dripley

Prayers from the Carolinas for both of you and your neighbors. Wish we could send you some of this rain we are getting right now.

You shorten the charge wire from the alternator and run it to the passenger battery.

These trucks like to eat cheap track bars. I am on my second MOOG with a larger ball joint. Maybe 140k on the first one and about 40k on the second and counting. I would suggest replacing and then with a helper have them turn the wheel back and forth and start looking at all the moving parts and see what else is worn out. Ball joints are another part you should check out. Jack a wheel off the ground and put a pry bar under the tire. Pry up and you should have little to no up and down movement. If they are moving up down and clunking they are shot to. All of the above can and will contribute to steering wheel play. When my last track bar went out I could sit in the truck and turn the wheel and watch the hood of my truck move side to side as the steering took up the slack before the wheels would turn. You can take it somewhere and get the work done. I took mine in for an alignment many years ago and they found they would have to replace just a portion of what I mentioned above and only wanted $900 to do it. So I got to looking and replaced everything on the front end and bought some tools to do it with for around $800. The work is not difficult but can be a bit labor intensive depending upon how stuck some of the parts are. They are bolt on bolt off parts. Now if you replace the track bar and everything else is tight there is an adjusting screw on top of the steering gear box that will take the slack out of it. But if your other parts are worn out the benefit would be minimal.

Put one in mine from one of the parts stores 7 years or so ago. Been fine ever since. Don't remeber the brand. Th oe blew up on Sunday it was all I could get.

The 2 best mog runs I ever made was on fuel labled Bio Mass diesel. 22.5 mpg on 2 separate interstate runs at 75 mph. The best mpg on pumps labled like that one were 19.5 to 20. I don't mind running it. Not to beat a dead horse but that 5 to 20 crap shoot is bull crap or maybe chicken crap. I never had to deal with that low of a temp either.

Loosen the inlet to the VP and then bump the starter, no engine start. The lift pump should run for 25 seconds or so. When fuel comes out tighten the inlet back up. Then crack open 1, 3, and 4. I really loosen the nuts, keeps fuel from spraying every where. As you start to see a good stream of fuel from one of them while cranking, tighten it down. Same on the others as they could good fuel flow to them If re prime was the problem it should be trying fire and will fire as the air gets out of the lines. It may run rough but should smooth out as the other cylinders start getting good fuel. How's your fuel pressure? Do you have a FP gauge?

Did crack any of the lines to let the air out?

I don't run it for power since it does not offer any. It actually lowers the btu's in the fuel. 2 stroke quieted my engine a little and the bio does a little more. The bio mix itself is even better for lubricity than the 2 stroke.

The B20 labels here in Virginia state it is blended any where from 5% to 20%. It's a crap shoot out this way. Love's is the main place I see it at and theirs is mixed on site. They have a separate bio tank and it is mixed as it is dispensed so they can change st will. I have the B20 by itself and mixed with on board. I cant tell any difference either way. Plus 5% and below does not have to be labeled so you don't always know what you are running. I have no problem running it, just wish there were better labeling standards.

The Mega Cab is mightier than the wall.

It is just difficult to see it. If the puke bottle is still hanging on the front of the engine it is most likely clogged. The pictures are what you are looking for. The first second is the engine side and the other is the front. While this ain't pretty, I have seen a lot worse on here.

Wondering that as well.

Good chance you need to reprime the fuel system. That would be the first thing I would try. Could have lost prime sitting there and opening and draining the fuel canister and changing the fuel filterwould contribute to it also.

Wish I could find it in the 2 to 5 % range. About all i can find right now is in the 5 to 20% and no one seems to know what exactly you are getting.

Likely the radiator is clogged up with crud on the outside. If the crankcase vent still goes out the front thru the puke bottle the exterior of the radiator is likely clogged with oil and dirt. Very hard to see from a visual inspection under the hood. The puke bottle is easy to see between the radiator and the front of the engine.

I hope you never have a problem with the sump. I think it is personal choice. Me, dropping the tank was not that difficult in the grand scheme of installing the AD lift pump. Had to do it twice to complete the job due to installer error. Not a friend just me. I get some help sometimes and others not Seized bolts, yep, Dodge did not know what anti seize was. I have been thru that one.Like I said If you are ok with a sump install it. I am ok dropping the tank. A lot of stuff is personal preference.

I guess missed something. What is the truck you are speaking of? It still would not change my mind on drilling a hole in the tank. But thats my tank, If you want to drill yours, go for it. I have had to much success with mine to do it. I just have no desire to penetrate the bottom of my tank, but thats me.

Me, I am not cutting a hole in my tank for a sump. I have been pulling fuel from the basket for almost 17 years. In stock trim, in tank pump trim and AD trim. In all three they suck the tank dry. A sump is just as prone to suck air due to fuel slosh as any means outside the basket pick up method.

I would agree. I do not use my 4wd often, but when you need it, it is good to have.

I have been running for over 200k with both the engine and pump return going straight to the basket. I do run my tank for the most part down to the fuel light coming on. I have not experienced any premature filter clogging, plus i do run bio diesel a good bit. Had my tank out when installing the AD and it was clean other than a few little things floating around in it but no crud on the bottom. Maybe I will drop mine one day and look, but not if I dont have any issues.

I have been stuck going north. I had to look up where you are from. Was afraid you were going to Guatemala or something. My next job is south as in South Carolina. Texas is big place. My parents lived in Laredo for a year and my oldest lives in San Antonio. Do the mod, it is simple and beneficial.

In FWIW column, you are speaking to alot of folks who would do most anything to avoid a dealer ship even if it is 3 miles down the road. That is not always possible however.

Your boost seems fine, but the EGT's are out of whack. I am not sure that mine is that high with 5th wheel on at 65 to 70 just cruising. More like 850 or so.

I have one of those too. Her name is Dear.

Welcome to you over here also.