01cummins4ever

On my Kubota tractor I have the original Kubota filter numbers and I have cross referenced them to other brands like wix, Napa and others. Just go to a web site like Napa, I know they have one where you can type in your Kubota filter number and it will cross reference to the Napa brand. I have used that method on a Baldwin site too. I’m sure their are others as well I believe messics is a Kubota dealer and you will pay dealer prices, I have used them for other Kubota specific parts

Is this app a 1 time fee or monthly charges ?

Just don’t shoot one down in a hell hole where you have to bring your cooking gear to the elk.

Any link to those? I wouldn’t mind taking my valve completely off and fixing it right but dodge wants almost 280.00 bucks for thier part. Meantime just living with the zip tie fix,

I bought the nerf bars from smitty built, not long after I bought the truck, wife really needed them bring she’s kind of vertically challenged, and even Ive got used to them and couldn't get by without them. Only had to replace one due to a tree stump.

I was out unloading a trailer full of firewood the other day and a micro burst of heavy wind came up, and I heard a snap from above somewhere, I didnt even have time to look and see where it was and just took off running I was literally 10’ ft from where the tree fell, it all happened in a matter of seconds, The RV has some extensive structural damage on the roof, worse than the pics reveal, looks like some bent or broke frame members and three tree limbs punctured through the roof. Broken window and siding, thankfully I got full coverage so we will see how it pans out, I don’t know how the fix is going to be but either way this was a spotless clean RV for a 2004 model. I know RV roof repairs can be complicated and labor intensive but one thing for sure is I am not going to buy off on a patch job. As for the rest of the property damage, I was going to replace that old shed anyway and cut the trees down but looks like I will be doing it sooner rather than later. maybe with the help of the insurance co, All in all I get to deal with the claims adjusters this week

You are not pulling a 10,000 to 15000 lb trailer on a daily basis and being 2000 miles away from home puts things in a little different perspective . Just saying that the comfort and peace of mind from a new truck might be worth the cost considering the possibility of differential and transmission failures along with other expensive parts along the way. I still hook up my 01 and do 1000 mile round trips through the mountains without to much worry but that’s just occasionally....well. um. after what happened to the RV yesterday I don’t know when that will happen again. I know I wont be taking it hunting next week, more on that in a different post

I too made my last truck payment in 2007, havnt missed that at all, I’ve even had the blessing of the “missis” to buy a new one, no thanks, I know the 4th gens are nice but what are the repairs going to be like 10 years from now. It would be like starting all over with the 2nd gen. With that said, after retirement if we were to go cross country or even full time RV ing., It would be hard to trust the 2nd gen even with all the repairs and maintenance done, and being a somewhat solid truck it’s still going to continue to break no matter what you do to it. And when Im 70 years old ( if I make it that far ) the last thing I want to be is under my truck along the road somewhere making repairs. or waiting on a tow truck or repair shop somewhere. So maybe in a situation like that it might be better to suck up the new truck payment and keep buying new every few years. after all a happy wife is a happy life

I disconnected rod at the shock absorber, then lifted rod to where the actuater lever and rod is at the 12:00 position, If it’s level with frame, wouldn’t that make it in the same position as no weight applied ?

My 01 came with this height proportion valve, I disconnected it several years ago and the difference was like night and day, for the first 200,000 miles my rear drums were barely wore. I did not do the hose mod, the rod is diconected from the shock and valve in the full open position. It really made my drum brakes come alive. im not sure if I got rear anti lock or not, now I can lock them up on a fast hard brake stab

That’s my way when servicing heavy equipment and large trucks with dual oil filters, works good on pre filling fuel filters for easy starts when their is no priming meathods too

Like everyone else says, Don’t try to put a cover up pant job, it would be better to let someone see what they are getting, I know if I was looking at used I would want to see what it really is.

Welcome pics and projects make great threads

The roads between Holbrook and Mesa are on my winter time escape route out of Colorado, usually hit up the Apache and Roosevelt lakes up around February or March. I know what you mean about the two stick tranny’s, I used to use them in 70 and early 80 model Osh Kosh and FWD plow trucks and then add 5 more levers out of the floor board for plow controls and them old trucks would keep you awake all night, after a 12 hour shift you really felt like you done something, now days I spend about 1200 to 1500 miles week behind an 18 spd. over the Colorado passes, I never run out of gears, piece of cake lol.

