dripley

if i spin my tires on anything it will set a p500. it goes away pretty quick though. i would think it would be the same if you spun the front wheels. you have speed sensors front and one in the rear. all it takes is one of them seeing a differant speed than the others. i dont know wether the truck has to be running or not though to set the code.

wow! thats somehting there.

#1 i kinda figured the AD would have to have some resistance on the line to return fuel to the tank. withit pumping into the fuel can it seems there would be little resistance and return flow would have been minimal at best. my return line from the pump is fed straight into the basket thru the old supply outlet and not thru the filler neck. the engine return is thru the original return inlet. i would think AD did that to be sure there is always enough fuel in the basket to keep the pump fed. #2 i did try and start the engine and never got any fuel to the injectors. i think it was not able to get enough fuel with out sucking air. i put 8 gallons of fuel with the 4 already in the tank, got a steady stream of fuel and it started on the 2nd try:hyper:. the new fuel pick up in the basket is a 2 piece nylon tube with the joint right at the top of the basket, could be another source for sucking air. wish i had done that differantly. it is runnign fine right now and when the time is right i am going to see how low the tank wil go before running out. i have always been able to run my tank dry. i dont really want to end up with the 1/4 tank problems i have heard about. thanks for the info. by the way dou yu have any clue as to why installing this pump would have caused my engine to finally run at proper temp. i have battled my engine running between 165 and 170 for a long time. after the install my temp is right at 190 like it should be. tstat is new. been thru several trying to fis it.

need to do this my self.

never had a problem with high temps. the first seven years the temps were always good and steady around 190. last three years its been a battle getting up any where near 190. dont need to gut mine. --- Update to the previous post... mine was like that for a long time but has always been a batttle lately. been rock solid the past two days though around 190. --- Update to the previous post... my oe lasted about 7 years. started having temp issues about 2 or 3 years ago. i was foing to buy a cummings a couple of weeks ago and the freightliner dealer wanted 67 bucks for one plus he would have to order it. i decided against that. i still cant figure out why it has been working right since the AD install. it floated around 165 to 175 the whole 1350 miles bavk from OK and around home the next few days. since the install one needle width to the left of 190 just like it used to.

we have had several discussions here about coolant temp here. i for one have had a problem keeping the temp up for quite a while. i have replaced t stats only to see them work for a short period. i finally replaced my radiator cap and that seemed to work. but about a month ago the same problem came back. i replaced the t stat again with one from napa. this one did nothing differant. on initial warm up the temp will go to 190 then drop down to about 165 and bounce around 165 and 175 in town or on the highway. it has been like that for a long time. i just installed my AD 165 and on initial start up it warms up to 190 and stays there just like it used to. what in the world would the ad install have to do with engine temp? i have got some road trips to make the next two weeks and will keep and eye on it. i havent seen 190 steady in a long time.

that is back pressure in the exhaust system. a butterfly in the exhaust closes, as in mine just behind the turbo and pretty much turns your engine into an air compressor. thats what slows you down.

it has dropped to 4.07 here at home and i saw it below $4 on I40 east of here towards the coast on the internet.

i got the ad installed and working today. the fuel basket i have is just like the one in AH64ID's photo, except mine did not have the fancy fittings at the top. i just reused the ones molded into the top. I connected everything back in the basket utilizing AD's kit. when i tried to bleed the system of air i got a good stream of fuel for 2 seconds and then got alot fuel air mix. i cycled the pump several times with the same results. i connected to the vp and tried to start the engine with no luck. could not get any fuel to the injectors. thats when i realized i had not installed one of the spring clamps on the fuel pick up properly:doh:. went back to one of my photos and it confirmed what i thought.figued it was sucking air. i had to take the fuel tank back off and install it properly. got it all back together, then it started raining and i had to wait until today to finish. i reinstalled the tank and connected every thing this morning and had the same problem while bleeding. figured i had around 5 or 6 gallons of fuel in the tank. but went and got 8 more just to see what happened. put 4 gallons inthe tank and got a good stream for about 5 or 6 seconds and mor fuel air mix. i put 4 more gallons in and got a steady stream of fuel. i reconnected to the vp and the engines statred on the second attempt. enough about the trials and tribulations of the install, a couple questions for you guys #1 with the ad pumpimg straight into a fuel can does it return any fuel to the tank? thought that could be a source for the air since possibly nothing is going back into the basket. #2 how much fuel does the engine return to the basket? this is another source for air since it returns no fuel if the engine is not running. i have got this 1/4 tank thing in my head and worrying that is my problem. i guess i'll just put a 5gallon can of diesel in the bed and drive and see what happens. i appreciate all of yalls input.

