98whitelightnin

Depending on the gauges you want and the brand you go with or a monitor. I bought my gauges from http://dieselmanor.com/ because their gauge kits are complete but Jacob at http://www.dieselautopower.com/ might be able to give you a better price and make you a kit.

I would jack up the truck and spin the tires.

Gauges are fairly simple to hook up and the all in one monitors are usually just a couple plugs that plug directly into the trucks factory sensors.

Yes the tube will have some vapor coming out but you don't want to see a ton of white smoke coming out. After the truck is warm, pull the oil fill cap and turn it upside down on fill hole while the truck is running and make sure it does not blow off. The problem with getting one of these truck with blowby is a rebuild is expensive, not like an old chevy 350. Couple guys live in Brandon or Riverview. If its an 04.5 it came factory with the pump in the tank and they are decent pumps. This is no good

Welcome Kyle, where about in Tampa are you? We have a group of guys that get together every now and then and at the local truck and tractor pulls. I would check for blowby after the truck is at operating temp. Front end parts could be getting close to the point that they need to be replaced because that little 6 cylinder is HEAVY!

I also run one before my fass hpfp. I am only using 3/8 lines but I know you can get a 1/2 inline filter rated for diesel also. Let me see if I can find a part number for you.

The mechanical gauge gets up over 200 after I shut the engine off.

Coming home from my trip to Texas last week and I see my isspro mechanical water temperature gauge setting about 215* but the gauge in my cluster and my ScangaugeII both reading 188-190. I check my gauges periodically when im driving my truck so I know it was not doing it very long. We stopped to run through the Chik-fil-a drive through and after about 10 minutes or so being back on the road I noticed it. I was running 80 so I backed off down to 70 and it came down a little, maybe 210 or so. I kept a hawks eye on it for the next 10-15 minutes and it just dropped to 195 or so like normal. I watched it the rest of the trip and since but it has not come out of the normal range. The sensor is in the port between #2 and #3 cylinders. Coolant and oil all look good, block looks good but it has me worried a little. I hope its just a faulty gauge, to bad Di Pricol went out of business because these Isspro are not the same quality they were but that is another thread.

Best to find a wrecked stick shift truck that you can pick up cheap, get all the parts you need and sell the rest. I picked up a wreck for $1800, got what I needed and sold the rest for $1700 and also sold my old auto trans and t-case for another $600 plus a few other little parts. My buddy did the same thing but his truck was only wrecked on the front not totaled like mine And he made alot more money than I did. I have done a few so if you have any questions don't be bashful.

Yes, it's for non sport trucks going to sport lights.

Whoops, spelled it wrong. http://www.truckcustomizers.com/products/brite-box-chevy-ford-dodge-toyota-trucks.html On another note, I still don't have the harness so I never use the high beams. I have maybe 10 minutes total burn time on them and my driver side has burned out. Last time I was showing someone how they worked, like spot lights, there was a black spot in the driver side that couldn't be seen from outside but I could see it from the driver seat. I was driving last night and messing with them and the black spot would fill in with light after a few seconds of darkness. I did it a few times and then it blew. These are the high beam bulbs that Daniel Stern recommends for our trucks on his site. Guess it really doesn't matter but I would think a bulb should last longer than 15 minutes.

Intake Air Temperature

No, you will need to get a Bright Box for that.

Yes sir, that is your clutch slipping.

I did but it never came so I emailed him to cancel my order. He never responded to my order but quickly replied to my cancelation. I will get one eventually but im in the middle of moving and going back to Tx for a family reunion so money is a little tight.

Im happy with the light output but I don't have any oem lights to compare them too as my oem's were not sport. These are a lot better than my oem lights for sure but I still need to get a wiring harness made so I can actually use the high beams.

I would get the entire assembly with turn signals and all. I got mine from headlight depot on amazon; something like $165 shipped. It is plug and play on a 98 and newer truck because the holes are already in the sheet metal. First pull one screw out from under the turn lens and then I think there are two in the underside if each headlight.

I was the same way until I picked up this iPhone earlier this year and now it would be hard ( for a while) to be without it. It is very expensive but so is everything else these days.

Mine has been this way since I got it and I really wish it was open. I don't go through rear tires but its not easy to drive fully locked. Like Jason said, an auto with stock tires and 3.54 will be around 1900 at 70 locked in od but a 5 speed will be about 2100 an a 6 speed will be closer to 2000.

What gear did you pull in, 3rd low?

I believe I have the L bracket left over from my swap if yours does not have one.

Congrats on your first, you will be Hooked now!

http://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/pts/3991485430.html

If mine doesn't stop I will get one of these, should have done it in the first place. http://www.shop.eatsoot.com/product.sc?productId=10&categoryId=6

There is a gasket behind the lift pump. My truck never leaked a drop from the old tappet cover but has leaked nonstop since I put on this 12v cover and new gasket.