01cummins4ever

When I mounted my air dog 100, frame mount it came with complete wire harness , you might try google search on your pump type and you might find a diagram on line, Should be same as posted above. 2. Fuel pressure reading should be after fuel canister or vp inlet 3. I havnt checked fuel pressure gauge prices latley, I used genos when I did the electric isspro gauge, and it did come with all hardware and mounting and sending unit. 4. It sounds like you have the right sequence at key on during start up, If your loosing pressure during engine running, your loosing power to pump, you might try hooking it direct to the battery and if that helps you may need to find another power source other than the ecm for fuel pump. 5. have you pulled and replaced filter latley and checked your fuel canister for cleaning, that could cause a pressure drop. 6. Personally I like the Vulcan draw straw for pick up tube , thier is a good write up on this forum on installing one, pretty simple and reliable. Sorry @dripley I didn't see your post, kind of the same scenario.

Any illuminating in those warning lights and you are in the red zone on fuel pressure, I have a BD warning light as a back up and it will come on very dim at about 10 psi, and fully illuminated at around 5 psi, I think you would be happy with a Fass DDRP, A reliable and proven pump, As far as fuel pressure test kits, you could probably rent one at a place like auto zone for free, I would recommend an in cab fuel pressure gauge like isspro ev series, that way Thiers is never a question what the fuel pressure is, and you are able to monitor it at all times

I carry a spare air dog, never needed it but it doesn't take up to much space. Being in the back country close to home is one thing, but being a 1000 or more miles and having trouble is another, A spare pump is cheap insurance if the need ever comes. Running your vp on negative fuel pressure is a sure way to kill it. Every time I take the dodge on long trips I always carry more than I think I will need, just like @Buzzinhalfdozen stated above about needing it and not having it.

I just read up on this one too, @Mopar1973Man I'm glad she's on the uphill swing and wish you both well,

I just done mine recently and it made a good diferance on braking. I believe it should be in about the 12:00 position for maximum braking. By looking at your rod going from bracket on rear axle housing to valve on frame, and with max load on truck the rod would be forced to the straight position.

Best to measure fuel pressure between filter and Vp, 21 psi. Might be a little high at idle, but just as important is the pressure drop at *** throttle. I dont think you should see anything less than 14 psi. under load

like whats been stated above, what worked 30 years ago may not be efficient with today's lubricants. I worked with an old time trucker that retired about the time I was starting about 25 tears ago, and he taught me one of his tricks of pre-filling both primary and secondary fuel filters with hyd, oil at every service interval, Now, the hyd. oil and even atf was a lot more pure back then, but even today I continue to do it religiously just because I feel that it gives injectors and o rings the little extra lube, and it is an older non emissions engine and being a semi truck it does get pushed hot and heavy, and with about 500k I haven't lost an injector yet. I don't think I would attempt that with my 2nd. gen, I think the big engines are more tolerant than these fine tuned and close tolerance fuel systems. I do believe that they need the extra lubrication for obvious reasons, I started using stanadyne when I replaced vp 6 years ago, but got to expensive and switched to 2 stroke TCW 3, and about a year ago started to use the marine 2 stroke synthetic blend just because I liked the way it quieted the vp down. Does it do any good? I really don't know, but got about 300k on the original injectors and haven't lost one yet, and I don't putt putt around in it either.

Nice videos, but not a place I would take my truck, I don't think the stock suspension was designed for that extreme flexing and abuse, not to say the stress on the other drivetrain components, ujoints, gears, springs, etc.. a lot of that stuff is already 16 years or older, so it's going to fail probably sooner than later. I think I would haul a 4x4 to a trail like that, unload and go, that way you know you have a ride home.

Nice story, @hex0rz I bet granddad was watching over you too.

I changed my cam position sensor not to long ago, I used a 1/4 inch drive and a long extension and went right behind the VP. All done by feel but whole process was only about 30 min.

I use the be warning light also along with the FP gauge, I installed it at the 12v accessory, it's all I had before I got the fuel pressure gauge. That lights so bright at less than 10 psi. Your not going to miss it for a second. The fuel pressure gauge had a light too but it's really small. Plus when I turn the key on it lets me know it's still working

Spent part of my honeymoon there 19 years ago, wife's been wanting to go back ever since

I cant speak of the other places or brands either, I just went to Orielys because they were the closest and had one in stock, and if I did have to return it they were right their. but I have no complaints, 6 months and a few trips no issues, I did compare and measure side by side when I pulled the old one out and they were very close in dimensions.

So some sort of ignition disable could have prevented this one?

That's awesome, and I hope the thieves were cought and get what they deserve

I believe it factory

If yours is set up that way , the only way to prevent battery discharge is to unplug the trailer if left hooked up for any length of time. That's only if the trailer you are hooked to utilizes the 12 v circuit my 12v circuit goes off with key off, so I don't know what the factory spec is on that one

With key off I would say no, you might do some digging to see if someone hot wired it somewhere, it should be protected by a fuse if it were hot all the time and you had s RV hooked up that would lead to dead batteries on your truck if left sitting for any lengthy of time.

The 12 gauge wire will fit only if you force it to fit. Thier is a reason for the 12 gauge wires that the battery charge, brakes and ground carry more load than the rest of them

I have bought several sets of tires from www.discounttiredirect.com, and any discount tire outlet will perform warranty work if needed, They usually have the best prices for name brand tires, I have purchased the last three sets for the Dodge, two sets for the wife's Tahoe, and a set for daughters car, I just have them delivered to my house, free shipping and take them to the local wal mart for mounting, and put them on myself. I too have been looking into the tread right, but still undecided, my truck is going to need tires before the snow sets in, I just cant justify spending a lot of money on tires that are going to wear out in 3 or 4 years anyway

I prefer the UN-insulated seamless butt connectors, and add the heat shrink my self, they give a strong and secure connection and no 2nd guessing if you got a secure connection or not, My local napa usually has them, Ive learned by working on heavy class 8 trucks and trailers that not only good connections but proper wire securing is a must, have a lot of zip ties on hand Like w & F says your factory gauge wire size should be sufficient, try these https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/GRO843101/GRO843101

I agree with keeping the factory canister for the purpose of the factory fuel heater. It can be valuable if you are in sub zero temps in the winter

Yep, it must be tractor splitting season. It it took me about 4 hours to get mine split and transmission sitting on bench, I think Kubota dealer gets a little over 6 hours for a complete R & R on the hydrostatic trans.

Yep, I havnt looked into it to much but maybe find a truck similar in the bone yard that doesn't have the valve and take the brake line off

I think anything you can do to deture a thief might run the ordinary thief off (if thier is such a thing) but that being said if a thief wants your vehicle, most likely the professional ones, it don't mater what kind of system you have they are going to get it, I have heard in places like the Denver area, and probably other cities that towing company's prey on illegally parked vehicles. and can back up to one and have it loaded in a minute. no matter if it's locked or not. Just wondering @TFaoro was thier any evidence of a roll off or any other truck involved