dripley

Thats one reason these manuals are so easy to launch. The ECM is trying to keep the engine at idle speed when it drops while launching. Even when I have the 5th wheel hooked up I dont have to give it any throttle to get moving. When it was not working it was embarrassing. Just was not used to that.

They fixed mine, it only took 5 weeks and then the cruise did not work. That was in addition to the original 2 weeks or so to get the first one. Had to drive it, the rental car was costing to much. It lasted a little over 1 year and then left me stranded again when it went out. I now have a Cummins rebuilt. I spent an awful lot of money to save a few bucks.

Welcome Nuke.

Pinched or kinked line maybe.

Mine acted similar but not just pulling hills.Just did it when and where it wanted. The only body I touched was the one to the passenger inner fender. Have you noticed anything wrong with the idle up when launching? I think I have that term right.

I did not see any explanation as to how it works on Edge's site. It does look interesting however. Poor man's power.

Stumbled across this today. Is this an updated EZ, it doesn't tap the pump, but the power ratings are higher than the EZ I think. Looks to be a fairly new product. http://www.edgeproducts.com/product.php?pk=164&pvk=494

the only dirt or gravel roads I see are usually going into the RV park. Closest I ever came to that was with a bad injector o ring. Sprayed oil all iver the front, but not near that high.

I would tap it if it was mine. Though this does come with some risk if the pump fails. I have read where even tapping with a stealth plate has been cause for warranty denial. Not saying it is industry wide but it is out there. I bought my VP 4 years ago from Blue Chip Diesel, and Chip recommended using the plate so there would be no issue with a warranty claim for that reason. That was 4 years ago however.

I have run Rotella 15 40 since new and never had any oil related issues. With 309k on the clock I would be hard pressed to change the oil I use. Brand maybe, but not the weight.

Happy belated B'day there DW. I'll have a drink for you one day late.

Vulcan Performance carries an 1/8" needle valve. Some folks have gotten them at NAPA also.

I went back and looked and the warranty was extended to 100k or five years. Didn't see the five years the first time. Hope all turns out well.

All the HP ratings I was speaking of are at the fly wheel of the engine. I suppose if you had an older 24v rated at 215 HP you could see a 60HP gain, don't know that for sure. I believe your 01 is rated at 235 HP, a net gain of 40 HP, again at the flywheel. Then deduct the 10% to 15% W&F mentions for drive train loss and you would have an approximate idea.

Thinking about buying these and getting my AC back up and running. Read enough here to believe I can do it. But lack the tools for the job. What do ya'll think? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C6LG3Q/ref=dra_a_cs_mr_hn_it_P1400_1000?tag=dradisplay-20 I am not looking into going into the ac buisiness, just using them on my vehicles.

I was not thinking the VP since the throttle still worked just fine. But I did start thinking maybe the ECM. Neither one very budget friendly.

WF brings up a valid point. All the numbers I was using are just rated HP. HP at the rear wheels are gonna be different from truck to truck. The RV's is the only engine enhancement I am running currently and they are a nice improvement over stock.

The RV275's come from the Cummins installed in Recreational Vehicles and give the engine a 275 HP rating. So on your SO 01 auto rated at 235 HP it is a 40 HP increase. My HO 02 rated at 245 HP I guess would only see a 30 HP gain. Thats pretty a pretty simplistic explanation, I am sure someone more knowledgeable than I can explain it better. I have not read of any 50 to 60 HP gains being claimed personally.

I originally was going to start this thread asking for help, but I seem to have fixed the issues inadvertently. Here is the issues. My cruise control had been acting up of late. At first the cruise would act like it was backing off and then re accelerating. Very much like lightly lifting the throttle and easing it back on. Seemed to be doing it after about an hour of it being turned on. As time passed it got much worse and was actually cutting out in in harshly. So much so I just shut it off. Then out of the blue it would work just fine. The throttle itself worked fine thru all of this. Also during this time the idle up feature when releasing the clutch seemed to not function and I was choking the engine out like a freaking rookie first time stick driver. This to was kind off hit and miss as to when it would happen. One thing that I had noticed prior to these issues showing up was the negative cable end on the passenger battery was cracked on one side where the bolt passes thru. The connection was tight and I could not move it. I figured it was fine for a while until I could fix it. I went home last weekend and still had the issues, but figured it was at least time to fix the cable end. It was still tight and clean(used motor oil works great for that, thanks Mikey). So I took the cable off and sawed off the offending end. Replaced the clamp with a military style clamp and soldered new ends on the battery cable and the 2 ground wires that were also present at the cable end. I made my return trip last Sunday and no issues with the cruise and so far no issue with the idle up feature. I didn't have a wiring diagram to tell me what the grounds controlled, but so far that seems to have fixed the problem.

Me and the wife had a 95(if memeory serves me right)Signature series Lincoln, beautiful car. It also had the 3.8L V6. One day a guy came thru the parking lot of the 1st Chick I ever built driving a Ford with the 3.8 in it. He was leaking water bad and trying to get to the dealer and cussing that engine up one side and down the other. Turned out the head gasket were a serious problem for them. Ours went at 98k. On top of that it took out some of the bearings with it. I was on the road and have no idea how long it took the wife to realize she had water coming out of the tailpipe. I spent alot of money having a dealer fix that car only to find the bearings shot afterwards. Even had tranny problems at the same time. Any way the only thing good that came out of it was Ford was forced into extending the warranty on that issue to 100k. I did get to go back to that dealer with my receipts and he had to write me a refund for all the cost. I googled it and quite a bit of info came up on the issue. http://fordsuckz.0catch.com/ This was just one such site. You might want to read up on it before you dump a bunch of $$$ in it. Heck, if they did not put a time limit on it, you might still be under warranty. Wouldn't that be something.

If its diesel fuel coming off the tranny or bell housing, check your return line tee and return banjo on the back of the head. They will both leak and run over the rear off the engine. The o rings in the tee will go bad over time just like the sealing washer on the back of the head. The tee is located to the rear of the stock fuel filter canister. You can follow the return line off of the VP to the tee. The line coming out of the top of the tee will lead you to the banjo fitting on the back off the head. You cant see that one with out a mirror.

I can identify with all of you. I have had tinnitus most of my life and ringing in the ears. Used to just come and go occasionally, but pretty much full time for the past few years. Too much construction work and not enough ear plugs. My day is coming soon.

Check your reservoir. The clutch fluid will disappear quickly if it is leaving a puddle.

Happy b'day, Shorty. You know he is old enough to drive the truck now and you can ride in the trailer. Beware,young'uns are like that.

I guess as long as the old AD 165 holds up I will be sticking with it.