Tractorman

The belt chirping is normal and the cause is the high speed rotating mass of the alternator rotor being forced to an abrupt stop. As alternator capacity has grown significantly over the years this symptom and worse symptoms for long stroke four cylinder engines and some six cylinder engines (especially diesel engines) have cropped up. For many long stroke four cylinder engines there was excessive belt movement while the engine was idling. A one-way clutch (de-coupler) pulley for the alternator was introduced in the late nineties for some four cylinder Chrysler vehicles. This de-coupler eliminates the tug of war on the serpentine belt at low engine speeds and allows the alternator rotor (not the pulley) to free wheel when the engine is shut off. It was an eye opener for me on my wie's 2006 New Beetle TDI. I didn't know about the de-coupler pulley back then and I unnecessarily replaced a belt tensioner because of engine noises, intermittent brief losses of power steering, and a serpentine belt that looked like it was wanting to leave the premise while the engine was idling. It turned out that the alternator de-coupler pulley locked up and was behaving like a solid pulley. I replaced the de-coupler pulley and the belt ran as smooth as glass, the engine became quiet at idle again, and the brief loss of power steering gone. I believe starting in late 2006, the Cummins engines use a de-coupler pulley on the alternator. I know there is one on my son-in-law's '06 and a friend of mine's '07. There is no belt chirp on these trucks because the alternator rotor can free wheel when engine is shut down. - John

How did you test this pump? Did you test with a fuel gauge at the VP44 inlet? I am assuming that you had to drop the tank to replace the in-tank lift pump. Air would have been introduced into the fuel system during this repair. Did you verify with a gauge that the new lift pump was working before you started the engine? Also, did you use the "bump starter" method several times to run the lift pump for 20 seconds at a time to purge out air before you started the engine? If you have done none of the above then you have not verified that the new lift pump is working properly. Even if it is working properly, the air introduced during the repair may now be in the high pressure injector lines. This air would will have to be vented by loosening some injector lines at the head while the engine is being cranked over. - John

A couple of weeks ago looking out my window, - John

This is good information. I don't think the problem lies in the following: * pilot bearing (since it is not in operation with clutch pedal released) * clutch release bearing ( if it made that kind of noise, I would think that you would hear other release bearing noises when operating the clutch pedal) * transmission (fourth gear on a five speed is the 1:1 gear, so the counter shaft is not loaded) Things I would check: * carrier bearing - you can drive the truck for a bit and then stop and feel the bearing (carefully) for excessive heat. As mentioned earlier, if the bearing is making that kind of noise it will usually spin the outer part of the bearing inside the rubber mount. * anything belt driven - remove the serpentine belt and check all pulleys. Pay special attention to the fan pulley. * transfer case - if I recall, you have replaced it recently. Check that the shift lever linkage is in proper position for each selection. Just some thoughts, - John

More information would really help forum members to help you. Can you provide any of the following information? * What gear were you in? * What was the road speed? * What was the engine rpm * Were you stopped, accelerating, decelerating? * Where did the sound come from? * Were the conditions the same each time it happened? These are a few things that only you know that could help with diagnosis. - John

Typically, the maximum back pressure generated by the use of the exhaust brake is about 60 psi and exhaust manifold temperature will stay well under 500 degrees no matter the length of time used. I don't think there is anything to be concerned about. I have been using an exhaust brake for over 300,000 miles and I still have the original exhaust manifold setup. I use this exhaust brake many, many times per trip on every trip. I am sure they can, but I think it would be a preference, not a need. - John

I have a similar setup, but I am using a FASS frame mounted lift pump with a Napa 3270 screen on the inlet side. This fuel screen is 140 micron rated, significantly more coarse than your Wix 33007 50 micron filter. Your filter would be very easy to replace with the Napa 3270 screen and it just might fix your problem. - John

@Dieselfuture, I apologize for my dry sense of humor. I did know what you meant and actually I am in the same boat with my 2002 truck. I will also be checking my potential KDP when it is becomes necessary. Of course, we could schedule replacing the seal as a maintenance item instead of waiting for failure (oops, there goes my humor again).. After all, it's not like we haven't gotten the miles out of the seal. - John

