jlbayes

Well I mean if you actually look at a converter it is only half billet on the aftermarket units. The back side is welded to the cover lol

Leverage with the vice grips should over come whatever the spring pressure is in the actuator head. I suspect it is just rusted shut or partially open.

It shouldn't matter with how the bus is wired. It does not terminate at a ground point. He would have to disconnect all of the ccd bus network. The pcm and cluster hold the termination resistors. Not arguing either with ya Mike. It is a good thought but with the multiple modules on the ccd bus he will be busy finding them all LOL

Grab it with a pair of vice grips and attempt to rotate it.

Sounds like the waste gate is rusty and not opening.

Sounds like the solenoid relay is sticking on.

I would strongly suggest checking line pressure but it does sound like the converter may be done. You do not have a lock up switch do you???

Check resistance to ground on that circuit using a meter. Key off. Do not have your ground jumper installed.

These came on some 3rd gen wheels I wanted. Only reason I ended up with them. NEVER again.

I will cut you...... My point was the increased inlet pressure was a wasted effort. I had 30psi inlet when I first put my AD II on straight out of the box...... My ADII 165 only had a 1-2psi pressure drop with my strung out vp setup. About 200hp over yours. I have no idea why it worked so well. @rogerash0 the "snuffing" you are referring to is actually cavitation when the pump is attempting to slow down and the fuel is cut off. You are the first I have seen state they have remedied it with high inlet pressure. Be very careful dumping off the throttle like that (I know it is not always as simple as it sound). It can shear the cam ring pin. Dead vp afterwards.

@rogerash0 there is a fuel flow diagram floating around here or the interwebs showing the internal vane pump. It over rules whatever you try to feed into the vp. Quit trying to get me all riled up @TFaoro

I cannot as it is still not done. It has snowballed fast since I went to compounds. Almost makes me want to slap a single charger on it and enjoy the truck. Horse power is a ton of work. I do only from the aspect of longevity. Perceived high inlet pressure will not gain you anything in the hp department with a vp. @TFaoro you mean those clowns over at PDD that do not have an original thought in their heads? Copy and steal everything they can find. The only thing they know how to do is capitalize on others hard work. U.C.C. proved that. LOLOLOLOL

Don't you even start with that apps and tps bs...... Sensor is on the top of the rear axle.

This was most definitely building pressure in the cooling system. Darn near had the lower rad hose pushed off. Oh and found a bunch of trash in the coolant bottle after I drained it yesterday. She's hurt. I have a ton of money wrapped up in my swap but it works without fail. Schied is a good option as well as Haisley. Crazy carls sells a kit but the case's were aftermarket. Idk if he has switched back yet or not. Best way is to buy a worn out engine and use the majority of parts. Buy the injection lines, apps kit and potentially the cam sensor adapter if 01-02. I highly recommend an adjustable gear as well. I did the swap for power. Straight up. And it delivers. There has not been a vp truck around here that will touch it. Cruising egts never changed nor did fuel mileage. WOT did but that was related to pump setup. When this thing cooperates it is a monster. I couple buddies were in it last year before it bent the pushrods and were speechless after. One had the shakes after we got back.

Ride like trash. Spin in the rain with a 180hp 12v driving them....work great in the snow though.

That is not vss. That is oss.

No, rear axle.

Whatever y'all do...DO NOT buy duratracs. Do y'all wanna buy some duratracs!?!?

It appears they are shorted together or the bus goes idle at the point of the gauges messing up.

Look in the MOPAR catalog some time and how many keyway options there are.

The stock horn is not the restriction in the system, the valves are. The vp heads also have a hump that blocks flow into the shelf. Never have seen a solid reason to change to another elbow other than propaganda. The breather seems to be working fine. This engine is just wore out and needs a rebuild. It has oil vapor coming out most all the time. Stinky sitting in traffic but rolling down the road she is happy. I wanted more power than the vp could reliably or sensibly get to. Even with the first 12mm 180hp pump it was a night and day change. Low end smoke was nearly gone. Throttle response was better. It also made 70ft lbs more torque on the dyno. Same setup other than the pump, same dyno as well. I was a bit surprised. The 180 was never dialed into full potential. Too busy fighting other stuff on the truck. That brings me to my adventure Saturday with it. After the abysmal failure on the dyno a couple weeks ago I decided to go hunting on what was wrong. After talking with a couple people I came to the conclusion I needed to check tdc and the crank gear. A buddy and I stripped the front cover off and all that was happy. No slipped gear and set tdc with a mark on the balancer for later use. While doing so I happened to notice the lower radiator hose appeared to slidding off the end of the nipple. The clamp was displaced. Odd as it was I adjusted the clamp......well as soon as I released tension on the spring clamp coolant spat out of the lower hose. YAYYYYY......grabbed the hose...hard as a rock....so I grabbed the upper. Same thing. Granted at this point the truck had not been run in over 6 hours. So it is time for another head gasket and better studs. From the dyno day.

You aren't using stall of the converter at that point. It is not even remotely close to the same as what I asked him to do.

Just me a dozen others that had already caught on. I like Nicks suggestion. There is something about the replacing pumps and they never seem to deliver after.

Been trying to get y'all to understand this for YEARS lol.

I should list what I had at the time. Tst pm3, Smarty w/revo, 7x.010s, he351cw. No matter what I did with the smarty it would surge but cruise was the worst.