jlbayes
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Everything posted by jlbayes
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Air separation is a HUGE farce that should not be carried into any decision for a fuel system. Stop it. -
Friggin kids. Oh I snagged a stainless diesel t3 manifold last night. Got some fuel system components over the last couple of days. Will be getting disc 70 this weekend. Gone be busy. I suppose I should say what the plans are for this turd for performance. Goal is 650hp driver/tow machine. I have set of injectors from Infinite that he twisted my arm on to build. I will be using an hx35 for a secondary. Primary will likely be a s476/87. Trans will be a pretty standard build. Goerends triple disc and valve body. TCS billet little pieces. I have a TCS billet drum and fancy band from monster pump Mike. Billet input & output. Should work very well all done. I am going to swap in a newer front axle with 3rd brakes. This single piston caliper bs is for the birds.
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Sort of. Truck originally did not have fog lights. I cut out the area to allow fitment.
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I always loved that response. Hope it gets taken care of.
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This is why. Every vp 24v head is cast the same way. The valves are the next stop. Port size is pretty spot on in a 24v head for most applications.
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It does have a 2" coil in the front from a previous owner that will be coming out shortly when I swap axles. They rub ever so slightly on the back of the fender due to the control arms not being long enough.
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I have talked to dozens of people about swaps. Who knows at this point LOL
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HAAAAA. Someone asked about a horn before. Thought it was you. Maybe not who I told the 12v horn to. Oops.
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4 but 2 are the dedicated sets. The chrome 20s went on due to a hole in the side wall the day I had all the fence posts in the bed. The first pictures with the black 16s and 35s were sold shortly after acquiring the truck.
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Possible lower egts at wot with the hx. Hy will be lower at cruise due to more shaft power from the smaller housing.
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https://www.google.com/search?q=1%2F8th+inch+brass+tee&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS753US754&oq=1%2F8th+inch+brass+tee&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l3.10478j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
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That was the short version lol. I have compounds and a built transmission in the works. Those are gear big block 20x10 with -19mm offset. Nitto 420 305/50r/20 tires. They ride, grip and handle unbelievably well even on a 6k+ truck.
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Sorry I'll go back to my corner.
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Not at all. A buddy has one on his ppump 24v so I know it works. Been pushing it at Tyler for some time but he no listen.
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The cover retention is a vband with a bolt on hot side. That screams k series turbo. Measure the compressor wheel. That looks like a k31.
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Do not believe any of the published videos for airdog or fass. They are nothing but propaganda.
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I've had this truck for about a year now. Ups and downs like every 2nd gen but overall I am very happy with this truck. Prepare for picture overload. Quick run down. A buddy posted this truck for sale on fb the day before the transmission decided to die in my grand prix (shocker). I bought this as to be a dd/tow rig when needed. The truck is originally from Texas and moved around a bit. I did find the owner on fb that brought the truck up to Indiana/Michigan and he provided some history on it. The box was trashed from day one. The owner I bought it from did not own up to rolling the truck onto it's side which cause bed damage and some door push in at the bottom. Nothing too crazy on the cab, door or fend. Box took the most of it. The engine, transmission and tcase are of unknown origin as Kurt (guy who brought it up to the north) sold it as a roller. It is a 180hp engine, 47re and DHD tcase. No clue how they found the correct drivetrain to stick back in it but they did. Lucky me. From day one this truck was weak. Even for a stock 12v. Ended up being the injection pump yayyyyyy. I got lucky and found a 180hp pump that had been gone through. Runs pretty well now. I will be going through the transmission to support my needs and have most of the parts already. Replacement/fixed stuff I have gone through; front brakes, ball joints, axle joints, track back, steering linkage, steering box, transfer case, front main seal, gauge wiring, dtt voltage box removal & wiring repair, thermostat, a/c line, water pump, stainless flex lines, led lights through out, projector retrofits, double din stereo, recovered head liner, 5% tint, two sets of wheels & tires and I think that is it. I am getting ready to do an axle swap to get better brakes as the single piston calipers are a JOKE. Now for the pictures and I'll try to get them in order.
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It would be great if they actually rated the pumps by what they flow at pressure through the filters. Most of you would cry.
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Literally 100% depends on how far you want to push it. Both have made over 800hp to the wheels.
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Someone has been in the transmission before. That looks like a goerends converter.
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The heat in the head and from pressurization in the injection pump will put more temperature in the fuel than any silly little heater you put in the pump or filter housing. I park in a covered open awning. No wind block. Unless you have a webasto heater you are doing jack squat to warm the fuel mass in the tank.
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You are hearing the timing and pressure differences between the pumps.
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Pusher 12v horn.
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A fuel heater is going to do absolutely nothing for the fuel in the tank. Do whatever you want but that little tid bit negates the fuel heater in the bowl or on the lift pump.
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Pilot, whatever stand you buy...use the side of the engine to mount it (engine mount bolt boss'). Do not use the bell housing. Much more stable that way.
