps under control under heavy use, a lock up switch and a drive to @Dynamic to install a full lock up valve body would be my first Choice I had my trans rebuilt at 200k, went mostly stock with the exception of a billet single disc, been holding up for the last 100k, but I am having cooling issues with the heavy pulls, The ability to control lock up should help that situation @Marcus2000monster for better understanding of torque vs. horse power, A general calculation 350 hp x 5252 ( torque calculation formula) diveded by given RPM @2700 = 680 ft. lbs. of torque more for your reading enjoyment, you might need a couple of beers and a shot after but it dont hurt to know to much http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/power_and_torque.htm

And don't forget good braking to stop the beast, exhaust brake $1000.+ at least you only have to cry once. or in my case maybe twice when the wife finds out

The only upgrade in power I’ve done to mine is RV275 and the quad XZT. and of course turnbuckle on the hy35 to keep the waist gate closed. The quad XZT is a canned tuner with three levels. Stock, economy (35 HP) and level three which adds 65 or 70 HP. Mine pretty much lives on level 2 except when I’m towing through the mountains I use level 3 on the hills. I usually tow between 6, and 14000 lbs. It holds its own but still you got to watch your temps and drive according to your gauges. With mods like mine I don’t believe any need for head studs and since you are running a gear box, nothing more than a heavy duty clutch if and when your stock clutch where’s out, Do your research and shopping when it comes to clutches a lot can be had for way less than you think. With that said, I would have stepped it up a notch and went with bigger injectors and maybe a quad adrenaline but with my 47re auto I have to take it easy, but the stock drivetrain should be able to hold a little above 300 horse without additional mods .

The low side is around 25psi at 75 ambient temp. I don’t remember how much the rise was until compressor kicked back in but will check it again when I can do so during the day. I have replaced the low side switch but no difference. It seemed to hold a vacuum when I did it, but will double check again, I just borrowed a cheap autozone rental, Yep I’ve read through that a few times, great write up I may change out the Orificetube next time I pull a vacuum

So been fighting this issue with air conditioner since it got warm out and even the last year it was giving me fits, basically my compressor won’t stay engaged even if I have up to three cans of refrigerant from a completely vacuumed system. I have manifold gauges hooked up when charging and can get up to between 150 to 200 psi on the high pressure side and compressor will still cycle off and come back on periodically.( it will drop about 50 psi before re engaging) Sometimes it will not re engage and start blowing warm air, I can wiggle the wires by the compressor and it will re engage for a while but eventually it will quit again. I know it sounds like bad wires but they look alright and it doesn’t matter which wires I move, it does the same thing. So am I chasing an electrical issue, or compressor going out? A clog somewhere? I can’t even seem to find a leak even though it has used a can of Freon in the past about every month or so.

try this site http://www.orangetractortalks.com/ probably more infro than your looking for, but the people on that forum eat, sleep,drink and live kubota, browse the site or jump in and introduce yourself and ask questions, I'm sure they will help on what ever matter you have I just run Napa or wix brand filters on my Kubota just because Napa is conveniently located. Its also 25 years old so its not held to the newer technology and tolerances as yours, but I agree you should use the super UTD 2 in the hydro trans, its a whole different animal than they were years ago and could cost a fortune if you had a failure. I'm sure you will enjoy yours, its amazing the power them little units produce in such small packages, mine is a mid size with over 3000 hours and she still purrs like a kitten with the little 4cyl. diesel. but I did have to replace the hydro trans a few years ago, but that was because I committed the ultimate tractor sin. I let someone borrow it

Can you share a link of those, been looking to upgrade my 18 year old back up bulbs, local auto parts stores want to much for led bulbs, wasn’t expecting a discussion on led lights on a blower motor thread, you guys are just all over the place

When I unhooked mine I noticed a considerable difference in stoping power, more so in daily driving. But really can’t feel much in towing but al least I know they are working