my hiss is at the tail pipe though youcan hear it anywhere arond the truck when it is idling. i do not hear t he hiss when it is in operation at cruising rpms slowing down. no hissing from under the hood either.

sorry to here about your truck. i hate theives as bad as you. someone broke into our house three weeks ago while my wife took her mother out. somewhere between 9:30 and 12 AM in broad open daylight. i would have just shot em and got it over with. had my job trailers broken into thru the years also. i have got no use nor sympathy for a theif. hang em all.

next time you got it running with the brake on see if the hissing is coming out of the tailpipe. thats where i hear it the best though you can here it standing on the drivers side also. i have a banks brake on mine and it is the only eb i have ever had any experience with

in tank pump cost me 1k about 5 years ago. this also before i learned about fuel pressure. i installed a booster pump about a year later when i started having problems. it started again and now i am instlling a ADII 165. i always thought the fass and ad were pricey, but 1,500 bucks will buy you alot better fuel system than that pos in tank. learned and still learning alot here.

satrted my install today. got the tank out, rebuilt the basket, reassembled the tank and it is ready to install. the intank pump is about double the size of a D cell battery. i know size aint every thing but it sure aint impressive, especially when compared to the AD. ther were 2 wires for power to the pump. they were connected with push on connecters. nothing in the instructions dealt with those wires so i just cut them off near the top on the basket where they could not short to anything or each other. they come from a relay mounted on the dash, drivers side. 2 other wire go to the ecm connector near the old pump location. a single wire fused to the battery. there is one more wire (O/R) that goes into the conduit along the frame rail towards the old pump location. if any one knows what that one is please let me know. i am hoping i can get rid of that relay. it looks like it was installed with the intank pump. looks like th new relay and harnes will take care of everything but that O/R. i will have to chase that down tomorrow. got everything else off and hopefully get it all back together tommorow helping hands are a little sparse right now. i took some pix and will post them later.

my eb comes on at every cold start and you here the exhaust gas hissing as it blows by the butterfly. could that be the noise you are hearing?

the better to nuggetize with,

i just drove thru ar and tn last wed. evening and thurs. morning. I40 west bound was closed due to floooding about 70 miles west of memphis. luckily i was headed east back to nc. i started noticing street lights reflecting off of water like a boat dock. cant imagine what it looked like in the day time. the missippi was about 3 times wider than when i when i headed west 7 weeks ago. my heart goes out to all of you out there.

i got a left one from rock auto for 16 bucks. looks just like the right one.

that is correct. though i installed another pump on the frame rail when i found out how low a pressure the in tank put out.

is there a screen in the bottom of the basket or holes to let the fuel in?

my 96 drove just like this one before i fixed it, except no bump steer. you really had to think about a curve in the road and start steering before you got to it. the engine blew up and i traded it before i could have it fixed.

did yur fuel basket have a screen at the bottom or was it solid with the rubber flapper? if it was solid did you drill the holes in the side of the basket the instructions call for? i could see that not letting enoudgh fuel in. --- Update to the previous post... this gets better with every post:ahhh:. to ds or not to ds, that is the question. i thinking of install the fuel pickup strapped to the outside of the basket instead of the inside. seems to me that would esentially give you the same as a draw straw.

the only thing in the near futur for me is a set of RV 275s. the the basket should still provide more fuel than i need. i think i will save my money and install in the basket. it has worked good all these years. i dont see why it wont keep on working.

i replaced every thing in front of the axle excluding the steering box. also replaced all of the ball joints. i dont know which part did the most good, but it steers better than it did new. no more bump steering either. the steering on these trucks reminds me of driving a much bigger truck. i think thats the stiff and laggy feeling you are getting. i guess it is just the nature of the beast we drive. i might try the borgsen steering box one day and see what that does. that one is pretty low on the list for now though.