01cummins4ever

you got off cheap, I did mine a couple years ago, built myself and got everything from Napa including military clamps, cable, heat shrink, solder and end terminals and was close to $200 out the door... but maybe I just paid to much

The larger nut that holds the regulator assembly to the pump housing can come loose when loosining the jam nut. You may have to hold the larger nut with a back up to prevent this. If it left loose you will have problems. @015point9 I suggest you do as @JAG1 described re mounting your pump so it’s easily accesable. when I had my raptor pump I had to adjust it sometimes and it was usually a two minute process. even doing it along side the road

0 degree is my cut off for plugging in, I run the grids all year, I know it will start at colder temps than that, but when you have to leave at early a.m hours and it’s negative temps out I don’t have time to mess with a stubborn truck. Generally I plug in for 30 minutes to an hour, and if -15 to -20 f. I will plug in for a couple hours. Anything colder than that I just take one of the gassers. Starting with an already semi warm engine helps when it really gets cold as it doesn’t take as long to get up to operating tempature and the heat from engine along with the factory fuel heater aids in preventing fuel gelling. I do use an anti-gel in the -15 f. or colder. I also run with a barrier between the grill and radiator in the winter just to help get the temps up a little faster.

GDP Fuel Boss Mechanical Belt Driven Lift Pump System 98.5-07 Cummins If your thinking of going mechanical, give this site a try. Richard @ glasier diesel power will get you steered in the right direction, they have good instructions as to install and keep your factory lift pump for back up or priming if that's what your after. I just installed the mechanical fuel boss a couple months ago after my raptor 100 crapped out . I chose the mechanical pump and also chose not to have a back up electric pump just to simplify the system, I really dont see the need for all the extra plumbing and wiring as these pumps are quite simple and reliable, but your opinion may vary.. I would also highly recommend dropping your tank (or removing or raising the bed what ever works for you) to install a draw straw and to make sure the inside of tank is clean being the fact that you probably dont know what condition its in, and starting out with a clean fuel supply is a plus. I do like having 18 psi. at idle and holding steady at WOT with no pressure drop.

I wil have to see how the hy35 performs, I thought the boost fooler was supposed to help by letting it build more boost, Yes, but for the time being I m just going to keep it simple, I just want to push a button and go. In the future when I redo the tranny again I may be adding even more power and then step up to the Adrenaline

After 16 years I think it’s time to breath some new life into the old Cummins and get it ready for the next milestone. And do it without spending a fortune On the real short list , like hopefully in the next few weeks I’ve decided to 1. Install RV 275 injectors ( I know a little late on the originals) 2. Quad XZT or edge Ez, I havnt decided yet, but with my mild tranny I got to take it easy. 3 finish the trans. Lock up switch Then on the long list which will just keep growing is 1 figure out if I want to spend the big bucks to rebuild 47re or just replace with a manual. 2. Exhaust brake ( I think I would be much happier with a manual ) 3. Interior is in dire need of attention, need new dash, seats and replace insulation including under hood. Any thoughts or do,s or dont’s ?

engine restore.pdflooking at the msds ( material safety data sheets) engine restore is a Naphthenic based product, a a search on Naphthenic oils and you will find its primary use is by machinist as a tooling lubricant and has better lubricating properties compared to conventional paraffinic based oils for lubing and cooling of metals. I could see the benefits of restore in an engine under perfect circumstances, but as a long term solution I would not, Personally I would look into synthetic oil if I were concerned with cold weather start ups, but I am not so good old dino oil with quality filters and oil changes work for me.

That ^^^^ explains it very well

they both have injection pump and injectors but the fuel is injected in cylinders differently. In the summer even my Kubota requires the aid of the glow plugs if its set for any length of time, In the winter it may take 2 or three cycles to get it to fire off if its been real cold

I purchased my safe about 15 years ago. and the only regret is not spending a little more and buying a bigger one. You will realize that the advertised gun capacity and what they really hold are different, say a safe that’s claims to hold 21 guns is going to actually hold about half that if they are outfitted with scopes, slings and clips. If you don’t want to cram your guns in and have to move 5 just to get to one I would not hesitate to go larger. Spending a thousand on a decent size safe is not out of the norm. Going to a sorting goods store or even a lot of farm and ranch stores have them on display so you can open them and see what works for you. As far as electronic or manual dial I really do t know which is better but I have an electronic key pad that has not givin me any trouble and if it did I still have access with a key, I basically purchased one just to the fact that I had young kids at the time in the house so it was much a no brainer. And I really needed to consolidate everything in one cabinet. I never did bolt mine down, I figure at 500 plus pounds that thing isn’t going no where. At least not without a lot of help

I have to say that bumper forms to your truck really nice.. good job

Just keep in mind that us 34 granby to Estes park is closed, November through Memorial Day, at 13000 ft. Elevation it’s not feasible to keep that road open in the winter. You could stil access Estes park in the winter by staying on 40 through winter park and nedarland I believe, then from Estes you would just go east through Loveland to I 25. The town of estas park would be a nice place to visit durring the holidays, usually decorated up nice, and you could even check out the Stanley hotel while their ( from the movie the shining with jack Nicholson ) If your traveling on I 70 you will hit the hanging lakes tunnel in the Glenwood Canyon, a lot more scenic than the Eisenhower with nice rest areas and such.

