LiveOak

Smokey, I understand what you are saying and in normal times of sanity I would whole heartedly agree. Within a few years, I think the price of an oil change and filter will leave you and I speechless and dumbfounded. This is one reason why I am looking at these bypass centrifugal filters. $675 is kinda steep. I am still looking to find another source but it looks like they are the only game in town.

Price is in the stratosphere at $1495 and my truck's engine will NEVER see 4,000 rpm much less 3,200 rpm. My set up make more power than the clutch can hold and is very reliable and no liability waiver must be signed to buy it.

I am looking at both but the Fast Coolers are $125 vs. $239.95 for the Trans-Coolers. Anyone one using these. I would appreciate hearing about how both of these work, your likes and dislikes, and recommendations. Thanks!

If the truck will not restart, my money is on the "you ran out of fuel" option. The fuel sending units in these fuel tanks are NOTORIOUS for giving HUGELY inaccurate indications. I suggest you try filling the fuel tank with 10 or more gallons of diesel fuel. Bleed the fuel system upto and INCLUDING the fuel injectors (you can bleed the first 2 or 3 injectors which is not the shop book option but will get the truck started. (injector 5 and 6 are a muther jumper to get to and bleed) Then try starting your truck. The truck, when it starts is NOT gonna be happy about running on 2 or 3 cylinders but this will not harm anything. Keep your rpms up around 1,500 to 2,000 rpm until the engine smooths out and runs smooth and clean. It should idle and run fine after that. If you have some questions about bleeding the fuel system....... I can post a simplified but somewhat messy procedure for you.

How much fuel did you have in the tank? Or I should ask, how much fuel was the fuel gauge showing in the tank?

Another thing that will help out alot is to install some "Winter Fronts" on the grill. They will hold in the heat the block heater produces much better and help the engine to develop and hold the heat it produces driving down the road. These are what I install on both of our trucks: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/cgi-bin/classifieds2/classifieds.cgi?session_key=&search_and_display_db_button=on&db_id=27646&query=retrieval So far, they have worked and held up well. I have been using them for about 4 years. They are a LOT easier to install and remove than the cloth type Winter grill fronts in my opinion.

I bought an Ingraham Heavy Duty timer at Walmart that handles up to 1875 watts a few year ago. It is the manual type that has little flip switches to set the on and off time. I guess they no longer make them and most are now digital solid state. Below is an example of one I found. You can probably find them cheaper at your local Walmart or hardware store. http://www.thehomesecuritysuperstore.com/security-lighting-programmable-random-timer-GPS-p=2297 http://firstratesecurity.com/elsetiti.html http://www.opentip.com/Sporting-Goods/Ge-Hour-Timer-Pk-p-1053537.html

No, other than wasting a lot of electricity. It has been my experience that 4 hours of being plugged in will warm up the engine to the max. the block heater can. Timers are pretty cheap.

The Carter pumps are JUNK. Some last, some are bad right out of the box on rare ocassion. VERY few last for any reasonable amount of time and they deliver marjinal pressure. Install a guage. They are just not worth using to feed a $1,000 injector pump in my opinion.

A friend had a 53 block in his 99 truck. I ran fine for about 8 years and then crapped out. Put on a nice steam show on the interstate while he was pulling a load. Cummins offered to split the cost of replacing the block but he found a new block on eBay and did it himself instead. It was a LOT of work for him but he has a top knotch truck now. Some 53 blocks run forever......others are on borrowed time. You never know until you see the coolant leaking out or notice your coolant reservoir needing constant topping off.

Hey, I understand that. The youngin's come first. Just a bit of advice on the when you get the Airtex pump. The pump will come with a 90 elbow tube that slips over the end of the pump. DO NOT put it on until you are sure you will need it. It IS used in the OEM stock location though. Once the elbow tube is slid on and snaps in place, it requires a special tool to remove it. As me how I know? :banghead:

You might try plugging the block heater on the engine in and plug the extension cord into a timer that is set to turn on and power the block heater about 4 hours before your start the engine to leave for work. This should give you a big head start on warming the engine up AND it will be a BIG relief for your truck batteries as the block heater will warm up the engine and intake manifold where the IAT sensor is located to a temp above 60 degrees which will preclude the grid heaters coming on when you turn on the ignition switch.

Sounds like you did not mail in the life time warranty card that came with the pump? Like so many other folks do.........I almost forgot to mail mine in myself. NOTE TO SELF and Joe...........as soon as you get the Air Dog 150........open the box up, take out the life time warranty card and mail it in IMMEDIATELY. There is a 15 calendar day time limit after purchase grace period to mail in the life time warranty card. If you don't.........then the unit is covered by a 1 year ONLY warranty.

