01cummins4ever

Reading the interview from The driver he said that it just locked up , I don’t know if he meant the brakes or steering, something is not making sense, the only thing that maybe he locked the brakes with his foot in a panic situation

Prevenatable... meaning a good pre trip should catch any tire deformality up on inspection. especially a steer tire being they are easily visible, Tires just don’t blow out for no reason, It does not matter if recap or virgin rubber, under inflation is the number 1 cause of tire failure. mismatched tires are right with that. No reason that truck could have not safely stoped on the shoulder after tire failure, one thing that I learned from experience is when a tire blows is that your going to smell it and possibly hear the belts separate before the tire actually blows especially being a steer tire where you are directly behind it.

Very sad indeed, what’s even more sad is it looks like it could have been preventable, looks like a front steer tire blew out, I am sure the authorities will be all over that one,

When I had my tranny rebuilt about 6 years ago, I told the rebuilder to just go stock for that’s all I could afford at the time, I told him I tow 10 to 12k load on occasion up done pretty steep passes, He told me he would put a single disc billet converter in it at minimum and a few other mods but can’t remember exactly, but it still has the stock shafts for sure, still just pushing around 300 hp it seems to be holding its own, as as far as the caned tunes the quad XZT puts about 70 extra horse on level 3, which will get some smoke if you don’t roll into it easy, but clears up momentarily, I blame the hy35 turbo for some of that

I would be careful with to much upgrade if your auto trans is still stock : I upgraded my 300,000 mile truck with a new set of RV 275's and a Quad xzt +, considering I did not want to over stress my trans more than it already is with the heavy towing I use it for, but it woke up the cummins for sure and even netted me an increase of about 1.5 mpg, along with some decent power improvements, As far as your boost gauge 0-50 psi. is the one you want,

5 to 8 seconds seems like too long, mine is about 1 to 2 seconds and that’s just sometimes, If it’s taking that long to engage I think I would let it cycle in nuetral for a minute before taking off just to get things circulating,

Power steering fluid is what the system is designed for, so that’s what I use. I really don’t know what the benefit (if their is one ) of using ATF would be, it’s definitely not cheaper you are are going to need 3 to 4 quarts for a good flush

I been looking at those too, just not sure about the fit of the drivers side ?

Kind of looks like when I had to split my Kubota tlb, to replace the hydrotrans, not to hard of a job but I just did it in my garage with a floor jack and a couple of bottle jacks and a few jack stands and some big pry bars to get things moving, Even Kubota only gave 6 hours or so for the R&R of the hydro unit, but if you got all the right tools and parts on hand I guess it could be done in that time frame, it took me a couple of months but that was time spent trying to repair the hydro, I ended up just replacing it with a used one. and still had to search all ends of the earth for one since Kubota did not stock it no more.

I haven't seen any complete articles on hydroboost rebuilds but between this thread and the one IBmobile posted it should cover the bases, @Haggar gave some insight on how to split the brake rod from the hydroboost so you can replace that seal too. All in all a fairly straight forward job, not as complicated as it sounds, I rebuilt mine about a year ago, but not related to my power steering pump overflowing, I did not replace the seal on the brake rod, but so far so good, no leaks

https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/1045991/ or you could go the cheap route like I did and buy a $ 3.00 turn buckle at the hardware store, I didn’t want to spend much on the hy35 since it’s got over 300k miles on it and going to upgrade anyway. About 28 psi is about the max I see which is in the safe zone for what I got.

Glacier diesel power 24 micron 3/8 in-line

I was scratching my head over that too, but how else do you explain pumping out more fluid than the system holds over a month or so duration and fluid turning black. here's an old thread I started a few years back. maybe since your fluid is still reddish in color it may not imply, overflowing power steering fluid - 2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain - Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins Forum.url

air in system could cause fluid to rise, but in my situation it was engine oil being introduced into pump reservoir from a bad vacuum pump seal and a bad power steering pump seal. I chased this problem to no end, their was no sign of leakage from the vacuum pump, but came to the conclusion that the power steering pump was being contaminated and the level filling up with engine oil. When I pulled the vac pump and steering pump off, the vac pump seal was butchered, so I just assumed it was drawing in engine oil from the bad seals. I resealed the vac pump and put on a reman power steering pump and problem went away.