Maybe the KDP will fall out and make it leak sooner, then your wish would be granted. Of course, then there might be other minor things to repair as well. - John

I have been manually operating my grid heaters with a momentary switch that switches both on at the same time since December of 2001, and for 307,000 miles. If there were to be any negative side effects, I think they would have surfaced by now. I like the fact that I am still using my original Bosch alternator with only one brush and bearing set replacement and that replacement was done as a maintenance procedure at 216,000 miles - not as a failure. So, @Dieselfuture, I would not be concerned. Curiosity finally got the best of me, so I did an experiment today. I wired my grid heaters back to factory (I know - sounds crazy). I used two test lights simultaneously at each grid heater positive terminal (heavy wire connection at the grid heater). I performed the following tests with ambient temperature in the shop at 50 degrees: 1. Key switch on, Wait to Start light on. The test lights did not light. I then realized that I am using the IAT Fooler, so that made sense. I am certain that both test lights would have lit had the IAT circuit been returned to OEM wiring since that is how they worked before I added my momentary switch modification. This isn't the part that I was curious about, anyway. 2. Start engine after Wait to Start light goes out. Both test lights lit and stayed lit for about 15 seconds. One light dropped out and the other light dropped out about 5 seconds later. After a few seconds one test light turned on for about 5 seconds and then turned off. Another 5 or ten second passed and the other test light turned for about 5 seconds and then turned off. This cycle kept repeating itself. Of course, because I am not crazy, I put my momentary switch back into operation. Also, just for curiosity, I have checked a 2003 truck and a 2006 truck - they both use one relay to operate both grid heaters simultaneously. They cannot be operated independently. I thought that was interesting. - John

@AH64ID, congratulations on your new ride! At some point down the road could you let me know what you think of the OEM headlights on your new truck? Daniel Stern (of Daniel Stern Lighting) recommends converting older 4th generation reflector style OEM headlights to the newer projector style OEM headlights - your year of truck was mentioned. I would like to get your opinion. Thank you in advance, - John

I can't say whether or not a 6.7 viscous damper will work on an 02, but I have read that engine OEM dampers that have replaced with the 6.7 viscous damper, it is necessary to remove the damper when replacing the serpentine belt. You may want to check that out if it matters to you. I have the Fluidampr on my truck ( 4 years and 90,000 miles) and no need to remove it when changing the belt. For me the Fluidampr works as advertised and there have been no issues. - John

To rephrase what @Mopar1973Man is saying: 10 mv AC, 30 mv AC, 50 mv AC, and 100 mv AC would be saying the same thing as .010 v AC, .030 v AC, .050 v AC, and .100 v AC respectively. So, if @2001white's meter is showing .57 mv, that would be the same as .00057 v AC. That seems a bit off the scale to me, but I may not be reading his meter correctly. - John If this isn't confusing enough, let me know so that I can make it more confusing.

Don't rule out a boost leak. I have heard boost leaks that have a reed sound (like in a musical instrument). In two cases the cause was a broken hose clamp and the reed-like sound was coming from the vibrating hose end under certain boost conditions. Some of the symptoms you have described could match that of a boost leak. - John

Your perseverance in tracking down the correct solution without getting sidetracked is nothing short of amazing! Excellent troubleshooting! And thank you for the clarity in explaining your diagnostic steps along the way. - John

A few years ago I installed a Borgeson steering shaft and a Borgeson steering box and no modifications were necessary. From what I recall, if a Borgeson box was installed on an OEM shaft, then a flat spot needed to be ground on the adapter that came with the Borgeson steering box (no grinding on the steering box input shaft). Do you have an OEM steering box with the flat spot on the shaft? If so, I think you can just install the Borgeson steering shaft. Note: Check the operation of the slip yoke on the Borgeson shaft before installation. It must slide easily! If it does not you will have hard to diagnose steering problems and set screws will come loose. Believe me, this is true - it took me 25,000 miles of driving to figure it out. - John

I believe a standard 9004 bulb is 45/65 watts. I never thought that a non-relayed headlight circuit accompanied with long runs of undersized wiring and topped off with a super powerful 45 watt low beam bulb was a very bright idea to light up the road. - John