I am another one who is running original bearings at over 300k miles, I do tow heavy sometimes and have cooked the front brakes good a few times, but it is truly luck that I havnt had to replace my bearings yet. unlike @JAG1 I’m not carrying my load directly on top and have the ability to use trailer brakes which helps tremendously with the 47re

I will be doing the same here in the near future, I have heard the quality of the lmc is second to none.

Personaly If your going for the long haul I would put a stock harmonic balancer and a fuel boss. I had a raptor frame mount, ran it for about 6 years then it finally gave up, but I would not install another, Just was never impressed or confident in it. my distrust in it was bad enough I did carry an extra fuel pump in the toolbox on long trips. I like taking all electrical and the ecm out of the equation of fuel delivery with the mechanical pump.

I searched high and low for a fuel boss failure before I installed mine, can’t find anything on a failure, at least nobody is reporting anything, but it’s a pretty simple system, not much to go wrong

I will be installing my cab light s here in the next few weeks, They are factory off a 96 Dodge standard cab,I believe. I got them from another member here that was parting out a donor truck, It came with the factory harness and has a small two pin connector that looks to be somewhere around the overhead console, but not sure where it’s supposed to plug in, The other plug is a big white one with three pins and looks like it’s long enough to travel down the A pillar and plug in somewhere ( maybe the headlight switch) I dunno, I havnt took anything apart yet. I plan on drilling with a 7/8 hole saw with a pilot bit from the bottom up just to get the pilot hole and then from top down for the larger hole. I too have heard that their is factory pre stamped holes in the sub roof frame to use as guides. But don’t know for sure. Any input is great, for Id like to do this project in a day since Im going to have holes in my roof. and my truck won’t fit in the garage right now.

@Blueox01 Are those mid duty transmissions synchronized or unsyncronized like the larger ones, Also did you have to do a body lift to fit in your truck or floorboard modifications

If going with an electric, you want to mount the sender as far from the vp as possible to reduce the hammer effect from the vp, it will kill the sender in no time. I mounted mine to the brake master cylinder but you might find a more appropriate location as long as you keep The fuel travel 2 to 3 ft. From vp inlet dripley,s photo is a good set up, with the T between the vp and fuel filter canister then a niddle valve cracked open to further reduce the hammer effect on the line to the sending unit. You will want the big line kit that goes between the fuel canister and vp in addition to the fuel pressure gauge plumbing, If ordering through Vulcan or somewhere else just get the installation kit with the gauge so you don’t have to piece it together. You will need both a gauge and a better pump, FASS, Air dog or mechanical

Gawd, I remember those days, When I was a teen I had a 68 shortbed Stepside had a built 350 and I took out the truck 4 speed and put in a Muncie m22 rock crusher, out of a Chevelle , ( that was just the beginning of a bad relationship with local law enforcement) I had the short hurst shifter out of the floorboard the girls used to get embarrassed when I’d reach down and put my arm through their legs, when in actuality I was just reaching down to grab another gear

I’m a die hard Chevy fan, always liked the pre 1987 Chevy trucks. Still own an 84 and a 52, I used to have a few of the 67 to 72 Chevy trucks, some of the best trucks to ever roll out of Detroit

^^^^^ thats freaky,

yep I agree we can have as much money wrapped up in our headlight mods to pay for a set of HIDs, and I know they put out excellent and uniform light pattern. I spent 200. on my sportheadlight conversion and then another 150 on the relay harness, then another 50 on better bulbs to replace the 9004 trying to get better high beams, I replaced with Sylvania silver star ultra, I think they are like 40/65W if I remember right, they helped the high side but still mediocre at best, I am not going to give up on the sports yet , I think they fit the 2nd gen style nicely, still going to experiment with the improvement of the high beams, just havnt had time to mess with them lately, As of right now on the low side all 4 bulbs light up on the dim elaments, then when I hit the brights all elements in all 4 bulbs light up, I’m not quite sure if that’s correct or not.