Although exhaust brakes and manual trans are ideal for towing they do come with an expensive price tag for the upgrade, and we’re talking in the thousands here. @keithb7 Your set up is not overcoming the stock set up of your truck by no means, even if you load up your travel trailer to the max you shouldn’t see more than 6-7000 lb. trailer weight, I would check and see if your truck has the load sencing valve on rear brakes, look under your rear diff on left side shock absorber and if their is a rod attached that goes to a valve mounted on the frame that mean your truck is equipped with the load sensing valve that restricts fluid to your rear drum brakes according to the weight in rear of truck. I will try to post a TSB link that explains this and is easy fix. Also you said that you had a weight distribution bar on your travel trailer, to me that seems over kill on a trailer that size with a 3/4 ton truck, meaning you want more weight on your rear axle to get the rear brakes more effective and not putting so much demand on the front brakes. I have a 10k flatbed bumper pull and with a mini x or bobcat or even a vehicle on it, I just hook and go, no weight distribution hitch, it just seems your robbing precious weight from your rear axle and putting more demand on the front and trailer brakes. Our trucks are front heavy to begin with. have you checked the condition of your trailer brakes, they are electro magnetic controlled and besides checking shoes and adjustment the magnets usually have wear indicators showing when to replace the magnets, it’s not uncommon to replace a set of magnets before the shoes wear out. All in all trailers that are 10k or under are not overwhelming the ability of these trucks in stock form even with the puny 47re and no EB. you just got to take it a little slower and be ready for the unexpected. I tow up to 15k with my 5 ver hooked up and boat on my truck and even with rolling hills its ok and I’m confident that the trailer brakes and truck brakes working together will stop me if a sudden need arises. Its the mountain passes that I will avoid if I can, like wolf creek pass that’s 9 miles long with 6-9 % grade. The last two miles is the worse. I run this pass on a continuous basis with the semi hauling large cat equipment and such but I’m set up with an 18 spd. and jake, I will not attempt it in the Dodge if loaded more than 12k Going up is bad enough and coming down is even worse. .

I don’t think you are being unreal on your asking price as in your description, without seeing the truck though it’s hard to say. As far as the 53 block goes I agree if it’s going to crack it would have by now especially 20 years old and 200k miles. But still I would not advertise the 53 block unless they ask, hang in their the right buyer will come along sometime even if you have to sit on it awhile or come down a little more, even 10k ain’t a bad price for a 20 year old truck with 200k on it. One thing I’ve learned on selling used vehicles is to not over glorify it just list it for what it is and let it go from their, don’t volunteer information unless they ask, but I’m not much of a salesman either. Another thing is to look and see what other similar trucks are going for in your area and go from their.

Maybe this will help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWZ75h7JpcE I had to cut the quick connects off when I replaced the steel line that goes to heat exchanger, I just have hose clamps for now but plan on redoing with the #8 push lock and union fittings

I would get a hold of an electronic a.c leak sniffer before pulling and changing parts, they should be able to pick up a leak at the compressor or evaporator. A good quality one like Robinair or such maybe what’s needed

I like the quad xzt a lot. I can’t compare it to the other canned tuners being it’s the only one I’ve had, If gives a nice little boost of power paired with the 275’s. It pretty much lives on level 2 with just normal driving, but use level 3 when pulling the 5ver and other equipment. Well worth the money imho. I will be ditching the hy35 in the near future, and going with the hx35, it should allow me to hammer down a little more on the hills pulling a load without killing the egt’s

https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1140-fleetguard-ff5079-3-8-inline-strainer.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fwww.glacierdieselpower.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3DFuel%2Bstrainer%26go%3DSearch

You will be fine with the 3/8 line that comes with it. But like you have planned, it’s good to have the bigger line going to the vp. If if you live in the cold country it’s good to leave the stock filter for heating purposes. But you will need the 24 micron pre pump inline strainer, mine is installed just aft. the frame mounted bulk head with shut off valve I made I have had no issues with check engine light and I still have the relay in it. I haven't checked for codes so not sure on that one but never tripped the check engine light

You are probably right dropley, 12 quarts is probably a completely drained and dry engine, I was just gong off what the manual said. But before my stick broke I would by 3 gallons for an oil change and always have a quart left over.