These centerfuges DO work and work VERY well. I remember back to my days as an MTP and AVIM aviation maintenance officer that we used a much larger version of these centerfuges to purify hydraulic oil for the CH-47D helicopter hydraulic systems. It was required to run oil DIRECTLY out of a new can of oil through the centerfuge to purify it before it could be used in the aircraft. Periodically, the entire hydraulic systems with purified using these things as well. If these centerfuges can clean the oil in our crankcases even half that good without using filter cartridges or other filter material, that would be much easier to clean and maintain. Cummins equips some of their engines with these centerfuge bypass filters on their larger engines. I have a Frantz filter kit but still have some misgivings about toilet paper anywhere near the oil lubrication system in my beloved Cummins engine. I saw a guy over on "the other" forum who had one installed on his truck and liked it. I started to reply and ask him but I just cannot bring myself to support that forum any longer.

The Raptor is a good pump but at $365 you may as well pay the extra $135 and get the full Air Dog 150 or 165 and get full benefit of the fuel de-aeration, water separation, and 2-3 micron fuel filter in my opinion especially if you are going to make any type of engine performance modifications.

$675 for the entire installation kit: http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/lev1/904/divId/78/Buy.Now!?process=prodList&category_id=1

I was looking at one of these: http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/div/divid/78/Pickup.Trucks and wondering if anyone here is using one and what their experiences have been with it? Thanks!

About 2 years ago, I bought a 2001.5 truck for the wife. Her's is stock. The lift pump was shot on it when I bought it. Same situation as yours. I installed an Airtex E 7153 lift pump on it initially in the OEM stock location on that driver's side of the engine. It ran fine, made good fuel pressure, and was problem free. http://www.autopartsexpress.com/searchitem.epc?lookfor=E7153 To make it easy for her to monitor fuel pressure, I installed a fuel pressure guage on the steering column. It just slips over top of the existing steering wheel column and used 3M double stick tape. I left the tape off so I could easily remove it. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tester-with-Schrader-Connection-p/scp.htm I installed this gauge in the 0-30 psi version in the gauge pod. Works like a champ. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ISSPRO-EV-fuel-pressure-Kit-p/issfp.htm Later on I decided to install the Air Dog 150 on my truck so we removed the Vulcan Big Line Lift Pump Relocation Kit: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm from my truck and installed it on hers. This allowed us to relocate the new lift pump from the stock OEM location to the frame just below the fuel tank and also made it very easy to tap into the fuel system and plumb up the fuel pressure gauge. The Airtex pump made about 17 psi in the OEM location and about 19 psi relocated to the frame rail at IDLE. During regular driving with a clean fuel filter it will pull the pressure down to about 12 psi but usually stays in the range of about 13 - 17 psi. It also held pressure better and longer on hard pulls relocated under the fuel tank on the frame rail. If money is in short supply and you need a reliable and reasonably priced lift pump that you can easily replace (read drop in place of the old lift pump) get the Airtex E7153 pump. The Airtex E7153 is a good & reliable lift pump for a STOCK engine that does not tow or pull really heavy. It is NOT even in the same league and the Air Dog or FASS or other higher performance pumps. It IS a very economical and reliable replacement lift pump. Hope this helps.

So what kind of work did those Truck U guys do on your truck Caj?

VERY nice looking bull. Congratulations! How did you get him packed out??? That looks like at least 700 - 900 lbs. of animal. What did you take him with?

Agreed. Another thing to keep in mind is that the warranty does NOT apply if you did not register the pump for the lifetime warranty when you bought it. I belive it must be registered within the first 30 days or something like that. Otherwise it is a 2 year warranty and then you are on your own.

Wow! Really sorry to hear about your truck. I think I would keep the truck, take the $7500 and keep on driving it. Later on you may be able to replace the fenders and panels that are removable and body work the rest. Even with the body work, paint, and all, I think you would come out ahead. You may even come across a donor truck that has a blow engine or similar problem that you can either swap into or salvidge parts. My truck got caught in a bad hail storm last summer and got a few dings in it too. Not near as bad as yours, I just kept on driving it. Like you, I have a LOT of work and time in mods on my truck and love it. A few dents just add some charactor I suppose.

Happy birthday Mike! Best wishes for a happy and joyous occasion to mark yet another passage in time that we all hate to acknowledge. 40 is just getting warmed up.

I have the lifetime road hazard warranty with lifetime balance at Walmart on both truck's tires. The problem is that the guys working in the Walmart garage are not very experienced and in a number of cases, I had to point out to them that their tire balance machines were NOT bolted to the floor AND the calibration label date was expired. Large size Light Truck tires come with a blue dot on the tire sidewall. This blue is supposed to be aligned with the valve stem to minimize the amount of tire weights to balance the tire. I get the deer in the headlights look when I bring this point up to the Walmart folks. When I first purchased my tires from Walmart. It took about 4 attempts for them to acceptably balance my tires. I finally had to resort to printing out a tire mounting and balance recommended procedure put out by BF Goodrich and bring it to them. The tire balance machine in the configuration Walmart used will only balance the tire to about 60 -65 mph. The balance beads are the way to go in my opinion.

Should have given me a heads up for a stop by the farm. I am about 80 miles southeast of Jackson and about 100 miles southwest of Nashville. Bring your ATV and I can show you around the place.