I had an issue like this a while back, Does the oil in pump reservoir look unusually dark ?

Their are bennifits of putting a heavy duty bumper on, Just depends what you use your truck for, A reason so many oilfield and construction company’s and even forest service and game wardens outfit their trucks with all the body armour, so they don’t have to spend time and money fixing all the cosmetic crap from daily mishaps. imho.. just go with a heavy duty bumper and only cry once. I know did and only hurt when I saw it come out of the bank account, after that it’s been

100 - 280, covers it well. In the cold weather you will find it takes a while to register to a 100, on the high side you shouldn’t see anything near 280, generally the trans temp stays around the engine tremp, a little higher when towing or the steep grades, I have mine probed on the cooler line outlet, right on the outlet port, but pan probe is just as efficient just depends who you ask, main thing is your monitoring it

When I replaced my original radiator I just went with what the local parts stores had, Murray I believe was the brand. It is a 2 core and fit good in the original mounts, Cools as good as the original and havnt had any issues in the last few years even with heavy towing and steep grades. I think the original was a 3 core but 2 core is what mine came in , Probably not the amount of cores you can fit in the radiator but more the size of cores and the spacing. and it made sense to spend $200 vs. $600 too.

I get the same symptoms around a 1/4 tank, I just passed it off as low fuel sloshing around in tank and sucking air,The last time I let it go just below 1/4 tank the fuel psi. was was bouncing around like crazy, and ended up putting 28 gallons in a 33 gallon tank, I believe the fuel level sending units tend to be inaccurate especially when you top it off and have to drive 100 miles just to move off the full mark, once mine hits a half it goes down quick

What did you use to split those

lol I can see it now, pull into a charging station, and different grades of charging... price depending... You want regular charge...mid grade charge ...or the premium extended range charge..

back in 2013 or so when diesel prices were well above 4,00 a gallon , CNG was gaining popularity and a few stations sprouted up along the I 70 corridor from Grand junction, Parachute and the Vail area. I haven't really noticed lately if they are still in existence, When the price of oil dropped, and you could get diesel for cheaper than CNG, the CNG use sort of faded out. at least on the public side, I'm sure they still have stations in the in metro areas of Denver and such I still have to drive 20 miles before I get cell service

I believe it’s comming too, and with big corporations like Cummins, and BP in the game I’m sure they wouldn’t be doing it if it wernt to pay off in the near future. Even here in Colorado no matter who gets elected governer they dream of having the state to be run off 100% renewable energy by 2040. even the environment wackos are succeeding in getting the production of coal fired plants shut down so who knows how these people are going to find ways to charge thier systems, Anyone seen the footprint solar panels and windmills leave on the terrain. I hope they come up with something better than that. And for the loss of federal and state fuel tax revenue that ain’t no big deal, they will just find another way to tax us. I am glad I will be out of the working industrial world before any of this takes effect. I might just say F.... it ! and move into a straw hut down in the Bahamas some where. Powered by a 100w. solar panel. Just enough to keep the ? cold.

I love the simplicity of those old engines, I used to drive an old F.W.D plow truck, it had a V8 Cummins with a twin stick trans. But it was a gutless pos for power wise. Never have run across another one of those power plants. I hauled a dump truck to a auction yard in Denver the other day, It had the infamous cat c15 Twin turbo acert, the engine that ended CAT’s career in the in the trucking industry. I wish they were still building engines like they used to.

After installing the RV 275 injectors and quad xzt, I used a turnbuckle on my hy35 to get more boost, (it will be replaced with an hx35 soon)) with that I can get 30 psi of boost but my egt will go through the roof if I’m not careful on the skinny pedal. In a nut shell though I would not attempt it without a full set of gauges, boost, trans temp, egt, and fuel psi. I got 3 on the pillar and 1 on the column,