98whitelightnin

Good thinking Robert, I left my column in P before I removed my shifter but maybe put it in D.

Lockup switch takes 20 minutes to hook up and 15 is just running wires under the carpet.

Yep, my 95 is just like my 98 was and a real pain to replace. Just did driver side hub assembly and new rotor a few weeks ago.

Early second gens came stock with 180 just like 12v. I went to cummins for a new thermostat and parts guy had to order one, when it came it was a 180 and I said I wanted a 190. The 180 was like $45 and the 190 was $90. I got a Napa 190 and it was perfect. Put the 180 in my 2005 so it wouldn't run so dang hot. I just ordered a 195 for the 12v, got it off of eBay and it's supposed to stop the temp swings.

Don't worry about your vin number not being in the pcm, it means nothing to the truck. I did the swap and had several different pcm/Ecm combos and the truck didn't care. Pull the bulb for the seat belt and I can't help with the cruise. Everything worked like it came from factory with mine but I never had a seat belt light to began with.

I removed the stock cup holder in favor of putting gauges there, wish I had a "Moldsmith" like your grandpa to help me out Dieselfuture

Me and mini me after riding 4wheelers

I'm game, present and past

I think running a comp on level 2 would be the same as an ez. If you plan on building the truck up more later, I would go with a comp.

I love geno's cup holder, had one in my 98 and now in my 95!

The one and only

It works great. I don't really understand how the different converters work different than other. 15 turn left cut, 800/300, 900/400 and all the different variations. I'm happy with this entire setup and hopefully it will work well when I go with a bigger turbo.

Put a couple hundred miles on the truck last night and it performed flawlessly.

I was planning on leaving them in there too. The trans had a stock rebuild my mopar not to many miles ago.

Got the truck back today and it performs great! Trans shifts great and pulls awesome, I might even like it better than manuals. Idle drops down when I put it in gear but I don't think I will need to adjust the idle. Builder called this morning saying the clutches looked good but we're stock and wanted to know if I wanted him to go ahead and go better/more clutches since he was in there, I told him to go ahead, didn't want any regrets later.

I need to update my sig, i now have a 1995 auto

After my trans is done, I think I am going to a bigger turbo too. Have been looking at DAP because they have always treated me good!

500-800 rpm lower is what they told me. I will definitely have to idle the truck up because it wants to die now when it's cold. It idles about 750 now when it's warm but about 500 when cold, thinking about maybe a pull type throttle cable so u can keep the warm idle where it's at. I am down to just one 12v but last time I tried to change my signature, I wasn't able to.

I finally ordered some transmission parts last week! Called Goerend and ordered an 800/300 tripple disk converter, full valve body and transmission pan. Also ordered a TCS billet input shaft and all the other goodies to make it go. I had planned on building it myself with a buddy that used to work on these trucks for a living but we are just to busy, so tonight I dropped it off at a local transmission builder. It had a factory rebuild not to long ago so I'm hoping no other parts will need replacing. I can't wait to get this thing back!

When my son was very young, our cat would set on the side of the bathtub while he was in there. If Maddox started to cry, Mr. Kitty would reach in and try to pull him out. Mr. Kitty would walk around in the tub when Maddox was in there sometimes too. He was an awesome cat!

I have had kook vue and the manual pair on my 98 were decent and didn't vibrate to terribly but the power/heated pair I put on the 2005 were horrible. I bought a manual pair of mopar on eBay for the 1995 for under $300 and they are great, hardly any vibration at idle or speed when in the up position and steady as a rock at idle and driving in the down position.

I just went through the same thing with my gooseneck trailer, left rear hub had a little water in it. Pressed new races in and packed bearings but the dang thing was still running almost hot when I pulled it a few days ago.

I would upgrade to the 98-99 hd steering if you don't already have it. Cowboy may have put the part numbers up for the HD stuff. I had a Red Head on my 2005 and it was to tight for lack of better words. That truck was all over the road, but it was all over the road with the stock worn out box too. I want to put a Red Head on my 95 too but after how tight the 2005 was, I think I would rather have the 4.5 turn box than the 3.5. I need to address my worn rag joint too

Another welcome from Fl. I have been thinking about getting an old Mercedes diesel too for my wife to drive but she wants no part of it.

Mine worked fine most of the time and the pedal wasn't hanging. I guess is was just malfunctioning, probably wouldn't have noticed it but last time I pulled my gooseneck trailer, the brakes stayed on when I left a stop light so I just unplugged the controller.