dripley

Welcome Brad. Sorry I cant help with your Chummins, but i am sure some one will have some thoughts on it. Good luck with your project.

I have been looking at some of those parts for my self since the lower left rear corner of the my bed got crunched a good while back. I got lucky and found me a bed in pretty good shape with a rear bumper in decent shape for $200 bucks. the only bad part is there is a hole in the bed for a goose neck. Cant complain much for $200 though.

LMC truck has them also. Just a tad cheaper, but dont know which one is any better than the other. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=21

My battery terminals are getting pretty rough and I am going to replace them. Do any of yall know what gauge they are? I am thinking about using something like these.http://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Barrel-Fusion-Battery-Terminals/p_804069

While I dont tow often, I do tow heavy. 15k 5th wheel. I run the rancho 5000's and they are working fine. The price kept me out of the 9000's. If I towed alot more, I might have gone with them however.

You are welcome Dobienut. I never tried taking either of mine out. Had to replace both front hub bearing assemblies a while back and ended up with new ones with the bearings.

Rock auto has just the wires and sensors. It showed only 2 left. $43 apiece. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2426764&cc=1440064

Mechanical here for about 1.5 years and no problem. I did drill a small hole in the pod holding the gauge just to get some forewarning in case it leaked. Had a couple of small ones initially, but nothing since. I also have a needle valve on the line. If it starts leaking it can be shut off fairly quickly.

I forgot about the regulator. Might have to pull mine apart one day and just see if it is any different than the Raptor. I have had zero issues with it since install 2.5 of 3 years ago.

I would definitely call Pureflow They have had a lot of trouble with their pumps and pressure of late.

I am right partial to mine too. Think I will keep it.

I think I have 6 in mine also. If you look at where the plug is in relationship to the shift tower there quite a difference. Makes it look really empty.

This thread is going to hit 9500 views before its over with. I am looking forward to the one that says "new tranny in and all a ok":thumbup2:. Hope this one does the trick.

The south bend is supposed to be heavy duty for a stronger clutch. I have no experience with it. My Auto Zone master and Rock Auto slave have been on with the stock lines for over 2 years with no issue. I just hope it does not break tomorrow since I talked about it. My single disk Valair holds 15k at highway speeds even going up and over the mountains. I dont have any experience with 22K+. I personally would not want a dd from what I have read. I dont want jerkiness or hard engagement and a stop. That seems to be the biggest complaints I have read about.

My master went out slowly over about 6 months. BS on that one and I have read of many others going the same way. I dont know why you would need a DD clutch. I lived on the OE with what is in my sig for near 6 years with no issues.Replaced the OE for another single disk Valair about 2 years ago. No slipping with the 15k 5th wheel on the back. I dont know about the synchro issue, but could be possible. Unless he works on trannys like the 5600 I would be leary. $3500 is high to me, I would be doing Most of this work myself.

Pretty versatile word. Never gave it that much thought.

Sounds like your fuel level sender might be bad, especially if it is the oe one. If it is in the oe fuel basket it could be just wearing out from age and letting air in the system causing the hard starts. I think I would pull the fuel basket out and inspect it. You would either have to drop the tank or raise the bed to access it. There is a way to test the fuel level sender but I dont know what it is. The cruise control solenoid is located under the drivers side battery and is prone to corrosion from said battery. An inspection of the solenoid is in order. I am by far not the expert here, but thats where I would start.

My ADII has the adjustable regulator. I fiddled with it the first few days after install and have not touched it since. It sits just north of 19. Thats been 2.5 years ago and it has never moved. It appears to be the same as the ones on the Raptors, but thats just comparing photos.

One of the reasons I bought mine was you could open the hood and see an engine and not all the other crap. I had an old chevy with a 350 in it and you could put a 2" by 3' piece of plywood on the air cleaner and the radiator and sit a family of 4 under the hood for dinner.

I was going to suggest LMC also. I do not have any experience with their grills, but I did purchase a new dash pad from them and it fit and looks as good as the oe before it fell apart. They have a wide assortment of grills also.

I hear the servo under the drivers side battery takes some abuse from the battery location. I think if mine had one I would start looking there.

He was running the same thread on CF. Maybe found his answer.

Mine came from Rock auto also but was not prefilled. It does have a bleeder screw on it which made bleeding it very easy. If the master ever goes out again it would make bleeding it a breeze compared to the first time.

I just read the FSM and it states the assembly is filled at the factory and should need no further attention unless fluid needs to be added. I had near 210k on mine when the master started leaking internally. Kind of made it a guess for me when mine went bad. Lucky for me I did not know there was a slave. Until the master gave out I probably opened it twice in the 9 years I had driven it at the time. I dont think it is exposed to the atmosphere enough to absorb much if any moisture.It also states the master and slave cannot be serviced individually. Another thing I did not know at the time.Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

How far is your water source from the connection on the rv? The longest hose i have ever had was 30'. It took 2 heat tapes. Ran one from each end. I taped the heat tape on with electrical tape about every 8" and used some unsplit pipe insulation from Lowe's. I got it big enough that it would easily slide over the hose and heat tape, taped all of the joints. I always leave enough heat tape at each end to get it on both the camp connection and the rv connection. Wrap those connection with more of the pipe insulation and duct tape the heck of them. Those connections seem to be the ones i have had the most problems with until I started wrapping them better. Bare in mind I am probably not seeing the sustained low temps you are on a regular basis, but it did work when I was in Indy that cold ___ winter.