01cummins4ever

I have to agree, having a written check list is a good idea. It's so easy to overlook things

yep, I wasn't to impressed with it either, Its just made out of some sort of alloy or something and the probe screws into it, then you clamp it on the line with a hose clamp. So the probe sees no oil temp. I'm like you I think I will just drop the pan and install it in the side.

well you guys were right it was a wiring problem, I don't know what exactly was the culprit, but instead of using the hot wire from cig. lighter ( it already had previous splices in it) I just removed them and ran them out to the distribution box. and what do ya know pyro works like it should. I don't know if I like this trans temp.sensor set up, It just clamps on to the hot outlet line on the tranny, I may have to experiment with that one, but I guess its better than having no trans temp at all for now.

I use an air Greese gun for the work truck, it takes about 3 tubes of Greese to do truck and trailer 6 axles. It gets greesed every 3000 miles so I order Greese tubes by the case. For as few as Greese zirks these trucks have, a cheap harbor freight or wal mart would do just fine. Just make sure you get a flex hose and extra tip. And grind the tip a little to get into the tight places. And use a quality Greese like the red stuff or the blue marine Greese. That stuff goes on and sticks

this only happens when building boost, I double checked all connections, the ground coming from the amplifier box is grounded the same place my lights are. Hot wire coming from amplifier box is connected to cig. lighter along with the trans gauge amplifier box hot wire, I also checked lead wires coming from probe and no change, The only thing I haven't done is check the four pin plug at the gauge see if this video explains it better, its a little jumpy but best I can do driving and video at same time.IMG_1134.MOV

So I spent the weekend installing my gauges, went out for a test drive and trans temp and boost seem to be normal, but the pyro on heavy acceleration goes to 0,and when I back off accelerator and boost goes down it jumps back to where it should be at around 400 0r 500. Now this is without a load behind truck, but it just seems strange that the gauge will go all the way to O that quick as the boost goes up while accelerating hard,

Thanks Mike I think I will jump in and redo mine too, since I just put in a new radiator, got to keep it clean

thanks to this parts look up tool I solved 2 problems this weekend in one shot. I was looking into see if I had a fuel canister heater and what it actually was. So I looked up the diagram for the fuel canister and their it was. So great... I go out to my truck and look and sure enough their it is and it aint plugged in. One more cure to my fuel gelling problem when it gets really cold. So to make a long story short, I am the Idiot who unplugged it about 5 years ago to feed power to my Raptor when I installed it. because that's what I thought the directions were telling me (not knowing it was my fuel heater). So then I went to look for my original lead plug for the old block mount pump (which the dealer deleted for an in tank pump) and found that, and sure enough my raptor cycles on and off like its supposed to, through the ecm. and does not run continually anymore with key on. All the years Ive been changing fuel filters, I just never had a clue what that was. but now I do..I feel kind of dumb, but live and learn I guess. thanks again for putting this together. I am sure I will be using it in the future

I am heading down to central Arizo in a few weeks to do some bass fishing, but this lake sounds tempting. I wonder how much longer the ice will stay good?

Come to think of it heat tape works on garden hose so it should be ok on a 1/2 fuel line. If you could convert your 110 v heat tape to 12v. It would continue to heat while driving. They do make fuel tank heaters that work on 12 v. They just stick on outside of fuel tank and you just activate it with a switch. If you add a fuel conditioner and keep it from gelling in the tank it should run through your lines and pump without gelling

I have pipe insulation, from fuel filter back, I don't know if it does much or not but cant hurt anything, as far as the heat tape I don't know how well the rubber fuel line would stand up to the heat tape, besides as soon as you unplug it and cold fuel run through it would probably gel again

good luck on your first outing, I used to have an 8' hard side before I got the 5th wheel, one thing I miss is the convenience of hooking up to what ever trailer I needed, now if I want to take toys I'm usually pushing the legal length limits by inches

lineXed stove top cover, I haven't heard of that one before, sounds like a great idea from keeping things from sliding off going down the road.

finally got a chance to check this out, its a great tool to add to my toolbox. thumbs up man

I envy you guys that post these pictures in the middle of February and you can see the ground, I'm looking forward to my annual trip to Roosevelt, lake in a few weeks where I can go fishing without having to punch a hole in the lake, here I've had about 150 inches total accumulation in my drive way and some of the mountain passes have seen around 300 inches total so far, I've also burned 5 cords of wood since October, defiantly been a brutal winter around here.

yep, I already have the EV2 fuel pressure gauge mounted on the column, Have had it for a few years, it gave me problems at first until they sent me a sending unit that wouldn't give out, but at least they didn't charge me for the replacement.

I am trying to get my truck ready for a trip down to central Arizona in a few weeks and need to add some gauges, Just wondering about the reliability of them, the price fits my budget without breaking the bank http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ISSPRO-gauge-package-for-Dodge-Ram-94-07-p/isgk2.htm

them vent free heaters work well if you can deal with the smell, that's why I prefer the onboard furnace, even if it does take a good battery charge for them to operate. One of the best investments I made for dry camping is my Honda generator, unlike a cheap Harbor Freight imitation, the Honda will start every time and last a lifetime. The other good investment is when my wife comes and she has to get up early in the morning to go out and take care of business, I have the generator conveniently located so when she walks by she just has to pull the handle.

Mine went to about 200k before I had it rebuilt, it wasn't slipping but it would not shift out of 2 nd unless you just over reved it for a while and it would finally let go into 3rd. i took it in to a trans shop and he said the band was so wore and no adjustment left. He said he could fix it got a few hundred but with that many miles I just opted for a full rebuild

out here it average about 1.79 for diesel and the same for gas, I'm lovin it, but got family in the oil patch around Farmington, N.M and they are hurting for work, and don't look like its going to change anytime soon, but that's life in the oil patch,

you can never be to careful on those Craigslist adds, If they don't have a phone number where you can talk to a real person and go see the item, and do business with a hand shake, it don't usually turn out good. at least that other camper has the two main thing you need for camping in colorado. A heater and Fridge

that's a weird price $933. ? If it s ligit, it might be a good deal

I've been following this thread, but never chimed in, all I can say is sorry to hear it end like this, was hoping for a better outcome, but any way I sorry, damn computer mouse got away from me again ! just saying most of the time and Im sure you've heard it before, is the vehicle you got is the cheapest one to fix and usually the cheapest way out. I'm sure 10 grand is not to far out of the ball park for a R&R, with a quality reman engine. but I've seen rebuilt crate engines for around 6 to 7 grand if you could find the time to drop it in your self, any way just my two cents, and If you found the time to tear into your engine it might not be as bad as it sounds.

I just instaled a spectra radiator last week. And before I put it in I compared it to the original and the mounting tabs were about an inch off. I just extended holes on each side about 1/2 inch, other than that a good fit as far as the drain petcock my factory one was really close to the intercooler too

out here on the western slope we have an unlimited supply of beetle kill and at $10.. per cord you can cut untill your hearts content., I usually get about 5 or 6 cords within about a 20 mile radius from my place of spruce, ponderosa and aspen, The only bad thing is that the permits expire at the end of year. on 12/31, and don't go on sale again until April and all the FS roads close them selves anyway. and I'm usually out by the end of February, I just need a bigger wood shed. Ha!