For what it’s worth, No matter what people say, their is no bombs inside of tires, I’ve been transporting heavy construction equipment most of my career along with pulling tankers transporting everything from mag chloride to road oils and propane. One thing I have learned is most tire failures are human caused and I would say that about 90% of them. Under inflation is the most cause and mismatched tires either on the same axle or adjoining axle, is the next cause. mis aligned axes is another big one. It’s the heat generated by low tire pressure and uneven mismatched tires will generate excessive heat. Then the tire manufacturing compounds break down and the cords become separated and the next thing you know. Kaboom.. Specialized trailer tires are the worst being they can sit for long durations not being used and deflating themselves and getting weather checked, then put in service down a long hot highway by a driver that just kicked the tires and ready to go, I’m sure some of us are guilty of that. All tires are stamped with a date code and not advisable to go 6-7 years into the life of a tire that does not see much use. especially one sitting out in the elements. I know I’m just as guilty as anyone when It comes to abusing tires, that’s the first thing I do when I fire up the rig in the morning or night is beat on the tires with a stick and expect them to carry a 100,000 lb. plus rig all day. Im not knocking any tire manufacture, China or not., just give the tires a little TLC and change them out when any deforming begins and they will treat you right and not worry about innocent passer buyers getting shrapnel blown at them. just my

I really don’t know the differences in dip sticks, but I have had a situation my 01 with the handle breaking off, it’s happened twice, it keeps getting shorter as I fix it. The Problem is my dip stick part number is obsolete and have to go after market for the price of close to $100.00. Ya, I don’t think so. My fix was when I changed the oil, I filled with the correct 12 quarts ran it for a few minutes then made my own marks on the stick. Kind of a ghetto fix but works for now

I can only speak for the fuel boss as I’ve never dealt with the Predator. The Fuel Boss is great quality and the service from GDP is second to none, You will love it and probably never have to worry about fuel pump issues again. if issues arise it’s usually not the fault of the pump. I went with straight mechanical with no back up pump just for simplicity sake

Yep, you won’t know until you see. Is it the line coming from transmission going to the exchanger or the line from exchanger to the transmission cooler on the radiator.

Might try taking the line off and checking the flare end for any deformation. I would also pull the fitting out of the heat exchanger and replace with a new fitting. If I’m not mistaking the heat exchanger end of the fitting is NPT, and the transline end is jic.

is It leaking from the fitting on heat exchanger

You might want to look into a headlight relay harness that draws the headlight current from your battery’s and not the switch, although the trailer wiring has its own relay and fuses it should not effect your headlight switch at all the way I understand it. I installed the dual sportheadlight relay harness when I upgraded headlights, not becomes I had issues with headlight switch getting hot but it was more to the fact I was doubling the draw on the factory headlight switch with the new dual headlights, in which probably would have caused the switch to overheat and melt. another thing to consider if your switch is getting hot is to not use the dimmer as in the more it’s dimmed it creates more resistance thus creating the heat, also a dirty switch, oily gunk and whatever else is on it can lead to excessive heat.

Your truck came with a trailer wiring circuit installed from factory so no additional wiring or relay needed. Just plug in and go.

The best lighting to have when boon docking, your battery’s will thank you I installed this DC power battery monitor along with the solar power in my old rv, the pic shows the current of 1 led light on, and the carbon monoxide detector which is always drawing power too. The Led bulbs are fraction of what a regular 12v bulb would be. Unfortunately when my RV got totaled I forgot to take all the led bulbs out so now I got to buy some more A worthwhile gadget to have when dry camping. about $20.00