dripley

I am closing in on you at just under 240k on mine. Boght mine when i was on the dark side of the moon.

Do you splice the whole 9" length into the charge wire? The electricaly chalanged need to know.

I was speaking of the 5v reference loop for the sensors that @Dieselfuture speaks of . I cut mine many years ago on the advise of someone I thought was smarter than me. That splice worked it way loose and caused several gremlins to raise their head. Dead pedal was part of it. By dead pedal I dont mean a dead spot thru the range of the accelerator pedal but rather the engine going to idle while under load with no response no matter how much you push the pedal. I did get APPS sensor codes during these issues but changing the APPS never fixed them. A dead spot in the pedal that you can push pedal more and get thru the dead spot is definitely an APPS issue.

Probably the best purchase I have ever made on a vehicle. Thanks for the good wishes. I feel the same way. Perhaps on my last ride in this truck my son will not feel the need to call ahead and ask them to dig a bigger hole. I am going to have a lot of fun with my son over that remark he made to me a while back. I hope I get many years out of it as I have the truck.

You are gaining on me. I am only making about 375/400 a week now. By the above, are you making fun of my "maintenance schedules"? Still proud of the miles I have gotten out of this truck but about to drop some cash with the head gasket. It will be agood time to clean up under the hood. Still all in all I have eneded up ahead on keeping the beast.

Most dead pedal issues are usually not the APPS sensor. The last bout I went thru was the 5v reference signal wire.

You can just swap a relay from the horn or such to test.

My cluster comes out with out loosening the steering column. But I might have had the column ignition cover off, cant remeber.

The mod worked very well on my truck. My ac voltage dropped from .035 to .01. It is easy to do even with the truck together.

I vote HO since you have the HO engine. Unless you have some other things in mind.

The black wire landing on that fuse is the charge wire from the alternator and not a ground wire. If thats the one speaking of.

I would have to agree with the above.

I am sitting here, fan installed in about 38* weather idling at 175.

I hope my maintenance is better but no where as good as @Mopar1973Man does to his. It is true on highway miles, most of mine are from getting home and back. I do tow a fifth wheel at 15k pounds but thats only about 80k of the miles. I would like to know how many hours are on it due to it being my office a lot over the years with a lot of idling time.

That is one fine list of trucks. Hate to think how much it would cost me to make look like those again. Especially the blue over silver long beds. The last one, whats the worry about the miles. I am only 99k behind him and mine still runs good.

That might explain it. The firstit happened to me was on the oe injectors with about 200k on them. Never had any mileage drop on them, at least on the highway. In town was hard to tell with idling and short tripping. This time the 50's in here now have about 100k on them and I have seen a slight mpg loss. I have only heard the 3 cylinder high idle on a video and it is quite alarming.

Good to know he is safe. Happy he got his truck out but I cant imagine loosing everything like that.

Mine is acting the same way. On a warm engine when coasting to a stop it will idle at 900 rpm, right when I cross about 6 mph slowing down it will drop to abot 825. I had a dose of this about 10 years ago and it just stopped doing it. I dont have clue as to what it is but mine has been doing for about year this time. Damn Gremlins!!

Rock auto does have rebuilts and new on there site. A new one from Standard Gear is $310 + shipping.

Lets see if Mike will post up the article. From reading it and talking to him it does not look difficult. I guess that would depend on what you want to tackle.

@Mopar1973Man rebuilt his and has article about it but as usual I cannot find it. Did not look that difficult to me. Lets see what he says.

the TIMBO apps dont have a sticker to adjust voltage to. There is some voltage reference in the instructions.but I have just adjusted mine with the idle screw, if that is what they call it. I have no issues with this method.

I have had 3 lift pump failures. One, the oe, with no pressure gauge and the truck just stopped running down the interstate like it had run out of fuel. Had no fp gauge or knowledge of the system then. The other 2 was with a gauge and the truck never quit running. I just happen to notice 0 pressure. Had one other 0 FP issue that turned out to be a blown fuse. So that gauge is important. Mine just failed, no real rhyme or reason. The only other warning I would know is lower than normal pressure that a filter change does not fix. Check your pump fuse also if the pump is not running and let us know what you find when you get to check it out.

The air I am talking is most likely in the high pressure lines and will require you to open some of them. 1 3 and 4 work very well. Leave them open while cranking the truck. Back the nut off but not all the way. This way you can see if fuel is getting to the injectors. As you get fuel to one tighten it down and so on. It should fire then but will run rough until all the air is out. Just like it did the one time you got it to fire off for a few seconds. Of course the above is moot if the lift pump is not pumping fuel to the VP.