This has been an interesting read. @pepsi71ocean, I agree with @Mopar1973Man in that timing rattle is easily detected audibly when timing is advanced with the Smarty S03 to the T3 and especially the T4 setting. The difference doesn't seem to be noticeable at idle, but once you get moving it is very noticeable, even after the engine has reached operating temperature. It is most noticeable (and annoying) under light to moderate throttle. Over the years I have done a few things to help quiet engine noise and as a result I can easily hear excessive timing rattle. When I had my stock injectors I ran timing at T1, and now with the RV275's I have experimented and it looks like I will stay with T2. With T2, performance and fuel economy are good with no timing rattle. In about two weeks I will be taking the travel trailer to Crescent City - this will be the first long towing trip (GCVW at 12,500 lbs) with the RV275 injectors. - John

You will have to set me straight here. I have a 20 foot tilt-deck trailer rated at 14,000 lbs GVWR. It's empty weight is about 3,000 lbs (maybe 3,500 lbs max). Are you saying your trailer weights 7,000 lbs empty? - John

A new market - Headlight Heaters! Maybe a low wattage incandescent bulb will make its way back into the headlight housing to melt snow and ice. That would be funny. - John

I drove mine for over a year and 23,000 miles with the 0216 code. The problem started at 64,000 miles on the OEM pump and as time went on the engine went into limp mode more frequently and finally on every trip. But, I learned how to drive around the limp mode feature until I got the VP44 pump replaced. As @JAG1 mentions, two-stroke oil may help you along with a warm up in weather, at least until you can budget for a replacement VP44. - John

My original OEM headlights were singe bulb (9004) with the fluted lens. I relayed those light right away so I could get my 45 watt's worth on low beam and I drove the truck for a few years until the lenses began to discolor and get cloudy. Then, for three or four years I tried different junk internet lights. I confirmed they were junk. Finally, in 2016 (50,000 miles ago), I installed my current sport headlights with aftermarket housings and clear lenses. There is room for improvement, but with Danie Stern's recommended halogen bulbs, they work far better than any previous headlight. Last summer I was able to locate and install a new (the last one in the U.S., I think) OEM right sport headlight housing and lens - I cannot find an OEM left one. Because the optics in the sport headlights that I have (one being an OEM) are satisfactory and do put light on the road where it should be, I am interested in finding an LED bulb that will be an improvement and give me a few more years with my current headlight housings and lenses. - John

I have been watching and reading about the LED after market headlight bulbs for a few years now. Up until very recently there had been no attempt to build an LED bulb to mimic the properties of a halogen filament bulb and that is why the light is scattered so badly - and it doesn't matter whether you have reflector housings or projector housings. There have been some significant improvements with LED bulbs just within the past year and some manufacturers are paying attention to the optics and as a result there are some much improved LED bulbs on the market. Some work better in projector housings and some are better with reflector housings. The LED bulb may have a ways to go, but in my opinion they are improving rapidly. The 9007 LED bulb that I am using currently has not received a single flash from oncoming traffic while on low beam and there have been plenty of opportunities for it to happen. If I would have been flashed even just two or three times, I would have removed them and put the halogens back in. - John

Interesting timing. I also have been running halogen bulbs in a sport headlight setup. I just installed the Hikari standard LED 9007 bulbs. The light beam was actually better than I expected and doesn't interfere with oncoming traffic, but I had to change an o-ring size to take up the slack in the adjuster part of the bulb assembly - the weight of the wiring was rotating the bulb so it would not stay in position. My sport headlights are wired in the OEM manner, are yours wired the same way? Also, did you have any issues with the rotational adjustment on the new LED's? Another more expensive LED version (called SNGL) I am considering has two adjustments - in and out and rotational. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjjvcj95pngAhWPGDQIHVy0AD4QFjAAegQIChAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FSNGL-Super-Bright-Headlight-Conversion%2Fdp%2FB01M7RR05J&usg=AOvVaw1yc3Q7VyWmkusiKNlzYf5D - John

From Daniel Stern Lighting a couple of years ago, The best 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the GE Night Hawk Xenon 9007NHX or the Philips Xtreme Vision 9007XVS2 The best 9004 bulbs presently on the market are the GE Night Hawk Platnium 9004NHP or Philips Xtreme Vision 9004XVS2 - John