dripley

I would check for any trouble codes first. Could be fuel or electronics. Do you know what or if any other modifations have been made to the truck? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

let us know. Not sure what happens with the wires crossed.

Did you plug the OE harness into the MAP sensor? If it is the newer sensor I believe you need the little pig tail connector in your photo between the 2. Just a hunch.

Pretty sure it is a difference in years throwing things off. It has bit me before. Since I dont work on others it is hard to know the differences between them. The 01 and 02 share a lot of similarities but still not the same thru the whole 01 run.

That is the data link connector. My comp is plugged into it. Ismthat the Map sensor I see connected right beside it? Or is that the IAT? My 02 came oe with with a MAP they quit making. When I replaced it came with an adapter pigtail. The connetors are all the same shape, oval, but the new senor's pin out is different. The pig tail just makes the pinout match the OE connector. I can still plug the OE harnes into the MAP sensor but wires would be crossed. I should add that the data link connector is not plugged into anything from the factory. There is a purpose for it but l have long forgotten what it is.

I just googled "male 7 pin trailer harness connector" and many are shown at many different suppliers. They are pretty standard. But l have not seen one with the spring door. The female has the spring door on all the ones l have messed with.

Good to hear. Simple are the best.

I did not notice on the ones I got until l got them but the straight ones seem to work fine.

If your fuel pressure while running has not changed i dont fhink that has anything to do with it. If the return fitting on the back of the head is letting air into the fuel system it can most certainly cause hard starts like you are experiencing as can a y other fitting that lets air in.

You might check and see if you have any trouble codes. The truck might be giving you a hint. As far the fuel pressure dropping quick after the prime, if you have needle valve on it just close it a bit. The pressure in fuel system bleeds of almost imediately anyway. The needle valve is just holding pressure between it and the gauge. The more closed it is the slower it it bleeds off. How is the pressure when the truck is running?

Mine are still working just fine. No complaints at all.

I put LED's in my stock housings for back up lights. Went from seeing 3 feet to 30 feet for a few bucks. Well worth the effort.

I would be interested too about the lifting of the shaft. Never heard of that. Mine will only turn about a have turn until bottoms out now. I guess I might have run out of adjustment after 500k. Done it several times over the years.

I ran a secondary pump off of an oil pressure switch for several years. worked fine.

There is one on the clutch. You have to push it in to start.

I definitely understand where you are coming from. I was a bit worried myself after installing LED bulbs, new housings and the color changing bulbs in my turn signals. But it was no problem during the state inspection here in NC.

I have a set of the color changing in mine and just passed inspection with them. I drive in alot of states and all the new cars seem to have the color changing signals. I dont believe they would be doing that if they were not legal in all states since many vehicles dont reside in the same state for their lifetime.

As mentioned earlier you have a leak in the vacuum system. Resealing the vacuum fixes oil leaks. Just start at the pump and follow the line. There are not many to check on an 02 manual truck. Mine broke right where the small vacuum line goes thru the firewall at the drier. Nothing wrong with sealing the pump just might not fix your problem. Go with the BHAF. You want be sorry. Good luck with the work.

Thats what I am thinking. Does not make sense to me to send a 5v reference with no to way to send a signal back. I figure it just grounds that wire to let the ECM know it has pressure so it can take over. Of course this the chicken man explaining wiring. That can be dangerous.

If you just have a wire connection it is just a switch. It is not sender and would not have the 5v signal. My 02 is set up that way, only one wire. When the engine is started and near 6 psi it closes and the ecm takes over using ect and rpm s to show pressure. Does your pressure gauge work? Not sure I have heard of this on an 01 though. @Dieselfuture is yours not a one wire switch? The 02 wiring diagram does show a 3 wire sender but mine and the spare engine wiring harness I have both only have one wire. I will get the spare harness and see if l can find out where it terminates.

This is a job for MOPAR MAN. @Mopar1973Man.

My pillar is bent a little. The pivot point took the brunt of the impact on the bed and the tailgate had a nice half moon in the top.

The mounting hardware on the tailgate is adjustable. I backed into a tree many years ago with the tailgate down. It pushed the bed in on the drivers side at the pivot point. I found a replacement for sale and went to buy it. When l put it on the truck before buying the left side fit the bed but right side stuck out at the top an 1.5" or so. Told the guy l thought the tailgate was bent. It was then l remebered it was most likely my truck. Bought the tailgate, adjusted the hardware and it fits at top and mostly un noticable on botton left. Just food for thought in case you cant get it completely straight.

I would start with the 1488 code first.

You mentioned in your other thread you had made it to step 5 if the diagnostics. I figured you had looked it up on the site here.