01cummins4ever

You could go to the 2nd gen parts look up tool and see if it shows anything on the diagram

I need this delivered to my home I wonder if they will cut it and split it too

I don't know how this thread went from banning diesel to fire arm safety. But I guess it could be related in a round about way. I think any kid who even thinks about picking up a fire arm should complete an approved hunter ed class . Or at least have a qualified parent or mentor to start with the basics. I sat through the hunter ed class with my kids and my youngest just completed the online course and I even learn something each time. The online course was more in depth than the class room course I was really impressed. I know thier a lot of adults out thier that could use a refresher course too. Anyway thier is just no exception when it comes to fire arm safety and responsibility. But anyway back on topic. Just venting (lol).

X2 .... from above LED headlights do not perform well in snow, I have used them on a snowplow truck and they just do not build the heat to melt snow off of the lights there was a link posted on another thread here a dew days ago for a good deal on sport headlight conversion set, If I saved all the money I spent on aftermarket lens and bulbs I could have had a set by now.

I say let places like Mexico city and such pay the price and make them switch to alternative sources since they are among the worst polluters in the world, and leave us emission compliant and clean burning diesel owners alone and to fend for ourselves,

that's just no fun, I get to deal with that every year but so far we've been spoiled, Have had a couple feet so far but with daytime temps in the 30 and 40 degree it's melting fast. looking at your pics w&f, reminds me why a heated cab is a necessity.

I would think that when these trucks were built their was not much of a need for fuel additives being that they were pre ULSD days, For myself Im going to stick with two stroke just because its readily available, Although I have heard good reviews and cost effectiveness on the opti- lube, As far as an anti-gel, I will use power service in a white bottle when temps get below -15, I think most winter blend diesel is rated at about 10-15 below, but not really sure so just to error on the side of caution I will add a few onces when needed. When my truck was close to new I would run it in -25 to -30 temps with no additives, but these days I dont think I could get away with it. Just last year I was having trouble gelling up at about -10 ( didn't have any additive in it) and it was do to my own mistake, I forgot to plug my fuel heater back in, after plugging it back in its been smooth sailing

He might need a 12" lift kit on his tractor

like @Mopar1973Man states is one reason, If their is a problem with grid heating it can be unnoticed if plugging in all the time, these truck should be able to start at negative zero with grid heater alone, Iv only had to service mine once when I was getting week starts and all it took was tightening and cleaning connections. These days it is getting plugged in if I think its going to get below zero overnight but even then its just about an hour before start up, With the price of electricity who can afford to leave it plugged in

Yep, I have to agree thier should be no reason to plug in unless below zero. You don't want to spoil them ?

From that link you posted it states that they are for off road but reading the reviews people use them as their primary driving lights without issues, I would guess that you would just have to be careful how you have your headlights adjusted too. sounds like a good deal though, I may have to give them a try

when I was a kid first learning to drive, I used to drive this old guy around, don't remember why he couldn't drive but I would take him out deer hunting in his truck and it was a 4 door from that era. had a automatic with shifter on dash, and that truck was a tank, just seeing that brought back memories

@Mopar1973Man how do you have your return plumbed?

I will use the Power Service that comes in the white bottle, but that's only when in temps lower than -15 or colder. Other than that I don't use any cold weather additives, just the basic 2 stroke. With your route I don't think that will be a concern this time of year. Usually winter blend fuel and your canister heater should be sufficient .

The crud in that pic looks to me like paraffin wax build up, usually caused by gelled fuel or your dumping some really crappy fuel in. Regardless I hope you have cleaned your tank spotless. and also your factory fuel canister Have you changed your filter latley along with cleaning the factory canister ? I would recommend a draw straw and 1/2 inch lines, and not deal with the in tank fuel modual, Call Vulcan performance and tell them what you have and they can set you up, I would keep your factory fuel filter and canister due to it has a built in heating element for cold weather use.

hope all goes well, I'm sure their will be some surprises, I do know that those engines can go for 10,000 hrs or so with decent maintenance, before an overhaul, Being it came out of a reefer unit it was probably governed to run at a constant rpm, hopefully you can change that out fairly easy. looking forward to your thread

This was my ( and the wife's ) work out today. another dead tree in the forest is just more fuel for my stove. I'm enjoying this warm spell as long as I can. about 2 cords and 7000 lbs of ponderosa today.

Would be interesting to read why the big engine manufactures choose post turbo probe, on my freightliner with series 60 Detroit I never see more than 1000 degree on the gauge, under the heaviest loads, 900 being the safe zone.

X3 on the pre turbo probe, you want to protect turbo and also other engine parts, pistons, cylinders, valves etc... putting it downstream and it maybe to late.

well that definitely qualify s him to know what he's doing

I feel your pain W&F, I dropped my tractor off at the kubota dealer two weeks ago, just do do a pressure test on the hydro-static unit, probably no more than a 1 hour job. and they still haven't got to it. I would have done it myself but cant come up with the proper fittings to tap into the hydro static unit, Kubota requires their special fittings or buy their hydraulic pressure test kit for about 2k. If it come to where this is going to cost 2 or 3k to fix. I may be buying another tractor and parting this one out.

wow, that guy must have a lot of faith in his equipment,

I have seen some nice jobs done with Line-x or something similari in black or grey

I would lean toward a suction issue, the pump making high pitch sound is probably cavitating, sucking air.