The only issue I had with the luke's link on the track bar is it was too close to the front diff cover and would rub a little when bouncing around and turning, I had to grind off some material on the luke's link but seemed to fix the problem, at 300k I still got the original track bar, I installed these at about 200k

personally I would look into raising your trailer axles to level it out, I dont know if they have been flipped yet or not but its a common procedure for people wanting more ground clearance on the trailer. If the axles are already flipped,(riding on the underside of springs) you might be able to go with some taller spring hangers, towing with the nose high like yours is going to cause issues as rear sway with all the weight going to the rear. I really dont see an issue with your bed clearance but if their is you might be able to adjust the 5th wheel pin box on the trailer to gain a couple inches, but you would have to raise the rear up more to compensate for it.

Thanks for the detailed write up, I've been wanting to do this for quite sometime, this detailed description sums it up well. going to move this up on the priority list.

I'm glad you found some use for the old dog

I wish somebody would would buy mine ,then I would be forced to go in debt for a bigger one (lol) Snow to plow already, the only snow we've had is usually gone before you can even get a plow to it, but that probably won't last much longer. As far as your fuel consumption, I would think about a gallon an hour if your working it hard, other than Back off the RPM a little and you will probably see a cut in your fuel use

Although running at full throttle is good for the hydro system and cooling, you should still operate engine speed to match the work your doing, but still never lug your engine or run at a lower rpm to couse hydro whine. You just need to find that sweet spot where you and your machine can run happy. What kind of work have have you been doing that requires full throttle all day,?that could be a big factor in fuel consumption, Do you idle back down when exiting the machine, or idle down if doing light work that doesn't require a lot of force? I have been running a log splitter off my Kubota, I can run it just a little above throttle about 1700 rpm, for about 4 or 5 hours a day, It gives enough power for the splitting force I need to split a couple cords and I only use about a gallon of deisel.

I am one that is stil running the factory fuel canister, and with 299,000 miles I have no intensions of deleting it. It provides the fuel heater and water separator, along with a quality Donaldson 10 micron filter changed out at every other oil change or 15000 miles I m sure it provides the proper filtration needed. I also run a pre lift pump 24 micron in line strainer, ( not a pre filter) just for the fact that the fuel basket screens are not serveicable, and pretty much useless. and pulling out of a draw straw It will catch any of the big stuff that may come through. and really critical with the mechanical lift pump and bypass valve set up.

I don't have the link handy but check out DAP web site for thier 2nd gen sport headlight conversion, about 180 bucks not including the harness upgrade. They are of decent quality and nice looking with a light tint finish. As far as the wire harness relay kit that is a crap shoot, I wish I would have went with the bright box instead. My harness came wired totally wrong for my truck, thanks to moparman and IBmobile helped me with the correct wire diagram but what a PIA. You could also buy the parts yourself through a kit or just get them outright and build your own for about half the price.

And the best thing is you can still have an actual conversation in the cab without having to yell over the engine noise. nice truck @TFaoro I know if I was to rely on my truck for my everyday bread and butter it would be in a 4th gen.

I've been wondering about this set up myself, Glad somebody shining some light on it. My long term goal is to have an exhaust brake with a standard transmission and ditch the 47re when it goes out, because I know its heading that direction again. @Me78569 are you saying that the extra expense for a 47re smart controller is not necessary if you do the lock up switch mod? Also how much built 47re do you really need for the EB. and about 350-400 HP?

Yes, It is installed loose, I just hope not to loose, the belt lugs are engaged and that's about it. I was told if in doubt, a little looser won't hurt. On another note, I started to have some wild pressure swings like going down to 2 psi at idle after a hard and long acceleration, then gradually back up to 18 or 19 at acceration again. So I disassembled the bypass valve, it did have one micro size metal shaving in it. I reinstalled and now have 10 psi. at idle then 17 or 18 at wot. . I'm not really satisfied with those pressures, I would like to get the idle back up to about 14 or so (hot) . I have heard you can get shims for the by pass springs but havnt looked into it yet. or maybe I got a bad be pass valve

got installed today, really happy with the way this performs, going to have to get used to not listening to the raptor at start up, its almost like there's something wrong (LOL) I"m idling at 17 psi. and have 19 psi. at wot. It took a little extra cranking at first start up to get primed but after three try"s and cracking three injectors it finally fired off. out with the old and in with the new

That's good to know