01cummins4ever

You might want to check your trailer for adjustments to move the front of jet ski closer to the ball hitch, adding more weight to the axle.

My dad got us kids broke in on wood cutting back in the 70,s, Now 40 years later I am still heating my place with wood and along with help from other family helping him with his wood supply. He still shows up with a husky chain saw but spends most of the time on the tailgate messing with it, I think he does that on purpose If everything was as reliable as a stihl chain saw and a Honda atv we would have it made . I really enjoy my orange chain saws and mustard and ketchup atv’s.

That’s one clean looking Honda

I’m talking injector replacement with the overhead, I know that it’s due, Truck is tight and well maintained it could be run over a million easy if just strictly over the road, it’s only had one other driver besides my self in the last 18 years and he was about a hard *** on maintenance as I. But they have thier replacement plan and are going to stick with it.

Nice job, I’ve got 550k on a pre emmision 12.7 series 60,( it’s not a lot miles for otr standards but it’s a Colorado heavy haul rig) sitting in a 2000 model freightliner FLD, still got all the original internalls, including injectors, but Ive had to replace every component attached to that motor through out the years. I’ve been trying to convince the shop to do a complete overhead but thier mentality is it’s to old and they want to replace the truck and put me in a new one, I’ve been fighting them tooth and nail to let me ride it out until I retire in a few years but I’m fighting a loosing battle with the upper management people. I’m going to miss the old girl, she’s simple and reliable and easy to maintain.

What they said ^^^^ You can search s lot of threads on this site a lot of good infro and opinions.

My overhead map lights broke way back in 2005 or something like that, never got around to fixing them, just haven’t seen a need for them but maybe this thread will get me motivated to fix them. I must be part vampire or something because I never cought on to the whole LED thing, even the wife started converting the house to LED lighting but both of us decided it’s just to bright and annoying and went back to standard old bulbs. We did buy an LED strip light for the RV awning but it comes with a dimmer so it makes it nice and bearable. Even now in the long days of summer I find myself starting up the semi truck and starting the day at 2 a.m and getting a couple hundred miles in before the sun comes up, nothing but good old sealed beam glass halogen headlights for me .

That’s exactly what I did, mine was in the same shape, it looks a lot better with it gone anyway,

well a little behind but I finally got the rv275 injectors installed along with a quad xzt, I should have done this years ago but the performance increase is very noticeable and smoother idling, I did adjust the valves while I was in their and for the second time since truck was new and they were still within spec but reset them anyway. I cheaped out and just done a turn buckle mod on the hy35 for now, although I am getting 30 psi. boost I see my egt climbing up to 1200 real quick on heavy acceleration, I haven't got a chance to hook up a good load to the truck yet but I assume the egt issue may prompt me to upgrade to a hx35 or maybe a he351? anyway got to tackle other issues like getting the lock up switch installed and cleaning that old used and abused carpet. I basically had to rip out what was left on the upper fire wall insulation before I took the valve cover off for fear of crap falling into the engine,

Please feel free to send some of that moisture my way. I think it really forgot how to rain here. We got a couple days of moisture from hurricane Bud a couple weeks ago, It was enough to tame the fires but other than that havnt seen any moisture for a couple months and none in the near future.

Unless your continuasly starting your truck at negative 20 or colder I would not bother switching viscosity in the winter, I may see a few temps like that in the winter but usually don’t last long. Generally in the cold of winter I will just plug the block heater in for a couple hours before starting and that should be enough to get things flowing smoothly. I tend to agree on the recommendation from all the post above. You won’t go wrong with what you have.

@CTcummins24V have you checked and cleaned the by pass valve ? It could have got debris in it making it not able to close all the way Do you have an in line strainer, pre-lift pump that could be clogged

I watched the video above and it does not address the removal of brake rod from hydroboost, If you do not do that your efforts will be wasted as it seems that yours is leaking from the rod seal. a link to a thread that haggar has some good infro httpsmopar1973man.comtopic12890-leaky-brake-booster.URL

If you already pulled the switch and if I am thinking correctly.. you have to replace with a new one. As as far as the leaky hydroboost, I used the kit from pirate jacks, thier is a couple threads on this site showing some good infro but can’t recall where thier at, at the moment.

Good possibility leaking from brake rod in hydroboost, don’t know if the brake switch is the culprit or not but if and when you decide to tackle the hydroboost leak the brake switch has to be replaced anyway, they are not reusable, just s weird way dodge designed them. At lest thier only 20 bucks for a new one

Yes it is visible, it’s been several years since I did mine but remember using a mirror in breather opening to check, even if you were a couple degree off from 12:00. Just take note of orientation of key way when removing vp and when you install the new vp just orient the shaft to match up with the orientation of old vp key way. and a good dose of super glue can be some good insurance

Fires in all directions with no relief in site the first one is called the 416 fire near Durango about 25 miles to my east, about 5000 acre so far with 10% containment. The second one about 20 miles to my west, it’s about 1500 acre and 90% contained the last one just flared up today about 7 miles to my north east, nothing but wilderness and dry timber

That stuff seems to become the new norm in vehicles now, kind of like driving a computer, when it wears out and becomes outdated and gives you problems you just simply recycle it and get a new one, I think that’s the way the manufactures want it now days. Ya I like to keep the 2nd gen around too and even more the old bone stock 52 Chevy

You can’t beat the quality of a stihl that’s for sure. I purchased my 039 new in 1997 and average about 6 to 8 cords a year on it, 20” bar and 64 cc displacement I believe, other than general maintenance it’s never had a failure. I just inherited a 038 from a deceased realative that passed in 1995 and saw been sitting on shelf since. I took it to my local stihl dealer ( he is a one man operation ) and had him check it out before running, other than a dry rotted fuel line and a carb cleaning it fired right up. He also checked his records and he sold it to my brother in law back in 1984. needles to say I will be keeping this one around for it’s sentimental value and who knows maybe give it to my son when he matures.. like when he turns 30 or 40 The only upgrades I have done is replace the sprockets with the new style rim sprockets they out last the old sprockets 10 to 1, a very worthwhile upgrade if yours don’t already have one. I also got my eye on a ms271 , thinking of getting this with a 16 inch bar just for delimbing and cutting scub oak, the bigger saws are becoming a bit to heavy for the smaller stuff and I know my back will appreciate it.

Ya, I agree. a lot of stress on the track bar, the stress has to go somewhere, for now. I think I will put a poly bushing in. I’m sure the Luke’s link will go out of adjustment next, but maybe in the future upgrade to an adjustable

Maybe you measured the lower control arms

I have developed some wonder in my steering, so I was checking all the joints underneath, I have Luke’s links all the way around and they all seem to be tight and I noticed the track bar bushing has a lot of slop, I am sure I replaced that bushing ( it’s a rubber one) when I did the joints about 6 ago but maybe I should go with a poly one this time? Any one got any recommendations on them. I see a wide price range on them from about 17 dollars on amazon to about 50 dollars from the high end manufactures

Here’s what I have, this is with 285/75/16 tires and an auto tranny, and stock suspension. If your looking for the upper control arm measurements 22 1:8 20 1/8 these are from floor to center of bolts I will just include a couple of pics for the pitman arm and tie rod end

That’s tough to watch.

Lake Powell, 5 of us went, two boats and two days, fishing was hit and miss but still ended up with 18 strippers and 20 small mouth bass and a couple crappie and walleye,