dripley

as directed by epa manual BR549 i'm sure.

i am probably on of the over oilers. if there was any doubt to whether there was enough it just put on some more. thats probably why i have the residue. my thoght process was as long as it is catching the dirt no harm not foul. though it does make me wonder about the intercooler. at least i feel i have kept dirt from the engine.my wife had her oil changed on the road once and they cleaned her k&n for her. she explained to me the tech had said i was not doing a goood enogh job and cleanded it with compressed air. my wife really enjoyed pointing out how wrong i was in my cleaning process. compressed air is about the last thing one of these filters needs to see. it was replaced sohortly with a dry filter.i amj not sure that this residue is a bad thing unless it helps clog the intercooler which aint good. one day maybe i will take it out and see.bottom line for me, the dry filter BHAF, i feel it will be better in the long run. with the cost of recharge packs for the k&n it is going to equal out in cost.

i understand when you first start up and every thing is cold and your sucking cold air in that all of that does make a differance. but once every thing is warmed up and and you are cruising the highway, does it make that big a differance? My mileage is pretty constant winter and summer on the highway. my intown does vary, but i do idle my engine a fair amount before i have a job trailer, it is a little hard to see how big a differanc it makes.

i ran a k&n and the banks filter that came with the stinger plus for 8 years. when it came time for cleaning i took one out and replaced it with the other so i could clean the dirty one. the one thing i never did was aggresivly clean the dirty one. always soaked it real well and rinsed it with the hose and no nozzle just water flow. as far as i know it always did a good job. after hearing alot of things here and elsewhere i decided to change over to a dry filter. i think in the end i am going to like that better. time will tell.one draw back i have seen is oil in the intake system. i have it in the turbo which wiped right out. i will have to take the turbo off to see what is beyond the impellar blades. the tubing leading to and away from the inter cooler are clean, but i did notice the same residue inside the intake manifold. a sticky but very thin layer as far as i can see and reach with the intake horn off. it does make me wonder how much of this is in the inter cooler. kind of wierd i dont see it in the piping anywhere.

i have one also. but as mr. fark or fak says they are a bit pricey. from the looks of it it is working jsut fine.

just no sunshine somedays. huh MM:(

the whell is easily centered when they do an alignment if they pay attention. i have gootten to where i make sure i tell them when they do it. the tires could just be old or the rims might have a little rust or corrosion causing the leak. i have had a couple trailer tires that developed that during their life. are the tire old. i have had some that would be noisy and vibrate just do to age.

Jr would be proud, iknow i am.

fark sys, CW has something to do with a certain model of turbo, VGT i believe is a variable pitch vanes inside of a turbo, and ARP i believe is a brand of stud for your cylinder head that you need if you are running alot of pwer and boost. thats my take on the above. as you can see i struggle with some of it my self. i am not a newbie until it comes to thing like this that i hope to be learnig about after i get my truck in order for the way it is set up. then progess on to differant systems on the truck. RJC has a point is there a legend for all the abbreviations somewhere?

not trying to stand up for the dealer, afterall they gave me my wonderful in tank pump for $1k, but i googled "dodge down tube" and came up with several hits. mostly about down tubes inthe fuel system, a nitrous system and also the downtube from the turbo which i have always called a down pipe. anyway even these things would not have to be replaced every 30k miles. i'd have to cal bs too. i knew i had heard of it before and with a memeory jog it is part of a bycyke and motrocycle frame. it is crap like this gives even good mech's a bad name.

i know about working like a fiend. not so much the past few weeks, but when you are on salary it really does not mean much. 30 hours or 60 hours, it all pays the same.

i second that motion. but you left out purdy.

thats all you got to do? what 3 more things.

"ditto":broke:

careful with those age remarks:lmao2:. if i loose any more of my hearing its not going to make much differance how much noise my truck makes.

i never got any milage gain out of the banks. especially around town. but i did get the power and liked using. so i figured iwas a pretty good trade off, more power with no less mpg's. the rv's were really nice, more power and mpg. i am going back home today so we will see if a non leaking return line my get some more mpg. --- Update to the previous post... Thanks, i had not thought about that one. thats something to think about RJC. i put a heavier clutch in mine last year. a Valair good for 400hp. anythig else for me now is going to have to wait. --- Update to the previous post... Bob, i think we found you a third project.

thats a good un right there. my compliments to the wife.

bought with 68k and she went about 140k. still owed money on it. it went just over year after the wifes linclon lost the whole drive train. ford piece of crap. owed money on it too. bad year for cars for us.

i traded mine in on the one i have now. it was hanging on a wrecker. one of the valves went thru #10 piston:cry:. never found the valve but pieces of the piston were in the oil pan. not too good.

that sucks. any chance for some pay back form the station?

i know the 4.10's make a differance. my last truck was a gasser too. 96 dodge 2500 with a v10. hard to beat that truck for accelaration. it would fly. the only thing it would not fly by was a gas station. 12 mpg on the highway down hill with a tail wind, empty. 4.25mpg towing.thank god gas was .99 cents agallon then. even with the rv's the wife's dakota will takeme off the line. but after an 1/8mile i believe i cam take her.and by the way,its at camper's rv park columbia tennesse lot 91. biring it on.

when i installed the banks it was a good power add, but the rv's really helped the low end better that the banks did. the banks gave me more on the upper end than the lower.

OOOUUCCHH!!!!!!!!!!!. wondered where you have been. sure am sorry to hear about this. our thoughts and prayers to your speedy recovery.

shoot if i could get close enough i'd come over and do it for you for beer and burgers. i dont know that thats going to happen any time soon. as far as the mpg gain, it is advertised that way and i dont see why it would not work out on your truck. the advertised hp gain is 40 over stock, mpg's at 1 to 2. i dont know that i got 40hp, but i did pick up some low end power that i really like. some high end also + 1 mpg extra. the only differance between your truck and mine is the rear end. you have 4.10's and i have 3.55's. that might make a differance. you should have pretty good low end power already with the 4.10's . we need smarter people to answer that one. or just put them in there and see what happens.i did some research, we better call it shopping, on power upgrades 6 years ago when i wanted more power. it was a little overwhelming at the time. too many choices and claims to sort thru. i also did not know about all the forums out there at the time. that would have helped me make up my mind. the biggest reason i opted for the banks system is because it was a complete system, exhaust, tuner, gauges,and on and on. six years ago that was $2500 as i remember. but times were better then. another reason i chose banks was the tuner is not adjustable. you adjust with your right foot. simpicityat its best. the one thing i did not think of, take an edge comp, set it on high them adjust with your right foot and you have almost the same thing. nothing like 20/20 hind sight. the comp and others also give the option for economy settings for mpg gains. Mike has one maybe he will chime in on that.i like you am a little leary about used. you just never know how used, especially when buying form someone you dont know, sight unseen. but i see alot of guys have good luck. sounds like a personal decision.anyway i dont think you can go wrong with the rv 275's, nice power and hopefully an mpg gain. all for $270 if you return your cores.

it cant hurt any thing. i have had my BHAF for alomost a year and run it with no heat shield. i have not noticed any differance in temps from running the stock air box with a k&n summer or winter. i darnn sure did not over heat with all the tstat poblems i have had. i dont have any way to monitor the intake air temp and i would think it has made a differance in that. there just doesnt seem to be any differance in how the engine is operatingl my milages stay pretty constant all year.