dripley

I have been wanting to add a switch to mine. My thought has always been a switch that turns the power on or off just like disconnecting the leads from battery as mine are now. It is my undeducated opinion that this would still allow the grids to be operated by the ECM.

The only down side with mine was the material on the left of the passenger side was vynil, same as the right side of the driver's seat, and not the fuzzy stuff. It did not last near as long as the fuzzy gray stuff on the left of the driver's seat.

All pretty good for 40 bucks. Lets hope Ca Ca does not turn into poo poo. Got my fingers crossed.

I did back probe with the sensor connected. I used straight pins with little plastic balls on heads. Stops them from touching one another. I used the battery negative for theand not the sensor ground, so that might the source of the weird readings on the signal wire. The 5v supply fromthe ECM read 4.98. I am thinking 4.98 is 0 psi and the voltage lowers for higher pressures. Pretty sure that is how the ECT sensor works though it has been a while since I did that test. In step 3 it tells that if my voltage is greater than 2.35v to go to step 9. I am assuming that means the signal wire and not the 5v supply from the ECM.

The 02 wiring diagram here shows a 3 wire sensor for the pressure with the orange 5v shared between the 2.

The 12.5 v I saw was on the signal, gray w red tracer, 4.98v on the orange wire. My 02 does not share the 5v orange wire. It only goes to the to the MAP sensor. My oil pressure switch only has one wire. Same as the 3rd gens.

A definite possibility.

Like the big one behind the wheel.

In the FWIW column mine has always vented some thru the defrost in the floor only setting. It vents more in the floor defrost setting. It has done this since the truck was new. Always thought this was normal,

Now for another weather break and time.

I checked it 3 times key on engine running and key on engine off. 12.5v engine running with 14.1v at the battery and engine off key and read the 18.5v. Neither ade since. No other DTC's. No spare to check with and with the cost of one I hope none is needed, we will see. I cant help but believe that it is definitely in the wiring. But voltages on the signal wire were strange. I put postive lead from volt meter on the sensor ground and got the same random numbers the meter gives when not connected. Not sure how to check the sensor ground for a short.

Old news here but I had to replace the other 3 the next weekend. The rest were shot too. The 237 code came back and the I am running very defueled. The most load I can put on the motor is about about 37% per my SG II. Finally got a short break in the rain and work today and did some testing for the 237 code. Engine running I had 4.98v on the 5v supply and 12.5v on the signal wire. Engine off and key on 4.98 on thr 5v supply and 18.5v on signal wire. Not sure what this is trying to tell me other tnan a wiring issue. Something shorted but voltages seem weird to my novice brain.

Unfortunately I have not. The job is consuming all my time and I just got pretty close to a blank check to make it happen, so next 2 weeks is going to be pretty intense. Pretty much 12 hour non stop days for the next 2 weeks but I dont have to ask permission to spend money just document it. Maybe I can squeeze a new loaded head out of it some how.

I had a small shop in Tenessee get mine for me. Thats where it broke down when the second rebuilt gave.He told me it came from Cummins but I never asked who programmed it.

You can swap them. Did mine several years ago. They are bit diffrrent but fit just fine.

I cant disagree on the paint but really been surprised how well it stuck to the exterior plastic.

Mine does not say Cummins ReCon on it. I seem to remember seeing a photo of one here in the past with a label stating that. Mine has a label in the upper right hand corner that says Cummins with a bar code, part number and may be serial number on it. So as far as I can see it was new. It was $1400 with programming back then. I have heard mentioned here by one or two members here that you could still find a new one here or there in the $2700 range. Like i say I heard this but did not try confirm it.

Engine block. The PCM is on the firewall.

Mine has never done that its entire life, even with worn injectors. Miss at idle and under hard throtle yes but not free reving.

The bulk of the money I spent was on a rental car. Down time for diagnosing and then 6 weeks down time when the first one they sent did not work. Then a little more down time when the second one went about 13 months later. The ECM repair was $500. I was never asked for any info other than my VIN number. But with the results of the first and second rebuild I can't help but to believe they did not know any more than floks know today them. Hopefully the new Cummins ECM I got in 2011 never craps out. I want no part of that fun ever again.

After going thru all of this back 2010 and 2011, I am surprised that there still seems to be a lot of issues with repairing these things.

I painted the front bumper cover and top bumper cover on mine with plastic auto trim paint 2 years ago and they still look good but have scratched some paint off in 2 spots due to some minor impacts. Dont know how it would work on the interior stuff.

Hows the sound? 39 bucks is pretty darn cheap.

I dont know squat about the technical aspects, but I love name "canned ham". Just spit my beer all over myself. And in that last picture, whoose hand did you cut off and stuff in there?

Be carefull, dont offend the old folks. They tend to get ornery. Some take pills the others carry guns. The chickenator doesn't tell.